OK thanks I will check those out. The O ring is not cracked, I inspected the O ring on my new IPR valve and it looks exactly the same. I find it odd, but then again is odd. . .

Just to clarify, the IPR itself gets torqued to 35 ft lbs, does the tin nut get torqued or just tightened down? Any advice on fitting a torque wrench down there?

Reading through that last link, one of the things that sticks out to me is I do not recall seeing any white smoke while cranking.

Here is that data I pulled last night while cranking.


Also, the new IPR I got doesnt have that orange seal for the solenoid, is that something to worry about?

 

Got the IPR installed, got up to 500 RPMS. . . then water in fuel light came on. . . Ive got 3/4 (approx. 28.5 gallons. . .) tank full and its been sitting for 2.5 months. . . about how much water are we talking about? like should I unhook my fuel line from my pump and let it drain that way? Ive already done it at the fuel bowl a few times.

 

I would just drain through the fuel bowl drain. How much water have you gotten?

 

What do you mean by how much water? Ive done it maybe 6 times already, I have my batteries recharging right now they were down to 21% Vs the 98% I started with before cranking. I may have gotten all the water out already but I dont have enough power to crank fuel in. Should the fuel have a tint if it has water in it? I just dumped some Diesel Kleen in, and found that somehow my cap got left open, so Im guessing some of the water was just from the morning dew.

Im still getting 0 for fuel pressure, is it even possible to read fuel pressure through the PCM? Also getting nil on ICP pressure. I will try to start it again later tonight after the batteries have charged, I got other stuff going on so probably not until 8cst.


And the hunt goes on. . . it would really, really, really, really make my month to hear this thing start again

 

You can't read fuel pressure from the PCM, external gauge only.....

As for the ICP. Have you tried unplugging the ICP sensor yet? If the sensor has failed, unplugging it will force the truck to use some internal values to "simulate" ICP for the PCM.

 

Yeah I thought that was the case, Im not sure why its even an option then though. . . anyhow thank you for clarifying. I have been trying it with the sensor plugged in, then if after a few cranks it doesnt go Ive unplugged it. Batteries are at 100% Im feeling good about this next crank. Also I did see a black cat cross the road on the way home

 

So, no luck . New IPR, I had the ICP unplugged. Batteries at 100%. Fuel in the bowl. Had my dad put his hand over the exhaust. Cranked it 7 times for approx 25 seconds. First 2 he said they felt the same, but that he could feel air movement. Next 2 he said had more pressure. Next one felt even more pressure, next 2 felt the same. He said the air felt cold. I also popped the air filter off and could feel it pulling air while cranking. Could see the turbo spin. Belt is spinning. Its just not takin off. . . I think Ill call Riffraff tomorrow and see what they think. I mean it was workin just fine before that pump. But if I didnt install it right, then the belt wouldnt be spinning would it? I mean if I hadnt meshed the gears right or messed up the drive bolt? I did pull a P1280 after doing this (Yes I cleared codes before we started.), but that was probably from the sensor being unplugged. Also pulled a EBP code, but the tube is cut off so thats probably all that is, I need to get a new one.

This.

Is.

Killing.

Me.

 

Relatively off topic P4IN COMM4NDO (my apologies). I just love how the guys here all chime in to resolve this issue. This forum is the best. The problem will be resolved. I also commend you on being on top of the replies.

-Kyle

 

Yeah everyone has been great so far haha.

I called my diesel mechanic cousin, he said it sounds like fuel issues. His first thought was to pull the fuel filter out and make sure its full of fuel, he said if its not youre sucking air through and you need to soak it in fuel.

Next he said to prime it quite a few times before starting as he is thinking that its something to do with air. He used to work on Volvo semis, and they had a primer on the fuel bowl, like on a small lawn mower. Kinda wish Ford had one of those. . .

He also said to turn the key forward then crack open the fuel lines on each bank and make sure that fuel is spraying out.

Lastly, he said just crank. And crank, and crank.

So I guess Ill try some of this stuff tomorrow, got the charger on it now.

Ironically my buddy is having to replace the IPR on a 04 Excursion 7.3, now he is asking me to come help him get his switched out since Im getting so fast at it. . .

Also, no idea what is going on with my wiring harness. I looked at my buddies plugs, and he has a yellow one going to the fuel heater, then he has an injector looking plug going to the IPR. Nothing else. Where as I have an extra injector looking plug hanging in the valley. I figured out which one I need to have plugged into the IPR, but the fact that I have an extra is wierding me out

 

I must mention that I think that extra wire connector had to go somewhere? Did you notice it hanging when you disassembled everything? I would try and retrace your steps and make sure you have indeed plugged everything back up. Get the wire connector and pull it all over the engine as far as it will reach then look in these areas for somewhere that connector can plug into. Did you plug in your EBP sensor after you installed the HPOP?

Also look for anything else you could have knocked, banged or pulled loose during removal.

Just trying to take a logical approach to things......

 

Yeah, Im trying to figure it out. I honestly dont remember. I had it apart about 2 months ago, so. . . EBP is on the front of the engine correct? That little plate to access the drive bolt?


I also just read this -

"Each head has 2 ports in the fuel passage. on the 7.3 fuel goes in the front of the drivers side head and the back side is blocked with a plug. the passenger side is the opposite. the fuel goes in the back and the front port is blocked. if you were to back off the pipe plugs and cycle the key you should be able to bleed the heads then the only bit of air left is in the injector itself and that should go pretty easy."

 

That's covered earlier in the thread. I think this situation is more a case of fire, ready, aim - he's learning a lot here. I applaud his hard work and dedication to resolving this.

 

Here's a pic of an IPR. That piece that has a split in it is that little black spacer down at the end. I see no yellow O ring, just the two, which are green. If you blow it up you can see that the large O ring has some meat chaffed off of it into the threads right there, that O ring cannot be used again. They do not look like abnormally thick O rings and can probably be obtained at ACE or your auto parts store or local hydraulic shop, just make sure that they're Vitron.

 

Well Im reloading.

Just out of curiosity, what would you have done differently? Still learning over here


@Walleye, Ive got the O rings sorted out. I put a new IPR in. I do believe Im missing the little seal that goes on the solenoid plug though.

 

OK so I just got off the phone with a FORD diesel tech. After I explained to him what was going on, what new parts I had and what I replaced, he said he really couldnt think of anything mechanical that would being causing it to not start. He said he never had an issue with air in the fuel lines on a 7.3, that he hasnt had any issues with the IDM on 7.3s. He said that he was thinking something electrical. But since I am 45 minutes away from said dealer it doesnt really work out for me to have him hook into the computer. Also the fact that he wanted $105 to do it. . .

I just checked my filter housing again, that all checks out. Cant really get easy access to my fuel lines to crack them just to see if there is any air.

Back on the warpath.

EDIT : Could it be related to my tuner? I think Im gonna go ahead and pull it and see if that makes a difference.