I tried to use the lower hose for the 5.9L Cummins...it is a couple of inches too short. Maybe it worked for the OBS trucks and that was why TARM and others put it on their list??? Also, no one else mentioned the wires for the CPS coming up short, and my harness is stock without modification.

 

Your pump just mit be a little different then the IH. You don't have to do any grinding of numbers and all so that mit be one clue. I believe I read people putting on this pump on the late models.

 

OK...I have edited the original parts list to exclude the two hoses I had listed. They will not work...too short. The ONLY hose I have found that will work is the Gates Flexihose FM124. It has ACTUALLY BEEN INSTALLED on a 2000 7.3L, and it works/fits. It is sold at NAPA for over $50. It is 25" long and is 2.25" on one end and 2" on the other. JEGS has the hose as well ($45), but it ships from the manufacturer with a one week lag time. If you plan ahead that might be the way to go. And here is another option...same price, though:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...&keyword=26517

Turns out a lot of people have repeated in posts here and there and everywhere that the Dayco 71716 and the NAPA 8763 will work, but none of those people have done this mod or actually tried the hose on a 99-03. The ones I have found that DID TRY the hoses have found they are too short...just like I found Oh well, I did volunteer to guinea pig this thing after all...

Without coolant, I am at $241 for the bare minimum on parts as follows:

Pump $145 (there is a place to get the pump for $127 free shipping, but they were out of stock when I ordered mine...that would bring cost down to $223)
1 - M8x1.25x110mm bolt $2.50
1 - -205 Viton o-ring $.50
2 - M8x1.25x60mm bolts $2
1 - generic short stem thermostat $12
1 - 45* fitting 1/2 NPT to 5/8 hose $15 (could get this cheaper)
1 - Lower radiator hose $52
1 - filter with no SCA $6
4' -5/8 heater hose $6

4 gal of Peak Final Chrge EC-1 coolant (red) $90 plus $7 for distilled water. The kicker here is you have to buy coolant no matter what water pump you put back in there, so it really doesn't go against this IH pump upgrade cost. This seems to me to be in line with the cost of a traditional Ford pump and an aftermarket coolant filter kit. Only with this you obviously don't clutter up the engine bay with hoses and mounts.

 

It looks good. One thing. When repairing the sensor wiring. Water proof heat shrink connectors should be used. The copper wires could turn green and cause a failure in the future. Or if you run threw water and it could cause the engine to shut down if the CPS wets out. Tape and plastic loom hold water and dirt.

 

Very good point, Poolguy. I will be picking some up today to put over the splices. I'm sure it isn't the only thing I have overlooked....

Update: I got the brush-on liquid electrical tape for a waterproof seal on my splices, then I put the red loom back on. I don't trust the heat shrink to be waterproof.

 

Well, the Gates FM124 hose is on the bottom. Like a previous pioneer, I had to cut a two inch long section from my old lower hose and slide it on the bottom inlet before sliding the Gates hose over that (like a bushing). Worked perfect, and the hose fits very well length wise (25"). I ran the truck, finished flushing the system with distilled water and tightened a couple of clamps down that a screwdriver did not get sufficiently tight. Put the EC-1 red in there and she is running great and leak free. Just in time for a freeze tonight.

On a side note, I had to extend the wires for the CPS. The truck started in about 3 seconds on the first crank, so no issues there either. I ended up with a 195* thermo, so we will see how hot/cool she runs compared to the 203* that was in there. I'll post a photo in here tomorrow.

The hose just clears the tie rod. If you trim it at the top and push it up farther, it will have better clearance.


You can see the rubber piece from the old hose in this photo. You really have to crank that hose clamp down tight.


You can see the red wire loom on the CPS up there.

 

You oughtta' stick that 203* in the For Sale section, as there are people that want to move to that operating temp.

Pop

 

I did, Marv. It sold in less than 8 hours along with a new stock Ford pump and new lower radiator hose! I did a package deal...

 

That should certainly help defray the cost of the cast iron pump!

I have enjoyed following your adventure here, and it should make a great reference in the future for others similarly inclined.

Pop

 

I have to admit I enjoyed figuring it out and doing something few others have. Glad I could provide insight to others that might consider this alternative for coolant filtration. I really believe this HD pump will last a long time.

If anyone needs a 110mm bolt for this project, a 3/4 NPT TO 1" hose 45* fitting for an OBS or a -205 o-ring, I have two good bolts, a fitting and 9 o-rings.

Edit: down to 7 o-rings and 1 good 110mm bolt. Someone from the 94-97 forums took me up on the offer above.

 

NicMike,
I have purposely been following this thread as I am starting to build confidence to install the bypass filter - then after reading all this, it seems prudent to do this WP - mine has never been replaced and is a 2000, so its due I am sure. I am starting a few other bypass's for now. NicMike, you mention a write up, I assume you will post back here when its complete? Is is super awesome and my GF always laughs when I get these projects going - of course only with the help of FTE members. I am trying to get a parts list together, its amazing how much better it is when someone has gone through all the part numbers, and place to purchase (WoodnThings has done this with the bypass filters for oil, etc...).

It's always funny when she see's me on the computer with my eyes piercing the screen - she knows I am reading FTE. Thanks for all the effort on the discussion, its a fun read, hopefully a fun project.

 

I guess this thread is the write up for the most part.

Truck is running great with the pump on. The 195* thermo I picked up from International is letting the truck heat up quicker in the mornings for the wife, and she is happy about that. Also, I am about to replace all the o-rings and lines on top of the engine, and it will be VERY NICE to not have the heater hose in the way in front of the HPOP anymore. Also won't have a little coolant mess when I have to disconnect it and move it to get to the fuel bowl bolts.

In the end, after figuring everything out, it was easier than I thought it would be. Anyone can do it in under 3 hours with the parts list provided. ANYONE!

 

Lotta work the way Mike did it. At least for me.

Like Robin stated earlier in the thread...

Looking at Nicmike's thread and comparing it to the 4 OEM pumps I've done in the past, I'll just stick to the Ford OEM unit.

I do like reading about the out-of-the-box thinking by Mike though!

Stewart

 

Stewart, if one were to have all the parts on hand when starting this swap-over, I don't see it taking more than 20 minutes longer to do than an OEM water pump. You don't have to paint it like I did, which accounted for an hour on my install.

I do understand the filter is primarily for the SCA factor, but I can also see it helping to extend the life of the engine even if you don't use a SCA charged coolant. Aren't there quite a few folks putting aftermarket coolant filter setups on their trucks while running the HD ELC? This is the same concept. You get a heavy duty pump, move the hose out from in front of the HPOP and you get the filter in a better spot at the same time. It would also be a good time for someone to throw in the max AC assist valve if they don't already have it, since it attaches in line to the heater hose that gets moved (you can see it in one of my photos). I think it is a fair trade off in the end. The cost is certainly NOT prohibitive at about $220-240 to complete the job.

I'd do it again knowing what I know now...but I'd save a few $$$ not having to figure things out! This isn't for everyone...this mod is best suited to the person that wants a coolant filter and NEEDS a water pump. That way you aren't out any money you wouldn't have spent anyway.

 

Well, as I read through everything I didn't think it sounded that bad. Generally when I do these projects I have you guys right next to me, but for some reason WP removal, etc.. .just scares me. But I will build my confidence and do the engine oil bypass, then maybe next time I do my tranny oil change I will do the bypass then. After I do the oil, I really want to try and change out the coolant - after seeing y our pictures, etc.. and knowing it has never been flushed just makes me want to go do it NOW . I will be re-reading this thread several more times before I attempt it. I like the idea of the WP that has the filter is ideal. My WP is fine, but if the costs are not too much then I would do it. Although the kit at diesel site isn't bad, I just don't like that filter hanging out there.

Thanks again FTE fellas, I love this projects.

I fixed my LED overhead directional/gas avg lights today, also installed a battery tender and connected everything to a single cord so the heaters and tender are all fed from one source. Yahoo.

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