Awesome job. I also went with the TKO and Mike's slave unit for the exact same reason. Enjoying the progress of the build.

 

speechless!

 

Thanks guys.

If I could change the title of my build to " PROJECT '53 Coyote Build" I would. But its to late to edit it. After talking with many performance shops, and doing my own research I decided to skip on the Aluminator. It presented more obstacles than I felt it was worth. I went with the recent released 2015-16 Coyote. Heres some possibly usefull info for those contemplating the same thing.

The front timing cover on the Aluminator are different than standard Coyote engines to allow a Ford Racing or Roush S/C. So any and all aftermarket pulley drive systems for P/S and or A/C wouldn't fit, as well as the updated Ford A/C compressor belt drive I'll mention later.

I was planning on a S/C but was most likely going to use a centri type. I'm still not sure on that yet. But using a regular Coyote allows me to use any kit that installs on a 2015 Mustang. Also most speed shops were telling me the factory Coyote seems to handle up to around 700 HP well. Which is way too much for a rear end light truck anyway lol. The '15's have a forged crank and rods. The Aluminator adds forged pistons and ARB bolts and better forged rods.

There are a few changes to the new standard 2015 Coyotes worth mentioning:

-The front cover now has provisions for a A/C belt tensioner. The previous model had no tensioner and the belt was referred to as the "stretchy" belt. Seems primitive, and had numerous TSB's. The fix was a new design timing cover for the 15 models and it comes on the new crate engines.

-The 2015 factory Mustang uses a catalytic converter built into the drivers side exhaust header. Due to cost the new '15 Coyotes ship without the drivers side header. So you will need to purchase one. I found a pull off set for 100 bucks on Ebay from a 2014. It fits so the old style header is interchangeable with the new. The eBay set came with both and comparing the old style passenger and new style passenger look identical.

-The new engines require a different Ford control pack. There were stalling complaints of the old style and the culprit was the lack of a vehicle speed sensor input from my research. The new kit has wiring for a VSS. Ford says the control packs are not interchangeable.

- The new style comes with a huge sandwich mount oil cooler between the oil filter and block. It will need to go. Or be relocated with a remote mount.

- For those that want A/C and also want to use the factory A/C compressor I found a guy that makes fittings. They are machined billet compressor manifolds with -8 and -10 fittings to work with aftermarket A/C kits. They can be found at Sean Highland Motorsports.

-The new Coyote has 435hp. Up a little from the last. From what I understand it is mostly due to head work. Likely learned from the BOSS cylinder heads.

Hope some of that info was helpful to somebody down the line.

Here she be:

435 horses in this box? They must be miniature horses.

 

Nick, thanks for the update. You will love the Coyote, easy install and a great drive.

 

Thanks Mike. I learned a lot from your build. You made your own air intake rather than use the supplied kit (giant odd shaped box). Did you have any issues with that or require a tune?

 

Nice truck, great build and awesome skills. Can't wait for what comes next. Subscribed!!

 

I know what you mean about the oil cooler having to go. Look at the size of this set-up. I'm going with a Moroso remote filter relocation adapter and filter base.

 

No problems but I did keep the cross section of the tube the same, the air flow sensor in a straight section and the distance from throttle valve to sensor within an inch or two.

 

Holy oil filter adapters Batman. That thing is huge. Mine is a little more compact but still gonna be in the way.





I'll likely go the remote route like you mentioned.

 

Thanks Mike.

 

Im using this setup on my 4.6L. I have Perma-Cool filter mount (mounted in front of the radiator) with an FL-1A Ford filter. I used -8 AN fittings and stainless braided line


Its a tight fit in the F1 frame with a mod motor

 

Nicholas, you have an awesome build going. I have a 55 that I will be doing many of the same mods to. I was just wondering if you know if any of the long tube coyote headers for mustangs may work in our trucks. I'm following your thread with great interest.

 

Working on the belt drive. First is the A/C compressor. I'm using a Ford FR3Z-19703-B compressor and used Ford W714373-S437 mounting studs. One thing to keep in mind with an A/C kit is the oil quanity. Its important. When filling a new system one needs to know how much oil the system takes. The oil in an A/C system circulates through all the parts. So each component holds some oil.. Compressors will ship with some oil. But how much? Is it just enough for a compressor replacement or for an entire new dry A/C system? One will never know. So I drained the oil from the compressor into a measuring cup. It takes a few minutes and a few rotations of the shaft for it all to come out. I measured 4oz. I marked it on the compressor and dumped it back in. Now I know how much oil is in the compressor.





Here are the compressor manifolds I used from Sean Highland #SHM-AFK. They install to the compressor and have -8 and -10 fittings to connect to aftermarket a/c lines.





I also ordered the a/c belt tensioner kit. The engine uses two belts. New mustangs come with the stretchy belt for the a/c without tensioner. Its only if a customer complains about noise will the dealer add the kit. The dealer couldn't locate the parts without a TSB # (technical service bulletin). I located the number which is TSB 12-08-14 and ordered the kit Ford BR3Z-8620-DA. It comes with a tensioner, idler, belt, and hardware. As long as the passenger side of the front cover looks like below, it has the attachment points for the kit.





Here is what the kit looks like installed. Also installed is the BOSS 302 alternator kit # M-8600-M50-BALT.





And the SHM fittings.






I also as I mentioned the new 2015 S550 Coyote crate engines come without a drivers side exhaust header. The header is BR3Z-9431-C, gasket BR3Z-9448-A, and the nuts for it are W714870-S430. It took me a while to find all these part numbers so I though they might come in handy for the next guy.

 

Thanks! As far as the headers I can't say. I plan to use the stock tubular manifolds. If that changes, and it might, I'll update.

 

Now that the front of the engine is topped off with its accessory drive I turned my attention to the backside of the engine. Because it is a new bellhousing mounted to a new engine it is always a real good idea to index the bellhousing. To do that I set up a dial indicator on the flywheel. I removed 3 of the 8 bolts for my base to fit.




Then spun over the engine to take my reading. Tremec has a tolerance of .005. Doing it this method I add my positive reading (needle goes up from 0) and my negative reading (needle moves south of 0). That is the total runout. That number is divided in half to get the tolerance. Mine was .008 total. Half that is .004. Within the .005 spec. Nice! If it was out I would need to use adjustable dowel pins to move the bellhousing. My reading looked like this:


If anyone is interested in more info on this. The video below is great . The guy does a great job.