Yes. See above.

 

It has now been about 30k miles since I put the pump on. These are photos of the SECOND filter I have run on the truck since pump install. This filter has been on for about 10k miles. It is almost as bad as the first filter that went 20k miles, which confirms there is a LOT of CRAP still in the coolant system that needs to come out. The yellow tint in the sediment is from the hacksaw blade, so ignore that.





If there are still doubters as to the EFFECTIVENESS of the IN-LINE coolant filter, I don't know what to tell ya. I should have changed these filters sooner in hindsight.

 

Sorry if you posted already, what coolant are you running

 

I am using Peak Final Charge heavy duty ELC (CAT-1/OAT) coolant that the big rigs use. It is red in color and fairly pricey. I have also replaced the radiator since putting the pump in. Went with an all aluminum radiator, so the sediment is NOT coming from build-up in the radiator.

 

I'm running same coolant, thought about this conversion when my pump went but time & money pushed me to regular style. Theres always next time

 

Nice Mike!
I'm much happier now that I have a filter on the pump and not plumbed over my brake booster.
Also with the 205° thermostat I've seen slight MPG increase.

Appreciate all you posted up because it helped me immensely.

 

this is a copy from the owner of strictly diesel.
food for thought?

What most people think is casting sand is NOT! It's "silicate fallout" or "silicate dropout" from improperly maintained coolant...it's a sign of poor maintenance that has nothing to do with the casting process.

Coolant filters are a bandaid that doesn't address the problem. Furthermore, we've seen trucks where running a coolant filter actually seems to strip the important additives out of the coolant quicker (we use test strips to verify pH and glycol levels). These trucks showed poor coolant condition on the test strips in shorter amounts of time when the filter was installed.

You now see tons of coolant filters for sale for every possible application...all because of the issues the 6.0L had with plugging oil coolers...which had NOTHING to do with "casting sand" or "evil EGR" and EVERYTHING to do with improper maintenance. The companies that make coolant filters sell them as the "fix" for all of your casting sand and oil cooler plugging woes...and people eat it up and spend their money. The problem...after installing a filter most people think that they don't need to do anything with their coolant...they neglect it again, and again it degrades, the pH drops and the silicates drop out. Now, the silicates get stuck in the filter (whoa...my filter has casting sand in it...they were right) and they are no longer doing their job in the cooling system. The coolant is good for NOTHING except cooling at this point...it's broken and needs to be replaced because no additive can fix it once this has happened. But hey, the "casting sand" is gone and the truck isn't overheating and the oil cooler isn't plugging...so just keep driving...

The problem...the evil silicates that have been filtered out of the coolant aren't there to do their job. They are supposed to be in the coolant, where they form the protective barrier between the hot metal engine parts and the imploding air bubbles in the cooling system. Those imploding bubbles cause CAVITATION ERROSION, permanent damage to the interior metal surfaces of the engine. Wait, those nasty oil cooler plugging silicates served a purpose? They weren't just there to force me to have to spend thousands of dollars replacing my oil cooler and EGR cooler?

A little maintenance and knowledge goes a long way. Coolant additive and test strips are cheap insurance. We recommend checking your coolant at every oil change. If you aren't doing your own oil changes, quit going to Zippy Oil and letting some barely minimum wager look over your expensive diesel engine the same way he looks over a 1972 small block Chevy. Have a knowledgeable shop like ours look your truck over the right way, with the right tools. It could save you a bunch of money in the long run!

 

Thats why I asked what coolant, my assumption is you cant have silicate fallout if your coolant doesnt have silicate.

 

What enormiss said^

Helifixer, the info you posted is good info! It just doesn't apply here since my coolant doesn't have silicate in it. The old coolant did (green stuff), so there may be residual that I am filtering out? Not sure....but the filter is working! Anybody have a bypass filter they have cut open to inspect?

 

I believe that's all BS. Once the silicates have precipitated from solution into a form that a filter can catch they no longer offer any protection from cavitation.

 

I only have about 2,000 miles on mine so I haven't cut one open yet.
I am running CAT ELC in mine so I don't expect to see too much, I power flushed the engine for 1/2 hour before putting the elc in.

I have not researched this so I don't know. I do know the owners of Strictly diesel and they have always been straight and honest, until I research it this is only more information, not a cold hard fact

 

We've said that here in this forum for many, many years.

Izzy used to try and spread the word for quite some time using this pic.



Stewart

 

I need to replace my filter and will try and do it this weekend and I will cut it open. Its been over a year and about 40k since I changed it out.

Now what helfixer posted, it was on the internet so it must be true.

 

It's just as important to remove the silicate precipitate as it is to maintain the SCA's in the coolant. Engines are probably ruined by the abrasives wearing through the front cover just as often as by cavitation, maybe more often.

You can get filters that are precharged with SCA and kill 2 birds, so to speak.

 

Here ya go. We laptoppers can rotate the screen, please all you desktoppers don't hurt your neck. Anyway. That's the initial Baldwin that came with the Dieselsite bypass kit after 30k. Looks almost new. I'm running Ford Gold. I kept checking the temp of it expecting it to get cold as it plugged up and stopped flow, but it never did. New filter has approx 17k and I will wait for it to show evidence of plugging before I swap it out.