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Only in reverse and you have to select the Aux camera every time you go from Drive to Reverse. PITA if you don’t get the trailer where you want it on the first try.
If you set the Rear Camera Delay to ON, it will not turn off when you switch from reverse to drive and back. Look it up on page 234 of the users manual.
If you set the Rear Camera Delay to ON, it will not turn off when you switch from reverse to drive and back. Look it up on page 234 of the users manual.
Thanks Mike, I’ll give it a try. I was hoping I was overlooking something.
Last edited by andymil; Aug 13, 2018 at 01:21 PM.
Reason: Add text.
OK, I found it in the vehicle settings in SYNC. However, it doesn't do what we want. It simply turns off the delay when you shift into gear. It doesn't prevent the camera from defaulting to the tailgate cam when you come in and out of reverse. I was excited for a second...LOL
Correct, it will still default to tailgate when you shift to reverse. But, if you shift to reverse, then select the aux camera, then shift back to drive, it stays on the aux camera during the delay. Helps when you need to pull forward again to straighten things up. Then, when you switch back to reverse, you have to manually select the AUX again. Ditto on the CHMSL camera when trying to hook up to the fiver. Put in reverse, select the cargo camera, back up, pull forward to adjust, camera stays on, reverse again, select again, then back up.
And as others have stated, I've been waiting for some kind of forscan for this. If somebody can figure it out, it alone would be reason enough for me to jump on the forscan bandwagon.
So I installed the truck side using the Nichols welding mount but I stumped as how to run the wire internally through my pinbox and over to the front of the trailer. I've watched the videos of them unscrewing the fiberglass bottom to allow room to feed the harness through the pinbox and over but I can't do that on mine. Mine is all riveted so I can't drop my fiberglass section at all. Also there are metal bars that block me from feeding the harness through. I plan on running only the TPMS so my question to you guys already running this what is the distance from your TPMS module to the furthest sensor in your most rear tire? If I mount my module directly to the pinbox it will be about 27 ft to the furthest tire. Do you think I will be ok?
Another thing watching the Nichols video he runs it through the pinbox and over then it looks like he has enough wire to run the TPMS module another 8 ft down the trailer. When I lay it out on my trailer it looks like I will only make it halfway down the front compartment. Anyone else have input on how far they were able to get the TPMS module down the trailer?
If you drill the rivets, you can drop the fiberglass. Mine was screwed so it was easier but as you've noticed... if you don't drop it, the frame cross bars will block you from running it through. I used an electrician's fish tape to pull sting then used the string to pull the wiring. The hardest part was it had to make a right angle when the overhang met the trailer above the front generator compartment.
As to how far the first section of harness reaches, it's different for each trailer I'd imagine. Mine made it into the gen compartment and over to the side wall.
So I installed the truck side using the Nichols welding mount but I stumped as how to run the wire internally through my pinbox and over to the front of the trailer. I've watched the videos of them unscrewing the fiberglass bottom to allow room to feed the harness through the pinbox and over but I can't do that on mine. Mine is all riveted so I can't drop my fiberglass section at all. Also there are metal bars that block me from feeding the harness through. I plan on running only the TPMS so my question to you guys already running this what is the distance from your TPMS module to the furthest sensor in your most rear tire? If I mount my module directly to the pinbox it will be about 27 ft to the furthest tire. Do you think I will be ok?
Trailer is a Genesis CR40
I don't have my 5er here to measure but I mounted the TPMS sensor inside the front facing compartment and it works fine. It is a 38 foot 5er so it is a good distance from the tires, yours should work fine on the pinbox. Fortunately on my Cedar Creek they had installed wood spacers below steel frame for mounting skin and running power cable, I didn't even have to unscrew but it was a tight fit. I am sure you have really looked your situation over closely but they had to get the power cable through there somehow.
I don't have my 5er here to measure but I mounted the TPMS sensor inside the front facing compartment and it works fine. It is a 38 foot 5er so it is a good distance from the tires, yours should work fine on the pinbox. Fortunately on my Cedar Creek they had installed wood spacers below steel frame for mounting skin and running power cable, I didn't even have to unscrew but it was a tight fit. I am sure you have really looked your situation over closely but they had to get the power cable through there somehow.
Yeah they have a power wire running through there but the hole they used is barely bigger than the wire running through it. I think I might pull the connector off the TPMS connector and try and fish the wires through the power wire the factory already ran.
Originally Posted by andymil
I couldn’t get the cable through the frame to the pin box. I didn’t want to drop the fiberglass completely and reseal it.
The cable comes out of the fiberglass right behind the pin box and I zip tied it to the existing trailer cord.
My tpms transmitter is in the front corner of the front compartment. It’s about 20 feet from the farthest wheel.
Have a picture of what you did? I'm not following you.
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