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Old Oct 17, 2016 | 09:33 PM
  #136  
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Originally Posted by P4IN COMM4NDO
Got the leaked tracked down, yay. I guess.

It is the dipstick flange. Started it up and got under there, sure enough oil started flowing out.

So I just replace the O ring right? Part # F4TZ-6753-A ?

Sounds a little tricky but I think I can handle it, Im just happy to finally know whats going on.
Oil leak at dipstick tube flange fixed -with pics!

Stewart
 
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Old Oct 18, 2016 | 08:49 AM
  #137  
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The kit he is showing has a gasket, while other people I've seen have just replaced the O ring. Also I couldn't seem to find that kit when I looked up part #s. I was kinda just planning to pull it apart this morning and then go get the O ring from the dealer and put it back together either later today or tomorrow and be good. Is there a big difference between a gasket or an O ring for this application?
 
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Old Oct 18, 2016 | 09:20 AM
  #138  
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Originally Posted by P4IN COMM4NDO
The kit he is showing has a gasket, while other people I've seen have just replaced the O ring. Also I couldn't seem to find that kit when I looked up part #s. I was kinda just planning to pull it apart this morning and then go get the O ring from the dealer and put it back together either later today or tomorrow and be good. Is there a big difference between a gasket or an O ring for this application?

Here's what ya need.

Oil Pan repair kit

This is not a 10 minute job. Take your time and do not let the internal part fall into the pan.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2016 | 10:00 AM
  #139  
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Is that the only way to do it? Im not really looking to have my truck down for another week. And I cant pay $36 for overnight shipping. Can I get the stuff from the dealer?

Im aware that I will need to take my time, not looking to pull the trans or motor.

This was what I was going to do -

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...-be-fixed.html

EDIT : Gonna have FORD get the O ring in tomorrow morning, its like $4 and they dont charge for shipping. Ill just go with that for now. I could tell it was leaking from inside the nut, so Im saying the O ring went out. Ill go pull the starter out and get the dipstick loose and then Ill replace it tomorrow.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2016 | 06:22 PM
  #140  
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Started messing with the flange today, turns out it was really loose, like I coulda stuck a small flat head between the nut and the pan, gave it a half turn and it seems pretty snug now, doesnt move at all.

I think what may have caused that is the previous owner screwed up the bracket that holds the dipstick tube to the VC, so its pretty wobbly. Im thinking how ever long its been like that with pulling the dipstick mightve contributed. Putting the starter back on now hoping thatll do it!
 
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Old Oct 19, 2016 | 09:56 PM
  #141  
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Yeah that didnt work, still leaking. It leaks by the 2 little pin deals to line up the dipstick tube. Got it all pulled back apart. . .
 
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Old Oct 22, 2016 | 09:30 AM
  #142  
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Got the O ring switched out, the old one was really swollen and like double the size and diameter of the new one. I did break the bracket off in the process, so Ill need to rig something up then buy a replacement valve cover bolt. . .
 
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Old Oct 27, 2016 | 07:27 PM
  #143  
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When the engine warms up, it slowly leaks. Now its hardly as noticeable as it was before, but it is still leaking. I cant see any leaking when the engine is running cold, but as soon as it reaches operating temps, it starts. Do I just need to tighten the nut some more? Ive heard you will warp something if you do it too tight. Maybe some gasket maker around the nut?
 
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Old Oct 28, 2016 | 09:19 AM
  #144  
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Mine was leaking a little around the flange also. Just like you my truck had been down for some time (and a big buck$zooka blast). The boss had cut off my repair funds and the risk of any issue during the repair (especially dropping something inside the pan) would not be a discussion with my wife that would have ended well.

I compromised and got this:

Motorcraft TA31 RTV Silicone Sealant

It is specifically for our engines and it comes out tacky and ready to go. I cleaned/roughed up the surface and went to town with my caulking gun loaded with TA-31. A picture is of what I did is in post #14 of this thread:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...questions.html

It's still holding well. I took the starter out to get to that area of the oil pan so that I'd have multiple angles to attack the flange.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2016 | 10:24 AM
  #145  
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That looks like itll stop a leak. I drove the truck to work last night and it was leaking a little, couldnt tell how much tho. I guess Ill try this stuff.

I do have a tube of red permatex gasket maker, would that do the trick?
 
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Old Oct 28, 2016 | 11:46 AM
  #146  
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It might but I recommend the TA-31. I was skeptical of the TA-31's worthiness when I plunked down over $20 for the tube. Once I started using it, though, it was worth it. Already tacky when it came out, stuck to everything (and I mean e-v-e-r-y-t-h-i-n-g) it touched. Was set and hardening within about 20 minutes. Definitely worth the investment if you have the time to get it from Clay or the dealership. After using it that will be my go-to goo when it involves the engine.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2016 | 01:06 PM
  #147  
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OK. Ive gonna place an order from Clay over the weekend anyhow. So Ill try the stuff Ive got, and if it holds great, if not Ill scrape it off and use the Motorcraft stuff.

Edit :

Gunked on half a tube of permatex gasket maker, seemed to do the trick. Just drove it for about 45 minutes and no drips. It may have just slowed down, so Ill keep an eye on it. I may order the Motorcraft stuff just to have it in case.

Thanks everyone!
 
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Old Dec 9, 2016 | 08:19 AM
  #148  
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OK, so its been about a month or 2, maybe 3 since I got the leak sealed up, and to my knowledge its holding! Thanks again to everyone who made suggestions and helped me figure this cluster out, it is much appreciated!
 
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