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Old Oct 9, 2016 | 03:24 PM
  #121  
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Im so confused. Just checked my oil, now I have too much? Its at the N of OPERATING on the dipstick, about an half inch to an inch about the full line. . . All I have done is drive it. I know for a fact it was leaking, I saw the oil trail I left at a parking lot yesterday. I did add some of that Lucas stuff in it, the like really thick oil thats supposed to lubricate everything better. I put in about 1/4 of a bottle, so maybe I had a small crack/hole and this filled it? I have no idea. I will work of the differential tomorrow I got too much going on today. Ill also see if I cant get the fuel lines replaced so I can drive it and see if it starts leaking again. . .
 
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Old Oct 10, 2016 | 08:32 AM
  #122  
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Be very very careful with what you put in the oil. Many OTR truckers love Lucas, but they don't drive with HEUI injectors. The 7.3L and 6.0L Powerstrokes have HEUI injectors, which use oil to power the injection cycle. Thickening the oil base is akin to lubing your fuel pump with syrup. Those with aging 7.3Ls usually have to use a thinner (5W-40) base oil to help the injectors fire when cold. You could have easily put yourself in a situation where you need the block heater plugged in just to start the truck.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2016 | 10:03 AM
  #123  
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Yeah, I didnt think about that until after I had put it in. But I thought the oil for the injectors was in the upper reservoir? And that the LPOP only refilled the reservoir if you drained it?

If that isnt the case, should I drain the oil out? Im wondering now if the oil level was really really low and I just now got it back up, and maybe it wasnt leaking at all? Maybe the fuel leak was taking some oil that was sitting in the valley? I dunno
 
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Old Oct 10, 2016 | 11:57 AM
  #124  
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The oil in the HPOP reservoir is constantly recirculated at an incredible rate - the oil in the pan is the oil in the reservoir and the rails. All you can do is roll with it to see if the oil is too thick to start with a cold block. If you have a big issue, an oil change to synthetic may be in order.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2016 | 12:50 PM
  #125  
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Originally Posted by P4IN COMM4NDO
But I thought the oil for the injectors was in the upper reservoir?
Yes, it is.

And that the LPOP only refilled the reservoir if you drained it?
And when the engine is running, the HPOP rez drains very fast, and gets replenished very fast from the LPOP. But just to be clear, since it seems like you're not sure, the oil in the oil pan (that which you change with every oil change) is what feeds the LPOP. So you can understand better now, why it's very important you keep your oil as clean and uncontaminated as possible.

Stewart
 
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Old Oct 10, 2016 | 02:28 PM
  #126  
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Originally Posted by Tugly
The oil in the HPOP reservoir is constantly recirculated at an incredible rate - the oil in the pan is the oil in the reservoir and the rails. All you can do is roll with it to see if the oil is too thick to start with a cold block. If you have a big issue, an oil change to synthetic may be in order.
Alright, hopefully I dont have an issue. What weight oil should I be using? Ive been running Rotella 10w30.

Originally Posted by Stewart_H
And when the engine is running, the HPOP rez drains very fast, and gets replenished very fast from the LPOP. But just to be clear, since it seems like you're not sure, the oil in the oil pan (that which you change with every oil change) is what feeds the LPOP. So you can understand better now, why it's very important you keep your oil as clean and uncontaminated as possible.

Stewart
Alright thanks for helping to clarify that for me.


What do I need to do about overfilling? Im having trouble trying to figure out if I temporarily stopped the leak or if it was even leaking in the first place and it just got really really low. I mean I did wipe the bottom of the pan clean and its wet again. I dunno.

I ordered the fuel lines today. Also got some pumpkin fluid. That Royal Purple stuff is crazy price, $21 a pop and I need 5 of em. . . They only had 3 in the store so I gotta go back tomorrow and get the rest but I can get everything drained and cleaned up.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 12:30 AM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by P4IN COMM4NDO
Alright, hopefully I dont have an issue. What weight oil should I be using? Ive been running Rotella 10w30.


What do I need to do about overfilling? Im having trouble trying to figure out if I temporarily stopped the leak or if it was even leaking in the first place and it just got really really low..
Just make sure it's a diesel rated oil. Most run a 5w-40 or 15w-40.

How are you reading the oil level? Unless your doing it incorrectly, there's no trick to it. It's gotta be done with the engine off, on level ground. If it's cold, it will read at the lower end of the scale. It it's warm at operating temperature, it will read at the upper end of the scale.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 05:48 AM
  #128  
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They make a non-diesel Rotella, so make sure it is CJ4 rated oil. The correct oil will say turbodiesel right on the jug. 15w40 is conventional, 5W40 is synthetic, and there are other less-common weights.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 06:46 AM
  #129  
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Originally Posted by binuya
Just make sure it's a diesel rated oil. Most run a 5w-40 or 15w-40.

How are you reading the oil level? Unless your doing it incorrectly, there's no trick to it. It's gotta be done with the engine off, on level ground. If it's cold, it will read at the lower end of the scale. It it's warm at operating temperature, it will read at the upper end of the scale.
I meant 15W40 is what Im running.

When I last checked it, the engine had been off for 9+ hours, I live in Indiana, so its pretty hard to find ground that isnt level .
 
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Old Oct 14, 2016 | 11:01 PM
  #130  
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OK, so I siphoned the excess oil out. Drove it about 35 minutes. Let it sit for a few hours and checked it and it was under the add line. It had been right at full. I checked the oil rails for leaks, found none. There is no oil in the valley. I checked the HPOP and lines and nothing there. Havent had a chance to check the oil cooler.

It sat at the same level for a few days while I wasnt driving it cuz I was messing with fuel lines, but when I ran it it started draining or burning again.

Engine otherwise sounds very healthy.

I need to get the CAC boots replaced and get some new clamps on there. Blew one of the intercooler intake pipes off (That is what they are called right?) sounded like a gunshot, hit the alternator. . . Luckily I had a random hose clamp in my truck that fit.

Got the fuel lines replaced, differential is sealed. Now to track down this oil leak
 
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Old Oct 16, 2016 | 12:46 PM
  #131  
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OK, got an update.

Friday night, oil level was right at full. Drove it about 25 miles, parked it and checked it again about 2 hours later, Hardly anything on the dipstick. Added 2 quarts, drove it another 25 miles home.

Checked the level on Saturday, just above full. Drove it oh about 15 miles into town to fuel up, when I parked at the pump I could see a trail of fluid, wiped it with my finger and it was definitely oil. It didnt feel hot or anything. I noticed the passenger side of the oil pan was all wet and slowly dripping. Drove it anther 15 miles to get to work, parked it at about 10 after 5pm, checked the oil 3 times before I started it around 9:30ish, barely anything on the dipstick, added approx 1 quart. Drove it 7 miles home and let it sit. Just checked the oil level again, right at full.

Also noticed my coolant level has dropped, I just added some yesterday. Got it to the middle of the full marker, now its about 3/4 inch below the full mark.

Someone said check the oil cooler, where exactly do I need to be looking? Its on the drivers side but I noticed oil on the passenger side of the oil pan. Also noticed some kind of fluid on the track bar bracket, not sure if I mightve hit a puddle or if something is leaking, I know I have a power steering fluid leak somewhere so it mightve just been that.

I got the fuel lines replaced and the differential is all sealed up, now I just gotta figure out the rest of my fluids here.

Is it possible Im just checking the oil while its still too warm? I am kind of a diesel noob, Im used to checking gas engine oil level, so maybe I just need to let the engine sit for longer?
 
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Old Oct 17, 2016 | 07:53 AM
  #132  
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First thing on the coolant - don't add any more. For some strange reason, the engineers screwed up on the placement of the "Full" mark on the bottle - the mark is too high. We all ride with the coolant below the full mark, and it's just fine there.

When you have a mystery leak, clean the engine and look for fresh oil.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2016 | 12:35 PM
  #133  
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Originally Posted by Tugly
First thing on the coolant - don't add any more. For some strange reason, the engineers screwed up on the placement of the "Full" mark on the bottle - the mark is too high. We all ride with the coolant below the full mark, and it's just fine there.

When you have a mystery leak, clean the engine and look for fresh oil.
OK, that is strange. Will it dump the excess coolant?

I have the stuff to clean the engine hopefully will get that done today.

If it only leaks when its running where are some spots to look?

I was wondering, since I saw moisture on the passenger side of the oil pan maybe something to do with the oil dipstick tube deal?
 
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Old Oct 17, 2016 | 05:15 PM
  #134  
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OK. Drove my truck about 10 minutes into town. On the way back, I could kinda feel it going in and out. RPMs stayed constant but I could feel it slow down, then jerk forward just a little.

Got some pics of the leak. Appears to just be the passenger side of the oil pan, tried to get some good angles. Oil level was at halfway between add/full before I started it today. Gonna go check it in a minute.

Just tried to get pictures of any oil I saw.












To make everything better I noticed the fuel hose I put in the other day started leaking. . . Guess I gotta crank the hose clamps down.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2016 | 07:24 PM
  #135  
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Got the leaked tracked down, yay. I guess.

It is the dipstick flange. Started it up and got under there, sure enough oil started flowing out.

So I just replace the O ring right? Part # F4TZ-6753-A ?

Sounds a little tricky but I think I can handle it, Im just happy to finally know whats going on.
 
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