so I installed my "new" T500 HPOP today, Im having a few issues. . . Im cranking but not starting. Ive got fuel, charged up the batteries, tried jumping it, Ive got oil to the new pump. Here is a video of what its doing, I noticed an electrical buzzing sound at the end of the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yzp5...ature=youtu.be

Pulled a few codes here is what I got.








Thanks for any advice you guys can offer!

 

Pull the plug atop the resivoir. See if it's within 3/4in from top... Indirect ask connections on/around the heads, hpop..etc

 

I will check the reservoir level thanks for reminding me, Im not getting the last part of your post tho

Also I might add that truck was running fine when it blew the rear plug out of the HPOP, Ive added some internal electronics like my CB and some LED strips, I pulled the 10Amp fuse #4 to test some stuff with the dome lights, but I havent touched anything since it was running other than the HPOP replacement and the fuel bowl. Recently did the cam sensor, its got a new battery under a year old and a slave battery. New starter not even 6 months old, rebuilt tranny under a year old. I did try to start it in Neutral no luck.

 

Dumb phone... Inspect all connections on/around

 

Got all the wires connected to the sensors/42 pin/UVCH?

And agreed with Timmyboy, fill the HPOP reservoir.

 

OK, also I think that buzzing in the video may be near the PCM? Im thinking I may go buy another battery or 2 and see if thatll do it. I had just had both valve covers off to check those harnesses and replaced the one on passenger bank.

 

Did not hear the buzz. Could be relays under the dash. Swap fan and PCM relays.

Always replace batteries in pairs.

 

You mean sensor connections? Ill have to get more pics I think I have some that arent connected, I dont think they were connected before I took the pump out tho

 

Its at the end of the video, Ill have to look at the relays tomorrow. Didnt really have the money to replace the batteries at the same time, I may take my newer one in tomorrow and see if its faulty and get a new one under waranty and then buy a brand new battery

 

Only 2 connectors I can think of that don't need enabled but yet, truck will run, is the fuel heater and ebpv located at bottom of spider, and ICP, but only if sensor is oiled up

 

Which relays are which? I dont have the owners manual. And are you talking in cab fuse box or the one in the engine bay?

 

Could it be my IDM? In the end of the video when Im near the front drivers side wheel thats when I heard the buzzing the loudest.

 

Buzzing and clicking relays "usually" means low voltage. Load test batteries.

 

How can I do a load test? Im gonna run and grab smore oil and either go buy another battery or steal on of my dads

 

My crank procedure after disrupting oil in the rails for any reason: Fire up an OBDII tool and monitor battery volts, RPMs, ICP, IPR and FIPW at a minimum. FIPW top left in the video, ICP top middle, IPR top right, RPM bottom right.


The FIPW will show 0.6 as a sync signal with the PCM until the starting minimums are met, then it will fire the injectors once "everything is a go" in the engine while cranking (minimum 500 PSI ICP). In my case, the delay of the ICP rise is due to the purging of air from the oil rails - and you can see the IPR going nuts to compensate. In my video, the situation is less than ideal, because I allowed the IPR to climb to high and the truck initially overfueled. I have since learned to watch the ICP very carefully, and when I see the ICP start to rapidly climb past 100-150 PSI, I let go of the key. I know from experience that the truck will fire off pretty quickly on the next crank.

Pay little heed to the running FIPW time - stock sticks will read closer to 2.8 ms (2800 microseconds).

If your drive gear bolt for the HPOP didn't reach the proper torque, the gear will spin and not deliver the pressure you need.

As for your codes, I'd clear them and see what comes up fresh.