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FICM problems

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Old Apr 29, 2013 | 03:48 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by jajones1988
if i dont have the the MAF sensor hooked up it should still start right?
It would run like crap, but I would think so....think I did that on a buddy's '07 to make sure the engine would atleast start.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2013 | 03:51 PM
  #17  
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can the be done without a scan tool?
 
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Old Apr 29, 2013 | 04:01 PM
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Did you disconnect the ground wire behind the FICM? Easy to miss when you're going back together. What were you working on? Exhaust leak? ICP/IPR?
 
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Old Apr 29, 2013 | 04:10 PM
  #19  
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what i did what clean the turbo, change the ICP sensor, egr delete. Does anyone now what the proper intake manifold pressure should be while cranking.
I am thinking that when i loosened up the intake manifold to remove the egr cooler. I should have taken the manifold completely off and changed the gasket. I am running the torque app on my android phone, and i can read the intake pressure. And yes the ground is connected to the last intake bolt.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2013 | 04:48 PM
  #20  
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does anyone know where the other end of the ICP wires go to?
 
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Old Apr 29, 2013 | 05:56 PM
  #21  
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Looking at a print: (I can't post it on mobile)

They all go to the same PCM connector 1381T. (One of the larger two)

BN/WH goes to pin #36 (5v VRef)
DB/LG goes to pin # 29 (Signal)
Grey/Red goes to pin #33 (signal return (or ground?))

If the pigtail has been replaced, all the wires at the ICP plug may be purple.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2013 | 06:37 PM
  #22  
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ok so i taped into the dark blue/ light green wire and with the key on i was getting 275-285mv and while cranking i got about 2 volts. is that good or bad?
 
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Old Apr 29, 2013 | 06:44 PM
  #23  
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so i did the calculations and according to swamp diesel i am getting 1500 PSI at cranking that sounds like ALOT?
 
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Old Apr 29, 2013 | 06:52 PM
  #24  
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My notes on ICP volts,
The bn-wh wire is a five volt reference, leave that alone. Strip back the db-lg signal wire and the gy-rd ground wire. Put positive lead on a dark blue-light green wire and negative lead on gray-red wire. Have an assistant crank truck, you need a minimum of 0.82 volts (500 psi) for the truck to start, if you are getting greater than that then you have sufficient high pressure oil.

Press Press Sensor
(PSI) (MPA) Voltage
0 0 .02v
200 1.5 .4v
400 3 0.73v
600 4 .96v
800 5.5 1.2v
1000 7 1.4v
1200 8 1.6v
1400 9.7 1.9v
1600 11 2.1v
1800 12.4 2.3v
2000 13.8 2.6v
2200 15.2 2.8v
2400 16.5 3v
2600 18 3.3v
2800 19.3 3.5v
3000 20.6 3.8v
 
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Old Apr 29, 2013 | 07:04 PM
  #25  
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ok i had the negative go strait to the negative battery terminal on the driver side, move the lead and got 214mv key on and and 1.887v, is there anything else to check?
 
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Old Apr 29, 2013 | 07:11 PM
  #26  
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I want to check the fuel pressure does anyone know of any auto parts stores like oreillys, napa, or even crappy auto zone with have a gauge for sale?
 
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Old Apr 29, 2013 | 07:15 PM
  #27  
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Also I am getting a intake pressure of 12.5 PSI is that enough? i didnt replace the intake gasket when i had to loosen up the intake to remove the egr cooler?
 
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Old Apr 29, 2013 | 07:17 PM
  #28  
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1300 psi seems a bit much but I think it's safe to assume it has enough HPO to start. Can you see map and EBP values ? Maybe a fuel issue?
 
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Old Apr 29, 2013 | 07:32 PM
  #29  
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if i can test it with a multimeter yes?
 
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Old Apr 29, 2013 | 07:35 PM
  #30  
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MAP (manifold pressure) should be the barometric pressure (baro) at your altitude, normally somewhere around 14psi with the key on, while cranking and at low idle . It should come up a bit at high idle, maybe 16psi. It has an operating range of 6-47psi.

Exhaust pressure (EBP) should be a touch higher 15, 16, 16, operating range 8-88psi.

Sorry, I don't have voltage measurements for those. I'm not familiar with the torque app but if you hunt around on there you may find EBP and MAP.
 
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