I've got no idea how to plug the hole, just clean up the one you have, sell it, and find one without the vac gauge. I'll let you know if I spot one.

Thanks for the complement Jeff. The core charge sounds like a great idea......hmmmmm, I'll have to tink about this. It would be best if I could do them in batches, if they need to be rechromed.

crazed - Thanks! I used Klean-Strip paint remover. I can't remember what auto parts store I picked it up at. IDK why they call it Aircraft paint remover because on the back of the can it says "DO NOT USE ON AIRCRAFT"
It contains Ammonia, Methanol and Methylene Chloride....nasty stuff. All I know is, it stinks, and it works. The 3M 6001 filter works great while using the stripper. I don't want you to and .



I printed a second set of gauge masks if any wants them. This is the section view of the small mask.


Just pm me if you want them.

Trozei - your set is in the mail.

There is one on eBay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-68-69-70-71-72-Ford-F100-F250-F350-Speedometer-Cluster-67k-miles-/371252113620?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item567059b0d4&vxp=mtr&autorefresh=trueIt looks pretty rough and it's got the vacuum gauge.

 

Well, fellas....I just got me a project '67 F100 Ranger a few weeks ago. It runs and drives ok, but the engine needs to be rebuilt and a lot of other knick knack things need some TLC. The gauge cluster didn't work when I bought it, so I've been researching threads on solutions and other possibilties when I fix it. After reading through this entire thread and looking at all the awesome pics, y'all have sold me on the F500/600/700 swap. I JUST bought me a bezel off of ebay that looks to be in pretty good shape! Guess the task will just be to clean it up and get some new, working gauges for it. Pretty pumped! Thanks for the great info.

 

The best part of any performance parts purchase is the stickers you get with the parts, right?!






I opened up all the holes to fit the gauges, while the bezel is still in primer. I have to figure out something for the signal lights, any ideas?

 

That gauge cluster looks awesome!!! The CCW vacuum gauge and CW tach. look sweet!

 

Looks great!

 

Good looking style of gauges in that cluster.

 

Nice gauges.

 

I'm painting mine right now.

 

This is a direct copy from my build thread, but I'm posting it anyway.

Before starting. I love chrome but only in moderation. This was too much to leave alone.

Attachment 290635

Disassembled.

Attachment 290636

The chrome was a bit hazy so that's what I was trying to fix.

Attachment 290637

Attachment 290638

I have about twelve hours in polishing on this gauge cluster.

Attachment 290639

I sanded down the faceplate, using sandpaper wrapped around a pencil to get in between the grooves. I used 320 grit.

Attachment 290640

Paint doesn't like to adhere to chrome so I made sure to scratch it up real good.

Attachment 290641

I used these 3D printed rings made my user Tomahawk and generously sent to me for free. Thanks again.

Attachment 290642

They sit like this.

Attachment 290643

After paint.

Attachment 290644

The paint I used ended up being super tacky and I found out after peeling it a bit that the masking tape needed to be cut off first before I could pull it off, like when you remove a baseboard in a house and don't want to pull up the drywall.

Attachment 290645

Attachment 290646

You can see that it's much more reflective but it's still not a perfect mirror.

Attachment 290647

Here's the pre-polish again for you to compare.

Attachment 290638

 

I might have missed it but what szes did you order? 4 inch for the center, 3 3/8 for the sides and 2 1/16 for the little ones?

 

Those gauges do look sweet. Good choice Mon.
Now what's he got planned for those three spots o the left. Let's see....push "START" button, "FIRE" out the tailpipes, and "EJECTION" seat? For those who refuse "A$$-Gra$$-or Cash, nobody rides for free?

 

Mine will be forward lights, reverse lights, and maybe underglow for some '90s flair.

 

You'll need to make yourself some sort of box that encapsulates the pointed arrow from behind and allows a light socket to be mounted at the back. That way, the only light that can escape is through the arrow slot. I would put a little LED in there because they're so small.

 

Jackson has a point. LED's light points forward. Not like a Laser but more than a standard bulb. So if you fab something to hold a left and right LED over the 2 arrows you can use the top two screw holes to bridge across.

 

I love this idea. Those screw holes aren't needed anyway with the aftermarket gauges. Makes perfect sense to put them to use. All you would need is some thin and narrow sheet metal bent like this _|--------|_ bridged across, viewed from above. Tap the flat portions for your screw and it will be plenty sturdy. Mount the LED with double sided 3M tape and you'll be set to go.