That's possible.

I personally think it's because I have a 4core radiator hooked up to the guy.

And there's a 195 thermostat in it. I have a 180, but my mechanical temp gauge isn't reading anything. It starts at 100 and honestly I think it might have went up a smidge to like 110 but on a 100-250 degree scale that's not much.

I might just have a bad temp gauge or a cable that's not twisting and reading .

 

As long as the thermostat is closed the size of the radiator won't make a difference. The thermostat should stay closed, with the coolant circulating in the engine and heater core, until the coolant reaches the set point. It will open then and coolant will flow through the radiator, which will drop the temp below the set point in outside temps like we are seeing now. But the 'stat has hysteresis and won't close again until well below the set point - like maybe the 175 degrees I was seeing yesterday.

So if you have a 195 in but aren't seeing the engine warm up then either the 'stat is bad or coolant is getting past it to flow through the radiator, even when the 'stat is closed.

 

I think those nuts are called Tinnerman nuts. They're sort of formed sheet metal rather than machined or rolled threads. You can often find them in some of the more obscure drawres in the fastener section of a hardware store.

 

I've got the lenses secured, but now I gotta get the foam. And I could use a new blinker fuse.

I'm going to pull it off today depending on if I can get off early and get my exhaust system ran or at least worked on.

The engine gets warm, and the lines get warm, the heater core is HOT and the tube going to the top part of the radiator is warm but then after a few square inches the radiator is cool unless I let it sit.

I really want to just pull the thermostat and see how it runs. Will it hurt anything? I want the engine to get warm I want to see 160+ degrees because I don't feel like it's truly warmed up until then.

Side note, driving my oil pressure is crazy(read bounces below 0) like cruising, on the throttle it's 50 or so and at idle it's around 30. Is that normal ish?

 

Well I got my thermostat thing taken care of, it pops at 200 and my cable for my mechanical temp gauge broke. Waiting on the time to roll around then I'll crank her up and see if she works.

Put pcv in and hooked up my brake booster and ac/heat system we will see how that works shortly.

Maybe putting my exhaust on today?!

 

Ok, let us know...........

 

Everything works good! Now I just gotta do my rear brakes( needs shoes) and the exhaust. I MIGHT use clamps and put the exhaust in today, but I doubt it. I'll probably just wait until tomorrow and have my friend weld it up at his shop and do it all.

 

Glad you got the cooling system sorted.

 

Yes me too! However I didn't pay too much attention to it, but before when my tstat opened, it dropped the needle, now it just slowly dropped and then I went and hooked my ac lines up. Also vacuum gauged tuned to 750rpm and 17.5(whatever vacuum thing is. I know it's something mercury(hg))

 

heres my carb card, however im not sure why it has a power valve number on it, its a mechanical secondaries.


also noticed my tcase still dripped...


my rear brakes.




and the new ones!




started to heat and penetrate oil this guy.


should i? it used to have them and a tool box on it.




also my front right is meesed up. when the tcase is in 2wd, the drive shaft spins easily, when the left is locked, the ujoint next to the hub, spin, but the right doesnt turn at all, not by hand locked or unlocked. im gonna tear it apart at some point sooner then later but im just curious if yall have had any ideas on this.

 

Exhaust is done, but I am having issues with my photobucket.

I plan on getting cutouts. I miss the open header idle.

Also I did my right front hub, it was stripped/locked halfway. I put a new warn in and it's all good! Also cleaned and repacked my wheel bearing.

Currently have a few leaks I'm taking care of and I keep heat cycling it through out the day. Leg it full cool then let it idle for 30 or so minutes til it's warm then do it all again.

Put my 36" tires back on. And I need a steering stabilizer again aha.

I have a odd noise at idle in nuetral. It likes chunks/ grinds. I know its something with my clutch, I just can't figure it out.

 

I know the leak monster very well. Glad to head it's toned down again. Hoping to do mine in early Feb. I need to before I start seriously tuning it.

 

The power valve number is the point at which it opens.
It is in the primaries and has nothing to do with the secondaries opening.

Holley Power Valve Tuning - Blogs - Holley Performance Products Forums

I recently found that a bad universal had allowed my axle to retract, destroying the splines in my passenger hub.
The new full turn Warn premiums seem to be more positive.

Do you have the pitman arm and all the rest for that 60?

Does your 'clutch' noise wind down if you fully depress the pedal?
Sounds more like a bad input bearing in the gearbox, or idle rollover if it is a clacking sound.

 

What exactly do you mean?

I deff had a leak issue. I changed to a 180 thermostat and just about 175ish there was a pop followed by a serious supply of liquid and steam. Shut her down walked up front, and I need to redo my lower radiator hose lol.

 

My axle was locked in a limbo between locked and unlocked. The axle wouldn't move, and neither would the lock unlock part. I pulled it all off and put the new one on and it was all good. No excessive wear or anything so I cleaned it all greased it all now it works.

Ahh okay. That's a link I'll have to check out later. Sadly I'm already at work.


I noticed a little bit of atf behind my internal slave cylinder, so I'm leaning towards a bearing issue, but it's more of I'd almost say something isbwarped and its only thumping on the one side as it rotates. I'll get a video here tonight.

As far as my Dana 60 swap, I need just about everything. I'm gonna need new bolts, New tie rods, brakes axles it's gonna be a new axle eventually. So no I don't have a new pitman arm, or even figured out what suspension I'll use. However I do know that shackle reversal and superduty leaves will probably be involved. Along with ladder bars.

Diesel_brad has a set of 4.10 axles(sterling and Dana 60 front) for a grand. I know he has a locked rear and all kinds of stuff I'm just not sure I want to trip to pa for em. And I'm not sure the condition of all of the components and if I'll need to rebuild them also. He says they are good but why put a slightly used axle in when I can wait a few months and rebuild it to a new one?

My immediate future consists of exhaust cutouts, afr, steering stabilizer, and ladder bar system.