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I think your problem is going to be enough signal through the boosters of a 600.
The shot might cover transition.
Nothing will get the charge to atomize correctly with the throttle closed.
I'm suprised anyone would bother to sleeve *two* cylinders in a block that is this common.
That's gotta cost more than another core would.
Anyway, I'm looking forward to seeing what you come home with and how the build comes together!
Yeah I know! And they bought 8 390 hyperuetic pistons, valves for two different heads, two sets of lifters, and all that other stuff and then not even use it?
Motor should be done mid next week...so I'm going to see if I can get Friday off to come up here and get it. And install next weekend.
here i was at the machine shop.
as you can see the corner was a little higher and you can see the "glass" smooth vs the old "smooth" and why he machined the block and the head.
also he added a 30 degree angle on the valves so help them seat better/deeper.
my combustion chamber is 75cc
piston sits .014 below deck
and a 107 icl
my t18 measures:
bellhousing to bolts(3" apart) is 22 inches
bellhousing to tcase seal is 25.5"
zf5 is
bellhousing to bolts (3" apart) is 25"
bellhousing to tcase seal is 29"
the mount betweent he motor and the crossmember is an inch taller on the zf5 then the t18
my dads zf5 which fits the "three hole" xmember has bolts that are 2.5" apart.
"three hole"
i couldnt find the p/n and when put in my frame(bolts hanging through the holes, the "ears wouldnt line up with my frame, however i didnt think to try my current ears..duh)
this was on the ear i pulled from my truck
this was on the ear i painted
heres the difference betweent he ears and the crossmembers
as installed in the truck(from the hood view)
so as far as the drilling of the holes...
do i do it like this? and move it back a bolt and drill new holes on the top and bottom of the frame?
I can't find those crossmembers in the catalog, but then I'm not finding any crossmembers in the catalog. So I'm confused.
I think you are going to have to install the ZF and see where the crossmember wants to fit. That's because the frame curves a bit and it may not work with that crossmember. Or, it might.
I know it isn't "proper" but I took one of those Craftsman cutters for hose and cut right through the harness right at the computer. Then I started pulling the wires out of the rest of the wiring one at a time. Made it easy.
Dylan,
How do you get to a 10.35"pushrod?
I thought stock was 10.136 and you had both the head and block milled....
Why are they not shorter, if anything?
Would the single springs have coilbound if you were to shim the seats?
I usually try to avoid double springs unless they are the type to ride one another.
This is done to avoid harmonics.
Not sure what you're doing with your cam.
Sounds pretty aggressive for the old 4.9.