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I was able to monitor some fuel data while trying to crank, Im getting .18v-.20v on the ICP, it looks like the pump is moving the fuel OK. The pump is starting to gurgle again. Ive tried cranking it for 30 seconds then letting it sit twice, Ill keep going on that for a little bit and see if its the air. My dad has suggested seeing if the flywheel is engaged with the starter so Im about to go check that. He said he can see the belt turning tho so Im thinking the flywheel is fine.
One thought I did have, I had to have my truck towed home from a friends house when it broke down. Im wondering if maybe they did something wrong and damaged the transmission? Kinda doubtful on that but Im just trying to make sure I think of everything.
Can someone go into further detail on cleaning the IPR please?
Here you go... A lot of us are following this adventure and hope that you find the answer soon.
Thank you much, yeah Im hoping the same thing haha. Gotten pretty good at the army crawl though. . .
Do you know what size the O rings are? Ive got a box of assorted sizes, its OK to use those right? I dont think they mentioned them in the video. And on that smallest pin deal, does it need to go back a certain way? And while I am disassembling this is there any way to tell if its just shot? Im gonna go try to crank it a few times and if it doesnt turn over Ill pull the IPR
I noticed while looking at my IPR valve that there was another plug that looked just like the one plugged into the IPR sitting in the valley, how can I tell which one goes to the IPR and where does the other one go? I switched them and tried to start but no luck.
Im heading into town to go buy a 29MM deepwell socket so I can play with the IPR. . . I love living in the country, but sometimes the drive into town sucks.
I'm thinking that if the O rings are vitron you should be OK but I can't tell you how to tell if they are or are not.
OK as in dont need to replace them?
I successfully retrieved the IPR, Ill take it apart and clean it tomorrow. Im gonna try to run the pump off of a jug of diesel as well. Im still wondering how I can tell if my drive bolt is properly seated. . .
Well...that's probably a matter of opinion. I meant the ones you have in stock should be OK to use if they're vitron, I have a kit of vitron O rings and I used them for oil conditions. Don't know if they'd be OK for coolant or brake fluid though. But...I reuse O rings if they're in good shape, many people would not. I live dangerously.
So while inspecting my IPR, I noticed that the little orange O ring seal thing from the plug is gone, not sure if its still in the engine or what. But that wouldnt cause a no start would it?
Walleye, would just standard rubber rings work or should I just leave the old ones on? They dont look bad
That wiring was like that when I bought it. Wires go through the firewall to a switch on the dash, was cut when I bought it. The dad had no idea what it was when I texted him later about it, gave me his kids number and he thought it was a smoke switch?
Is it possible for the glow plugs to be causing any of this? I do remember the guy I purchased the truck from saying that he thought the glow plugs were getting close to needing replaced. At the time I was a complete diesel n00b so I had no idea what he was saying. . . Should I maybe try plugging them in next time I try to crank it? Ive got a cousin that used to work as a diesel mechanic, mostly Volvo trucks but if I dont have this sorted out by next weekend I may have him come check it out. Its kind of a long drive and hes got college, a job and a family so I dont want to bother him unless I gotta
It is possible, but unlikely. Does your block heater work? You could try plugging in the heater and get under the truck to see if you hear the element or feel the element working. Let it warm up for a bit and try to fire the truck up.