This weekend my 6.0 threw two codes a p1335 and a p0611

Looked them up on here and one is a FICM code and the other a EGR code.

On the way to the dealership today I cleared the code to see if the cel came back on right away like had all weekend.
It didn't come back on but I also didn't turn it off until the dealership and didn't start it back up when I was there.
The service adviser started giving me grief, (that's the polite version) about clearing them. He said they can't find out the problem if the codes aren't stored in there. I told him I gave him the codes it threw and he said the code has to be in there to be able to diagnose it.

Now I'm not a diesel mechanic, I can do the basics, oil, filters and such but what he said just didn't feel right. As long as I have the codes shouldn't they be able to diagnose a problem? I understand that if the issue isn't still causing a code problem it may be hard to know what to fix but these two codes I would think would be a little easier to diagnose the issue.

Just looking for opinions. First time since owning it that it's had to go in for something.

 

when you erase the codes you erased any freeze frame data that it may of had at the time the code was set . Its just better to leave the light on.

and you should be able to diagnos a ficm or egr without the light being on but only if it is still having problems at the time of the scan

you could have intermittened problems and would make it harder to diagnos

is this a warrenty deal

 

Factory warranty is done but do have a aftermarket warranty through dealer.

Thing that struck me was the truck ran fine and the FICM and EGR are way beyond me as to what the truck would run like if they were having issues.

Looking up the FICM code it looked like the ficm could just go and it wouldn't start. Other than that not sure.

Looks like next time I'll have to leave the cel and the codes.
Just not sure the service adviser should have given me so much crap when dropping it off.

 

I don't know how indignant the SA became, so I won't defend him outright. But you might want to reconsider how you deal with any technician. In general they don't want to work on something that you have already tried to fix and failed. They don't want to hear your opinion of what is wrong. And they don't want to hear about the things you already did trying to fix the problem. This is true whether it is your physician, or your auto mechanic.

We all like to try to avoid the dealer by fixing what we can ourselves. But too often we complicate the job for the professional we end up hiring to fix our stuff. Your SA probably gets a lot of that, and gets pretty tired of it. He was just letting you know.

 

Bill, I can't tell if I agree or disagree

Agree - how you present the info is key.....
Some I have worked with like to hear all the symptoms etc....
even our guesses - at east a good one should appreciate as much info as possible to make their job easier....

but a long time ago I did learn not to tell them my guess at what's wrong, for a couple of reasons:
1) Why would I ask them to do it if I know the issue?
2) because I do not want to influence their trouble shooting and lead them off into the wrong direction..

(since my group does software work and support I request as many questions be asked as feasible to see where the defect might be... and eventually an "oh, by the way"... may be the key to the resolution of either it's a process problem or a user problem )

 

I only told him what codes came up and what I found out the codes could mean. I only told him this because they were issues that could just stop the truck dead in it's tracks.
I know nothing about the inner workings of the truck so I only told him what the codes were and what I was told they meant. That's all. I also typed in all the info on their website to make the appt. He got pissy because I couldn't remember the exact codes. I asked him if he had all the info from what I typed in to make the appt and he said maybe. So I waited and he said it always doesn't pull it over. But after 30 second surprise he had it all. Then he proceeds to ask me what codes again. I said it's in the stuff I typed into the form. He again got pissy because I didn't have a list of them in my hand. (forgot it at home).

But I asked why do you ask for the codes and all the pertinent information when you say it doesn't always come over from the web into your system?
Mind you I was supposed to be dropping it off at night after they were closed so he wouldn't have been able to get pissy about asking me the codes as I wouldn't have been there in the morning when he opened.

And he wasn't even the service adviser that handled my truck, he got all mad when he found out the computer automatically assigned me to a different adviser.



well I did find out they couldn't pull anything related to the ficm. But they did get the egr code to replicate and advised to replace it, the front bearings are worn out he said, it's also contributing to a vacuum leak so they don't auto lock the hubs. That started this winter.
And the power steering pump is leaking out the front seal. They called the extended warranty people and they want to send an inspector before authorizing anything. I guess they also tried to back the SA into a corner and say that the egr was sticking due to carbon, if he said that they won't cover it. So he's trying to persuade them to cover a replacement instead of cleaning.

Second service adviser was a whole lot better than the first.

Guess I need to educate myself on diesel engines so I know if I'm getting screwed over or not.

 

Deleted, because I realized I misread.

 

sometimes we really need the freezframe data to fix the truck. in this case not so much.
we could run koeo, koer, egr self test and moniter ficm_m_pwr
but better off to just leave the light on for us.

 

Thanks cheezit, they said they found nothing wrong with the FICM but why would it throw the code all weekend and on the way to the dealership but none now and they said they couldn't find anything wrong with it?

Any specific questions I should ask them about the FICM testing?

Than you again for commenting on the thread, it really helps having this forum to learn and ask questions. Especially for somebody like me with no knowledge of diesels other than what I've learned over the past year of owing it.

 

alternator output or failing batteries would set it. could be an issue on the dc/dc board that when tested the cold solder joints looked "fine" when checking ficm voltage.
ford wont let us reflow a board as of yet.

 

I did notice this weekend when it was throwing the codes, the battery light would stay on for a few seconds after each start. Usually for around 2-3 seconds. Is that any indication? Batteries are brand new, 4-5 months old.

 

yup check each battery on its own. check the connections for excessive corsion

 

Cheezit,

Just curious if $505 is expensive for a egr valve replacement. $289 for labor. Seem a little high for something I just found out looks like I can do myself.

 

yes and no.
yes its alot of money. yes it taks 5min to r/i a valve.
the labor to diag it is 2.0 hours and .5 to repair. so yes its right and the valve is cheep

 

Cr#p I knew you were going to say that. Oh well, at least the extended warranty covered most everything else.

They replaced the bearings in front plus a new power steering pump.

Funny thing is they didn't at first because they said the truck was running a tuner when they saw my edge cs on the dash. I had to prove it wasn't a tuner. Then they didn't want to cover it because of the MBRP 4" exhaust. They said since I modified the exhaust the "truck" was modified and that violated the contract.
After a day of threatening they covered it. But wouldn't cover the egr as I guess I have a "carbon" clause in my extended warranty.


Quick question, when I picked the truck up it was loping like it had a miss. The low fuel message was on. It was so low I thought I had to get fuel before bringing it back to them. Well adding fuel got rid of the code and the missing. Does that low of fuel put it into some type of limp mode? Being that low did it hurt the injectors or pump? Just curious. The tech drove it 12 miles to test but it went in just under a quarter of a tank.