Cool. Right now, it's a 20 footer. My plan is to get it running right and then repaint with the original Wimbeldon White and Viking Red. Should be a head turner! Keep up the good work on your beast!

 

As I peel off more and more seam sealer, I am finding more rust...


Drip rail


Converted the rust, primed


New seam seal


Primed over



Passenger side firewall


Converted rust, then sealed (I'll sand it smooth)



Passenger side door jamb (After I converted rust)


Seam seal



Door jab where work was just done. Primed, sealer. Waiting to dry before last coat of primer



Deciding now on what to do with the frame. I have a few options. I can wire wheel it and paint, sandblast and paint, or POR15 and then paint it. A fellow user recommended I POR15 the frame, then coat with Hardnose paint. As much as I'd love to do that, I don't know if I can choke down $250 per gallon of hardnose paint... I'm open to suggestions



Jameson

 

I was finally able to get our sandblaster to work by extending the feed and air lines. The problem the first time was not enough air flow. Now that we have a compressor that flows 125cfm, it works

Starting out, I tried it on the frame. Took the paint right off.


Because that worked, I tried it on the rust by the drip rail on the passenger side. It also worked well.


The metal is badly pitted from the rust, and there are a few holes in it. I'll use glazing putty to smooth it out and fill in the holes.



Jameson

 

The best option is to sandblast/wire wheel your frame (your choice) and then POR-15 it.

But be aware.... POR-15 is UV SENSITIVE This means that once you put down some POR-15 on your frame, it will fade, lose hold and potentially crack in direct sunlight over a period of a few years (2-3).

But there is a fix for the POR-15 UV problem... "Chassis Topcoat" is a topcoat paint created from the makers of POR-15 that gets painted directly OVER the POR-15'd frame. Chassis Topcoat is NOT UV SENSITIVE. The procedure for the POR-15 + Chassis Topcoat paints are to:

1) Paint a single coat of POR-15 and let fully dry.
2) Paint a second coat of POR-15 (I highly recommend this because there are certain spots on the frame that will drag/pool POR-15 from high spots on the frame because of how well it flows with a brush/gun.... AKA, it's got a very low viscosity).
3) BEFORE the second coat has dried, but is still tacky; work with the chassis topcoat to cover the POR-15 in exactly the same order you painted the frame (front to back, back to front, etc) so that you get equally tacky areas to work with while using the Chassis Topcoat.

I've done a lot of reading on the POR-15 products and I've personally experienced their awe. POR-15 is much stronger than anything you could imagine that looks, acts and goes on just like regular paint, but actually stains the metal with a VERY TOUGH polymer-like substance.

I don't think I could explain much more about the POR-15 products except for the fact that you MUST get the "Metal Ready" POR-15 product that "bites" the metal and creates a "tooth" for the POR-15 to adhere to BEFORE applying any POR-15.

I highly suggest POR-15. I've used it, I've experienced how tough it is (ask about my 78/79 Lariat build if you don't believe that it's tough stuff), and I know it works very well.

Last note... USE GLOVES! POR-15 reads directly on the can "only time will take it off if it gets on your skin" and its the truth. This shtuff doesn't come off with gasoline or paint thinner. It's one tough ******.

 

Thanks for the info Aaron. I had also done quite a bit of research on POR15, and I was just trying to decide the best way to go about it

Not much else to report. Been busy dodging the rain and doing homework. Doesn't help that as of Daylight Savings time ending, it gets too dark to work at 5, and will continue to get worse

Got most of the rusty stuff done on the back of the cab. Right now it's just primed, and I'll be cleaning up the paint (feathering edges and such) when spring rolls around.


I also have a problem with that rust hole near the bottom. The outer layer of metal has rusted through, and started to rust into some more metal about a half inch (it's like a pit). I think what I'll do it carefully cut the top layer of metal around it, fill the hole, then patch a piece over the top. Open to suggestions though



Jameson

 

I now have the truck parked in front of the garage for the winter. The interior is almost all the way out again, with the wiring harness being the only thing left. This winter I'll probably focus on the interior, because it stays dry in the rain

I haven't decided if I want to keep the interior stock colors or not. Over the past year or so I've been going back and forth over color combinations, but had been stopped by the interior colors. Now I have a chance to change. I'm thinking I might just go with a black interior, that way any color I choose for the outside won't make the truck look funny. And since I have yet to finish the reupholstering of the seat, I can also change that.



Jameson

 

Also, in case anyone else is interested, there is a group buy going on for Redhead steering boxes that is being organized in the Excursion section of the forum. Order dates are in the first week of December. Currently, discounts are $50 off boxes $300 and more, and $40 off boxes under $300. If we get a few more people, the discounts go to $60 and $50.

I am thinking about joining the group myself. I wasn't planning on getting mine done until next summer or fall, but I now have the chance to get one for cheaper.... It's really enticing. I have the $200 I need, but it is in a savings account for a new car. Still have a week or so to decide


Jameson

 

Finally got the roof support put back up. I found out the hard way that because of the anti-rattle strips, there is a gap too large to weld without busting through the roof. I managed to get one side of it welded, and used some steel reinforced epoxy on the other side. Taped off and did two coats of rubberized undercoating



Now that I have that done, I'll start on the sound insulation materials for the floor.


Jameson

 

Yeah .... I'm still following the thread .... Great Job so far! Love the detail.

I too am probably going in on that red head deal Monday-Wednesday.

 

Thanks! Figured I bored everyone to death a while back

As much as I'd like to get my box done, I don't think I'll join up. The money I have is in savings for a new car, and I swore up and down that I wouldn't dip into it for anything else, so I think I'll wait Maybe I'll organize another group buy next summer.


Jameson

 

I just read through the whole thread, good work! I need to get back to working on my project. I know how you feel about the rain and no daylight thing, it's horrible this time of year.

 

In case my lack of updates didn't indicate, I'm pretty much done until the weather turns good again, and I get some free time into my schedule. I got another job at a local parts store, so I will hopefully be able to get cracking this summer and crank out some good work.

Since I've not been working, I've been planning. I can't decide if I want to make it a stock build, a slight mod, or make it a custom build. Slight mod would have things like custom front/rear bumpers, upgraded interior, and other small things. Custom build I would ditch the bed in favor of a flatbed, upgrade to a corporate 14b or sterling 10.5, and might get rid of the 460 in favor of a IDI.

Where I get caught up, is the truck isn't going to be a work truck anymore (I have my 87 for that). It's going to be a weekend warrior/summer show truck type deal. Part of me wants to go the custom route and do something different, but another part of me wants to keep it stock...

So I'm open to ideas what do you guys think?

 

'been wondering what happened to ya! yeah man, I call this the "Black Hole of Winter" when I don't get squat done on my toys. Plus I've been eaten alive with a house remodel so working on the Dent and Bump have been a no-go. On the somewhat bright side, I've been buying up parts for a 2013 thrash.

Hmm. A resto/stock or customized? Do both! That's a tough question if you only have one rig. What does the truck "want"? My 73 4x4 was pretty far gone from stock (swapped in 2WD cab, rust, lifted, big tires, etc) so it made the decision for me. It's got a new lift and camo paint among other things. My 70 was generally unmolested so it'll get a few mods but maintain most of its period-correct appearance for now with dog dish caps, 15-inch steel wheels, a roll pan, and minor lowering. Under the hood is where it will step-up up with EFI, a TKO-500, Sanderson headers, a 3G alt, dual batteries, etc. Down the road it may get some aero mods to see if I can squeeze out its last little bits to get 20 MPG with an FE. I've got a pretty good job so having the best of both worlds works out for me.

So, what is your rig asking for?

 

i must say you have a beautiful truck. if i were you i would go the stock route. i have the same truck and im curious to see how your interior turns out. i am pondering ideas

 

Mine is pretty darn close to stock. Nothing has been really hacked up (except for 2 holes for speakers in the back). That's why I've been leaning towards stock. I think what I might end up doing is do a resto-mod... Already it has a built engine and trans. So maybe I'll add a couple things here and there to make it mine, but nothing crazy.

Even if I had another dent, my 79 would still probably be the one getting the stock resto


Jameson