is there a secret how to to remove the relays i have a bad history of just put stuff out and breaking things?

 

IIRC no locks on those. they just pull out

 

So here is where i am at:
Work Done:
-removed turbo and cleaned
-changed ICP sensor
-egr delete
Process:
-took the FICM off to get more room during this broke both clips on the large plug and end up splitting the plug and the pins partially at first than jammed the plug back together(BAD IDEA). After assembly cranked no start threw a couple codes like P2552 about FICM after taking apart said plug found out a couple of the pin in the plug go pushed down into the plug. Totally splitting the plug may have put the plug back together the opposite way put back together more code like U0105 and U0306 (FML). took plug back apart and figured the right way to put it back together. Cleared codes (good idea?) and still no start.
- had to separate the intake manifold to remove the egr cooler, didnt remove the intake all the way so didnt change intake gaskets because im cheap and broke.
Diagnosis:
FICM- 47V while cranking
ICP- 2v while cranking
Fuel- took off the engine fuel filter and turned key on filled up fast.
Electrical-
checked under dash fuses/ relays:
#20 FICM relay- good
#22 Engine control- good
#36 PCM memory- good
#103 FICM power- good
#302 PCM relay- good
engine compartment fuses/ relay (picture above)
all good
Battery voltage:
test with the neg lead on one battery and the pos on the other
11.48v with key turned on
8-9v while cranking
and still nothing

 

cranking voltage should low so i am going to switch my battery charger to the 50 amp start boost and give it a whirl. Tried it and it almost started but than the voltage dropped to below 9v and it just kept cranking, i dont think my battery charger has enough power to start a diesel

 

Hook it to the passenger side battery, that's the main battery for starting.

 

well with the 50 amp boost on the passenger side no start just crank. So i borrowed a 200 amp boost charger and STILL nothing. The volts stayed at 10 while cranking so i dont think that is the problem so I am OFFICIAL out of idea.

 

Might want to read through this.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...condition.html

 

i have it printed out and am going to go over what ever i can. question is the RPM reading off of the Crankshaft sensor?

 

Did you ever figure out what was rattling around inside your FICM?

 

im trying to do that now i got a u0105 code so i am trying to get it apart i took out the 8 screws around the edge and the 2 that cover the test port do i need to take out the 7 that are under the cover

 

Well good news and bad
I found out what was rattling around:
[IMG]<a href="http://s1303.photobucket.com/user/jajones1988/media/rattlepiece_zps72b6af0e.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/ag144/jajones1988/rattlepiece_zps72b6af0e.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo rattlepiece_zps72b6af0e.jpg"/></a>[/IMG]
[IMG]<a href="http://s1303.photobucket.com/user/jajones1988/media/rattlepiece2_zps6e294156.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/ag144/jajones1988/rattlepiece2_zps6e294156.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo rattlepiece2_zps6e294156.jpg"/></a>[/IMG]

 

Here are some excellent pictures and directions. There's a lot of info in the Tech Folder. It's the third link down from the top here in the 6.0 forum.

FICM Photos by DrQuad | Photobucket

 

There we go this is what i found im pretty sure that piece is supposed to go in there

 

is there a way to test to make sure this didn't burnout injector 5 or 8

 

so i guess the next step is to send it out to ficmrepair.com and figure out why