Ed has fixed FICMs for many members here at FTE and I haven't seen a complaint yet. Pretty amazing really as any business can have a hiccup.

If what's going on with repair is still a little fuzzy for you, the FICM has two boards as you saw, commonly referred to a "half shells". One is the power side and the other is the logic or computer side. As npccpartsman posted above the code you pulled is for a logic error, not a power error. So it's possible that there are two issues with it. Good news is FICM.com will check the whole thing out. No band aids or re soldering overheated components back to the board. They also have options on software and warranties.

To give you an idea of cost, a dealer repair (most would simply replace the FICM), would cost about $800 plus it would require a software flash that would be another $200. So right at $1k. And you would still have a FICM put together by the same people that made the failed one on your truck now.

The Dorman replacement power board available at the parts store may fix it for you but the jury is still out on the quality and there would be no check out of the logic side of your FICM. I don't think there would be much of a warranty either. I think sending it to Ed is a smart move.

 

ya i think im just going to get the basic services, sense i am the one that messed it up and i worked fine before. but they say there is a $50 charge for a burnt board and i am wondering if they consider my board burnt. Need to know price so i can send the check?

 

I'll try it again for ya. Good info BTW especially if you were broke down ar super tight budget.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...nal-parts.html

 

if i just get the basic services wont it end up being the same as buying a stock board?

 

well not like it matters i just read that international doesn't have the 7 pin version. So as soon as i hear from ed its going to be in the mail.

 

Just my thinking here but no, not the same. I suspect when they are made the boards are soldered on a machine using a solder wash. With EPA regulations on lead fumes, manufacturing by-products, etc. the solder isn't optimal for adhesion, conductivity, or mechanical strength either. What is deemed ok by quality control could be less than perfect also. If someone makes a proper repair by hand with good materials and verifies the value and condition of the components being installed and then tests it and warranties it, I think it's a better part.

 

very true, i just hope my board isnt trash. all it looks like to me is to solder in one of the components that came off and i hope its good. i guess this is what u get if you try to run power thru a ground

 

Well just got my FICM back from ed power board was finished, lucky he had any extra 7 pin laying around. So i hooked it all back up and it started. Now i have an exhaust leak and no power to the turbo. What I think it is is the exhaust feed at the back of the turbo. When i put it on i hooked up the y pipe to the turbo first than connected them to the manifold which didnt want to line up, but i got it in. I had to take the clamp off so the y pipe and turbo werent aligned and when i put it back together i was praying that the clamp would realign the fitting and seal back up. does anyone know if the clamp would realign the y pipe and turbo?

 

The clamp will not realign the ends, but can draw them together. If you pull the clamp off and the ends can be pulled together flat, you're good to go. If they can't be mated flat you've got more to do. Some anti-seize as a lube between the flanges and clamp will help the process.

 

Use a ratchet strap hooked to the y pipe and hooked to the radiator core and pull the two together and then clamp it down.

The clamp by itself won't close any gaps.

Josh