I plan on deleting most of this anyway but without taking the engine out how can I "plug" the hoses on the back of the engine? Are they screwed into the back?

 

I agree - EEEEEEEEKKKKKK! That is going to be a challenge.

 

Hey, Don't give up. I have same truck, same trouble. The "dual purpose reservior" was my biggest prob. I bypassed that $289.00 nightmare for now. Gonna plumb it in with a good aftermarket set up.
Pump in tank AND high pressure pump on frame rail must work. And regulator must hold pressure. Mine ran crappy till all those were new.

 

There should be a metal tube with a checkvalve that crosses from one head to the other.

I only know carbureted heads, but *they* have a hole threaded 5/8-11, so a shortened cap screw and a copper sealing washer can be used.
Easier to see from underneath

Given the state of that engine I'd be tempted to pull it out just to have room to clean it and the engine bay.
If you're thinking of going carb, you could get a mechanical fuel pump and an HEI style distributor.
THAT would simplify a WHOLE bunch of things.

 

in reading through different posts I had read that I may have to change the timing cover? I don't remember what year they were talking about but I can see on mine that there may be a block off plate but will there be the eccentric on the cam since its an electric fuel pump.

 

If there is a block off plate there is Very likely an eccentric.
Two screws to remove it and peek inside.

 

The later model fuel injected 302 did have what "looked" like a eccentric, but really it was only the inside piece and the factory was using it as a washer for the camshaft gear bolt. The older 302 where I got the mech fuel pump timing cover from had the same eccentric piece but it had a wide ring that went on the outside of the eccentric. It looked like it was treated metal, and it rubbed on the center eccentric piece, not the fuel pump arm.

Running the fuel pump arm on just the center piece that comes with some of the fuel injected engines means the fuel pump arm will be directly rubbing on the eccentric. Will this cause a problem? I don't know. It may last for many years that way.

 

Ford used both a one piece eccentric and a two piece eccentric over the years.
I'm not exactly sure when/where they made a change (Numberdummy???)

Be aware that the cam dowel pin is either long or short, depending on this application.
My eccentric is two piece, but the one piece style is ground smooth on the OD.

Whatever.....

If the OP doesn't have to deal with emissions and doesn't mind a bit of tuning, it is going to be far simpler and less expensive to abandon the chewed up factory harness and go Old School.

 

Here is where I am at today....well I am on shift at the FD so I can't work on it today but....I have a line on another fuel rail with injectors as well as another harness that should be in good shape. Other than dealing with the EGR crap and then figuring out what the fuel system is doing that should be it. On the other hand I can get another intake and carb and install an aftermarket fuel pump with regulator but then will have to do some plumbing on the fuel system to get rid of the existing pumps (?) as well as figure out how to keep the existing tank switch and make it work. Also have to figure out the accelerator cable and kickdown for the C6. Either way is not going to be easier than the other as far as quickness, both have their challenges but I do not mind tuning a carb at all.

 

So I "should" be able to unscrew the pipe from the back of the head and plug the holes in the heads and if then I can do away with everything else theoretically. I will put this on my check list of things to look at tomorrow.

 

So far the only input I can give is if you get an Edelbrock you'll probably have minimal (if any) tuning. Since swapping the Holley out for one I haven't had one single issue with the engine running on a carb period.

 

I need to start making a parts list for either way. I was looking up the distributors and like anything else they're are plenty of them but from what I can see the HEI seems to be the easiest as far as hooking up goes, just run a switched hot wire to the coil from what I can tell. Are they any brand names I should stay away from compared to others? I hate to pay for summit or jegs and pay for their name.

 

Yes, you should be able to plug the AIR holes, but it is TIGHT back there. And the bolt must be shortened to about 1/2" of threads, if that, both to be able to get in back there as well as so it won't bottom out in the head.

Obviously you are at a decision point - keep the EFI or change to a carb. You are right, in my opinion, that neither has much power advantage over the other as yours is an early EFI system. With the batch-firing and air flow system it doesn't lend itself to hot rodding, so you will need to decide if this truck is to remain stock or be "improved". If you intend to give it a different cam, headers, etc then maybe going with a carb is the best approach. But, if you aren't going to do that then you still have a toss-up.

Were it not for the other thread going where a guy is trying to diagnose his EFI problems and isn't getting relevant error codes, I'd say the EFI system would get the nod as it is already there and should self-diagnose. But, that is not always the case, and when it isn't things get extremely difficult to diagnose.

I think if it were mine I'd go with an Eddy intake and manifold plus a DS-II ignition and be done with it. That's because I know it'll work and there's no lingering difficulty with wonky electronics. If your EFI were working and you knew that fixing one thing would be the end of it, maybe I'd go that way. But, it isn't and you don't know how many layers of problems you have - wiring, computer, ignition, TAB & TAD relays, MAP sensor, fuel pumps (3), etc.

 

If you go back to efi you're going to have to keep the egr, thermactor, ALL the sensors and keep them functional.

None of that matters with a carb, mechanical fuel pump and one wire distributor.

Easiest solution to tank switching is the six port Polack valve that all the diesel guys use.
Ive seen the entire kit (valve, bracket, harness) on Ebay for well under $100

 

Amen! Everything has to work, with no exceptions, for EFI. I should have made it clear that plugging the AIR is only for the carb.