I turned the carb 180* and it works great with cable and air cleaner. I also wired my efans through an 80 amp relay and a Volvo controller to switch from low to high, depending on coolant temp. Tomorrow i,ll run the zf5 driveshaft to the shop. The speedo cable from the c6 bolted right up.love that.

I did the initial valve adjustment and spun the oil pump until I got oil to all rockers. I still need to run new brake line, bench bleed the master, bend and install new hard lines to the front wheels, install the adjustable proportion valve, install the efan, insulate the floor of the cab, new carpet, fill the trans with fluid, install 3 point belts for the first time, and hook up new ghetto blaster speakers to amp.

there is a cross member at the front of trans. Do I need it?

 

Hopefully you don't run into any issues from fuel slosh on acceleration.


Yes you need that crossmember on a 2wd truck. That crossmember keeps the frame from twisting & cracking at the strut rod/radius arm mounts and the front cab mount frame brackets.

 

Thanks, Fordman. I mounted my coil on the inside fender, and moved it away from the fender for air cooling, if that is even needed.



I primed the oil system and dropped in the dizzy.



I'm using the NiCop brake lines and love them. It is so much easier to use than the old steel lines. You can see in the photo that I had to do away with the oe rag joint for the steering. I went with U joint due to alignment. My bracing of the frame moved the s.box about 1/4" toward the passenger side of the truck, making the rag joint impossible to install. All good.

 

is that holley turned around backwards? gonna pull fuel away from jets on a hard accel up a hill. If you insist on keeping that way and have issues, there are main jet extensions available.

 

For now it'll stay that way. The t.cable works so much better that way ... but we'll see. If issues arise, I'll search for the extensions.

It feels very good to see how the engine compartment is cleaned up. I had SuperDuty lines to my hydroboost before, and they draped across the compartment. It looks so much cleaner with the braided lines. With the huge Hedman header gone on the passenger side, it is as though I've reclaimed that space. I also cleaned up the fan wiring, replacing two relays for one. Half the wires.

My 80 amp continuous use relay:



Of course I added a Volvo fan relay pack that controls a two speed e-fan, switching on, then from low to high should the temp of the engine coolant warrant high cooling. It also turns off low as it switched to high. A great bargain in the j/y for $10!! I had my Contour/Mystique dual fans wired to always start on high. The current surge would make my msd stutter. No more.



I ended up using my oe p/s pulley. It came with a .685 shaft, and I had to bore it to .747 to fit the big ol' Saginaw pump, but I could not find that bore with the offset I needed.



In the photo below you can see that the V belt groove is almost directly above the pulley puller lip. It might have a bit of a wobble, but if the belt stays on ... hey, good enough is just that. (Why didn't I paint that pulley?)



In the photo below you can see that the pulley has a very different offset than the one I'm using. I also tried to take a such a pulley as you see below and heat a ring around the attachment snout with a torch until glowing red, and hammer it flat. I thought that might make it correct offset. But ... major wobble of course.

Attachment 283888

BTW: I have a Dana 60 and can't remove the yoke nut. Now with me on top of a breaker bar and bouncing up and down, and I weigh 180lbs. I also tried to heat it. Zip. Does anyone have a bright idea?

 

is the truck 4x4? Assuming your talking rear axle.

if so use the truck. Put her in 4x4

Remove rear drive shaft, put breaker bar on pinion nut facing passenger side leaf spring with an extension (i use a floor jack handle) Position as tight to bottom side of leaf spring as possible.
Double check the contact once u move forward a bit, and ensure socket is engaged on nut fully.

Place truck in drive and ease forward... should do the trick....always did for me


edit...looking at pictures above looks like a 2wd.

Do the same but have someone pull you

 

Ha! that's a great system! I have to remember that. Unfortunately, I have no drive shaft as of yet, nor is the truck running.

 

After watching some youtube videos, I took a 4' piece of heavy scrap steel and drilled holes in it so I could bolt it to the yoke. I cut a hole for my socket to clear. Then I used a cheater bar on my breaker bar to remove the nut.

 

Been following the build, excited to see it on the road! How'd you polish the valve covers, they look great. As far as the yoke nut.... I assume if you can stand on the breaker bar, then you could put a jack under it? I ASSUME the truck has a little more meat on her bones than you do. Having said that, standard rules apply, do an osha double take and engage the safety squints. Something's bound to give. ...that sounds like terrible advice, use at your own risk.

 

The valve cover is a Clifford cast aluminum I bought on ebay. I stripped the paint off and had it polished by a shop. The lifter cover I had chromed.

 

I thought it looked awful shiny. As good as that looks I think I'm going to be lazy and paint mine after I hammer it flattish. Edges look like the seam on a chewing gum wrapper

 

This thread had become a giant, sprawling thread that covers many aspects of the install as well as the engine.
I thought I'd have the project finished today, but ran into another snag. Imagine that, right? When I welded up the cracked frame around the steering box, the box got moved about 1/2" to the passenger side. To cope with the misalignment I purchased a steering U joint. However, I didn't realize that the U joint would have worked had there been an angle from box attachment shaft to steering column shaft. There is not an angle. The shafts run parallel, but are 1/2" misaligned. That means a double U joint that flexes in two places. Of course getting one with a double flex/pivot means added length. The added length means it won't fit in the space I have. Isn't this fun?

This is what I have: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/brg-013434
This is what I need: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/brg-023434/overview/

 

Tried to fire it up. Holley carb sat dry for 3 months. It dribbled fuel everywhere. My bad. Rebuild it today.

 

I've had a carb sit for much, much longer than that (one for a year or more) and didn't have to rebuild it.
It's usually just a fuel bowl gasket(s) that needs to be replaced. Or an extra 1/8th turn on the fuel bowl bolts to snug it up.

What fuel bowl bolt gaskets do you have? I'm a big fan of the reusable nylon ones. Same goes for the needle and seat gaskets.

(Order 8)
https://allcarbs.com/product/holley-...ylon-reusable/

(Order 2)
https://allcarbs.com/product/non-sti...at-gasket-set/

Once I got those, I never had to replace them again.

 

That's a Holley. If they sit they leak. Rebuild it and get that bad boy fired up!