When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I've never thought of using a tubing notcher as a center drilling device like that, much more accurate and easier than using a drill press vice on the drill press. Going into my box of tricks for sure. Thanx.
Yup. The Notchmaster is a really great tool. I usually keep it mounted to a stand when I use it. But wanted to show how it can do things other than cut angles and be used without a stand. Due to garage/shop space I only have one permanent mounted stand. I swap the JD² Model 3 bender, Notchmaster, and my shrinker/stretcher to keep more open space. I'm a big JD² fan if you guys can't tell ha ha. No relationship/connection, even if my post sounds like a late night infomercial lol. Just excellent quality tools at a reasonable cost.
I will be using the Model 3 for the cross members. I'll be using 1.5" square tubing... Is that an oxy moron? Square tubing.... Hmmmm..
I tacked in the rear boxing plates then welded them on top and ground down the welds. Then I flipped the frame over, and leveled it.
Then I burned in the entire bottom in 4-6 inch beads skipping around and taking breaks. Then ground all the welds down.
Now the frame boxing is almost complete other than a small area ahead of the front cross member. That's enough for one day. Next I'll start building cross members and taking off my temporary ones. I'm half way through my second 11lb welding wire roll! Probably put on 15lbs of wire and ground off 10 lol.
You might want to try a spool of the ESAB/Spoolarc Easy Grind wire. It lays down a flatter bead and is much softer, more like TIG wire so it does grind much easier and quicker without putting as much heat into the piece. More expensive than commonly used general purpose wire, but once you use it you'll never go back. I've seen pieces, especially body metal warp worse during grinding than when welding. People tend to forget/not realize just how much heat is generated, so they are real careful while welding then grind the snot out of it without letup. I use the edge of a 1/4" grinding wheel on my 4" angle grinder crossways or at 45* angle to the bead to knock off most of the top of the bead. Next I switch to a 30 or 40 grit red fiber sanding disk with rubber backing pad to level it. If doing extra fine work that's not going to be skimmed with putty, I take out those scratches with an 80 grit red fiber disk then finish with 120 grit on my DA with the orbital locked.
You might want to try a spool of the ESAB/Spoolarc Easy Grind wire. It lays down a flatter bead and is much softer, more like TIG wire so it does grind much easier and quicker without putting as much heat into the piece. More expensive than commonly used general purpose wire, but once you use it you'll never go back. I've seen pieces, especially body metal warp worse during grinding than when welding. People tend to forget/not realize just how much heat is generated, so they are real careful while welding then grind the snot out of it without letup. I use the edge of a 1/4" grinding wheel on my 4" angle grinder crossways or at 45* angle to the bead to knock off most of the top of the bead. Next I switch to a 30 or 40 grit red fiber sanding disk with rubber backing pad to level it. If doing extra fine work that's not going to be skimmed with putty, I take out those scratches with an 80 grit red fiber disk then finish with 120 grit on my DA with the orbital locked.
When I read this, I thought I would copy it and add it to your "Welding 101 - Theory and Practice" 34-page dissertation. Then I found you already covered it in that document. Thanks again Chuck for that great primer on welding.
You're welcome to you Joe and any others that found it useful and/or informative. Yes, there is a link in the tutorial to a stocking discounted source for the .030 Easy grind in 4" and 8" spools and the 0.024 diameter in 8" spool quantities. Evidently ESAB has stopped offering the smaller diameter in 4" spools. I use it for all my welding.
Now back to the original thread already in progress...
I decided to notch the frame. In my mockup I was real close at full compression and wanted to add some bump stops. Also if I decide to go a little lower later on down the road... Its ready.
I measured and traced my notches with a large hole saw as a template. Then cut them out with an angle grinder.
I cut strips for the notch patch and bent it around the same hole saw.
I clamped the bent patches to the frame and burned them it, and cleaned up.
Then a made some gas tank protection. I didn't make much actually... Just cut a piece of 3" square tubing to fit between the frame rails behind the tank. It will stiffen the frame and provide some piece of mind. I might add a piece of 1 1/2" tube in a U shape to protect the part of the tank hanging below. I'll wait to weld it in until I decide just what I want.
Its starting to come together...I also added some attachment points for a rear bumper. I'm thinking I will roll without one, but might have to make one to get an inspection sticker. At least I'll have a solid attachment point for something. I used 1/2 nuts welded inside the frame.
Here is the TCI rear 4 link mount. I'll weld it on rather than bolting. But the one bolt that holds the top link bar passes through the frame. I welded in a crush tube prior to welding on the mount. I slid in a long tube completely through both frame rails to be certain all was square. I still have to cut off the section between the free rails. This is a spot I almost made a mistake and welded on the mount first. I never would have been able to install a crush tube after that. One of those moments where having a few BEvERageS and thinking about things helps.
I'm like that boy in your avatar, always learning. ..lol
The boy with the butter knife into the socket will not get shocked unless he is providing a ground path through his body. Neither side of the outlet will shock you unless you are grounded.
The boy with the butter knife into the socket will not get shocked unless he is providing a ground path through his body. Neither side of the outlet will shock you unless you are grounded.
This I know, I wired my home when I built it, just making fun.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
Then I found you already covered it in that document. Thanks again Chuck for that great primer on welding. 
.
. But thanks for the kind words.
The boy with the butter knife into the socket will not get shocked unless he is providing a ground path through his body. Neither side of the outlet will shock you unless you are grounded. 
