Sure. There is INITIALLY some sand, but after filtering the coolant for a few years, don't you think you'd get it all?

Sand, once filtered out, is gone.

Precipitate continues to be produced as long as there are SCA's "dropping out".

Pop

 

Here is an article that explains cavitation erosion and how the precipitate forms from the SCA's. Cavitation Erosion - DTS Articles - Articles - Articles - DTS
This why I initially installed my coolant filter, after a thorough flushing, to extend water pump seal life and later switched to the ELC.

 

I did cut one of the old hoses for the gasket effect, but I might have cut it too long. Is it better for the cut piece to stick out past the ribbed portion on the radiator?

 

The piece I am using is only 2" long. No problems here...

 

Hi guys,<O</O
I have been following the forum a while and finally thought it was my turn to contribute. <O</O
<O</O

My water pump is leaking and (I assume) the bearings are squeaking (crying), begging for a replacement before the things fails all together. Although my initial intentions were to piece the components together for the international t444e pump install I decided to bite the bullet and purchase the dieselsite kit (399.99 + 25 ish in shipping, 3 days).<O</O
<O</O

I know... could have picked up a stock replacement for about a 100, but I liked the filter option, the cast iron (and pre ground and repainted diesel site) pump with the built in filter, the original international thermostat, new bolts, new billet housing, the shut off valve for filter replacement, and the custom lower hose. Plus it looks stock and I'm not splicing radiator hoses to add an aftermarket filter.<O</O
<O</O

Once the kit gets here I'll take some pictures, weights, document the install, and post any problems I run into. <O</O
<O</O

Kudos to Nicmike for taking this on the hard way (or the fun way depending on how you look at it ha), but wanted to provide another perspective for individuals who run into this problem down the line. I guess to give some pros/cons of sourcing it yourself vs. buying a kit from somewhere.<O</O
<O</O

Ohh and forgive me for joining as a free member, its South by SouthWest here in Austin and I left my wallet in my truck parked about 20 blocks from my downtown office... I fully intend to contribute. <O</O

 

Take some pictures of the install to post here if you can. We always like to see how folks like there new purchases and how easy they are to install.

 

I also can't thank Nicmike enough for the time to document this process. I tackled it the other day due to my OE pump squeaking and this thread made it a breeze. I spent more time painting and prepping the pump than actually installing it. I've been meaning to get pics of the finished install to post on this thread. I'm glad someone dredged it up.

Reps to Mike.

 

Anyone know if IH pump has heavier duty bearings and heavier duty seal in it?

 

Don't know Jay. How's that S & B cold air intake with the 38R sound. Is there a lot of whistle? What's the riffraff wrap, haven't heard of that before.

 

Heavier duty than what? Certainly heavier duty than the OEM aluminum pump (and heavier period!). The company that makes the alternative to the IH "high cost" pump reports they use a bearing that exceeds the requirements of IH on their pump. Only they know for sure if that is true, but that is so with anyone's advertising until proven otherwise. Bus Parts Experts still has the best prices on the non-IH pump, and they frequently offer discount codes for 10-20% off their parts for the T444E.

 

Sounds awsome, can hear turbo still spoling after shutting engine off. The riffraff wrap is basically a cover for the filter that traps larger particles before the filter gets them.

 

Ahhh, then the RiffRaff Wrap is basically one of Pete's covers.

At least that's how some of us who have been here for a while would know it.

Pop

 

I know I have not jumped back on here since the post early on but I do want to point a few things out.

One I have had both the IH and the Eastern Industries. IN fact the one I put on my Excursion (so 99-03 not OBS) was an Eastern Industries I swapped with a guy that needed the new OEM pump I was no longer going to use. It went on identically as the IH with only one exception. One spot you had to grind a bit more of the extra boss ( not used) for the pulley clearance. That could also vary with slight casting differences as I am willing to bet both Alliant and the Eastern Industries both get the castings from the same China source.

I need to apologize from some incorrect info in my list of my other post. I had reviewed the list I put up but must have messed up with the copy and paste and put up the old list I had before I had done the job. You are 110% correct on the 5.9 hose not working on the 99-03 but does on the OBS. I did as Nic did and just used the old hose to cut a piece for a bushing and all was good. NicMike you are correct so many people just parrot what others have written and either did not take the time to check or are giving the appearance, intention or not, as if they have done the swap when in fact they have not and are only regurgitating info. Infact I found out the hard was as you did and why updated my info of course if you post the wrong list you have helped no one

As far as the CPS wires I have no idea why you had to lengthen yours. I have done two IH and EI and both worked fine. You had to be careful to route it flush down the side but without a doubt it fit fine without lengthening so maybe something was a bit different with your wiring harness setup.

As far as concern over time versus putting on the Ford OEM. If you have the parts it can be done in all but 5-10 mins longer at most. I should know as I have done more than my share of ford pumps over the years. ( am not a pro mechanic just to be clear) That is to do the 1 min of grinding which is only a 1" raised area. The other for cutting the bushing but that is no longer necessary which I will get to why at the end of this post. The last bit of the 10 min to swap out the oring. Ok say 15 mins to be safe as I usually have to go find where one of kids put the angle grinder.

Also do not forget you are not only getting a pump but a full integrated coolant bypass filter as well. Consider the time if you were doing one of those as well. I am willing to be it would far less time total. Also you no longer have extra points of failure nor are bypassing your t-stat as you do with the typical way people install their bypass filters into the degas bottle. Not a big deal for those not far up north but for those that are top of the US or into Canada and Alaska it has proven to add noticeably more time to warmup by a couple that documented it.

Honestly if I had OEM pumps and they lasted say 100K I would not feel much like needing a change either so if that is the case I understand. For me and a number of others by 200K they are on their 4pump which is completely unacceptable in my book.

I had gone thru OEM factory pump by 60K and then the factory replacements lasted 12-18 months ( I went thru a total of 3 pumps by 100K.

BTW this is just an FYI on motorcraft parts. As many know many manf corps have plants in many countries. Many have US and China or India or Mex etc.. What happens is Ford may dictate that the actual factory OEM part must come from the USA plant but the motorcraft replacement can be from a foreign factory. A fine example of this is the Motorcraft batteries. If anyone has a OEM from the factory you will see its USA stamped. Go buy one from Ford or other vendor and you will see its a Mex stamp. Ford has started over the last 5 yrs pulling more and more parts from China plants. So no longer is OEM USA and infact it looks to be less than ever before. BTW the motorcraft batteries are a shadow of their former selves.

Back to the water pumps.

Some new updated info. I have had the Eastern Industries version of the IH pump (not the alliant) in my Excursion now since 2012. Its still running strong. By now I would likley be getting ready to start smelling coolant around the front grill after shutting it down after a drive on my second Ford pump in that time. It always started with that which was quickly followed by a puddle of coolant from the weep hole. So this at least for my engine has been a much better choice.

The bypass filter is nicely tucked out of the way so not taking up more room in the engine bay as a aftermarket bypass would. I have also found it quite nice when I pulled my hpop out that I had not heater hose and port right in the middle of the access port.

On the parts side of things there is some new offerings. Bob of Diesel Site who makes a very good bypass kit and has for years for some time has been offering a fully IH alliant pump swap kit. It comes with everything you need from what I understand to do the swap. The best part is he has has proper lower rad hose made for the 99-03. No flex or bushing stuff.

Other Vendors are also reselling this but they get it from Bob. It comes also with his Billet housing as well. So you need to consider all the costs of the various parts.

Here is the list:'
Fits: 1999-2003 Ford Powerstroke 7.3L
International Water pump with Coolant Filter Kit

• 205 Thermostat,
• DieselSite billet aluminum thermostat housing,
• custom lifetime silicon lower radiator hose, stainless steel housing bolts,
• all plumbing hardware for conversion
• 3 Baldwin 5134 Coolant Filters
• and high quality bolts for installation
• Will not work on Dual Alternator Trucks

Price I saw was $399


Also and this may be very important to others the pump is already modified. Meaning, its already had the areas that needed grinding done. The t-stat and billet housing is also already installed. Basically, for the pump itself, its bolt on, nothing more to do. Even less than a OEM pump as the housing and tstat are even done for you already. Here is a link to the instructions so you can see for yourself: Diesel Site IH water pump kit instructions


Considering the bolts, tstat, 3 filters, billet housing, as well as the proper custom hose (even the flex are $50 and they still have to use a bushing) its not a bad deal for $399. Especially as you do not have to run around getting it all and making sure you got the right parts. Compare that to the cost of one ford pump billet housing and bypass filter kit. When you consider the track record for duty life really you could make a serious argument to compare it to at least 2 ford pumps as the IH seems to last at least 2x longer and likley more. Of course result I am sure will and do vary.



With this kit I would say now it takes no more time or extra know how to install this pump than the OEM Ford ones.



But this also shows just how popular this upgrade has become since I have done mine and well before that.


I will be calling him up soon to purchase the formed proper lower rad hose that is for sure.


Also wanted to highlight that without doing some mod work these pumps do NOT work with the Ford Dual Alternator setups. This actually is how I got my EI pump as a very good guy goes by the name Tycorr on PSA had tried it before this was known and found it did not work without modding the bracket which he did not want to do at the time. He made me a fantastic deal for swapping pumps and was super prompt and all around fantastic do deal with. It nice to find people such as this as is becoming more rare all the time.


It was because of this I even used the EI pump and now I am very glad I did as I so far have found it to work very well.


So for those that may want to do this upgrade but finding all the parts etc has them a bit leery there is now a full kit with detailed instructions so you have everything you need all in one package from one source. Not to mention you get the billet housing etc as well and there is no grinding or modding of any of the parts. Its a straight install so to speak.


Nicmike, you can also see in the instructions for the kit there is nothing about having to lengthen reroute etc the CPS harness. I think you had something unique about yours. More for others than you I guess as you did what you had to do given what you found on your setup.


Hope this is of some help to others looking into or planning on doing this upgrade/swap.

 

Is there a write up on doing the IH pump on a dual alt truck?

 

TARM, thanks a bunch for coming in and adding a ton of useful info to this thread. I will be getting that custom radiator hose as well if he will sell it by itself. The flex hose works, but with the "redneck bushing" it is susceptible to leaking eventually as the rubber ages. No idea why my CPS harness would not reach. It is possible it had been shortened at some point in its life prior to me purchasing the truck.