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Also I did notice while driving around today that the dual stabilizers do stiffen up the steering a bit, gives it a firm feel. Which is nice in my opinion, the Saginaw is so powerful that without them it felt like the wheel wasn't even connected to anything.
Wow thats good. How much did the 2 Ranchos cost you? When i got my stabilizer i wish i could have gotten the Rancho but i didn't really have the funding. I like the look of them with the red and white and the red dust boot cover.
Ah that isn't too bad, When i was looking at your pictures it took me a while to figure out how they are bolted and how it worked. It almost looked like they were just on the bar alone where it wouldn't move. Kinda confused me for a minute.
Sorry to back track fellas.. back to the PS upgrade i know the bracket and hoses are from a ford econoline mid 90s v8 however where do you get the saginaw pump and pulley? Just aquired my bronco last week always wanted one to haul my kayaks to the lakes and streams. Im a mopar man at heart though... this tired 5.0 needs all the help it can get. Also will is that 7.3 diesal alternator a direct replacement on the 5.0 as well?
Sorry to back track fellas.. back to the PS upgrade i know the bracket and hoses are from a ford econoline mid 90s v8 however where do you get the saginaw pump and pulley? Just aquired my bronco last week always wanted one to haul my kayaks to the lakes and streams. Im a mopar man at heart though... this tired 5.0 needs all the help it can get. Also will is that 7.3 diesal alternator a direct replacement on the 5.0 as well?
yes, you need a e van pump and pulley as well. the 94+ style bracket can use the 130amp di 95+ 7.3 di turbo alternator
Sorry to back track fellas.. back to the PS upgrade i know the bracket and hoses are from a ford econoline mid 90s v8 however where do you get the saginaw pump and pulley? Just aquired my bronco last week always wanted one to haul my kayaks to the lakes and streams. Im a mopar man at heart though... this tired 5.0 needs all the help it can get. Also will is that 7.3 diesal alternator a direct replacement on the 5.0 as well?
I used the pulley that was on the pump from the van. The pump I ordered from Advance auto. The alternator upgrade is only bolt on for the 94+ style as JK mentioned.
Okay... so the pump on an econoline is a saginaw pump its the pulley that would have to change due to the style of belt used.. thank you much gentleman now have a small list startes for a trip to the local pull parts shop ;-) luckily in metro detroit these old fords are plentiful.
I crawled under the Bronco today and started cleaning evereything up. I found a good number of my oil pan bolts were loose so hopefully tightening them helps cure my oil leak. i also need to do something with my pan. I don't feel like replacing it right now so I may sand it down a bit and paint what I can.
Hey, Edgethis, you know how you bought replacement spindles and knuckles just in case something went wrong when you did your balljoints? I think I said I was going to do the same.. or at least I thought it.. well, today figured I would tackle my balljoints without replacement spindles and knuckles and .. well, lemme just say that you made the right move.
My spindle is stuck as stuck can be. Heat, PB, WD40, Spindle puller/slide hammer, chisel, hammer, sledge, dead blow .. I'm guessing it hasn't been pulled since new, still the same original spicer ball joints on this side, what a huge pain in the a$%. I have one more 'tip' I've heard from someone about hammering the backs of the studs but I'm tired, can't feel my arms and it's late :P
Just curious Edgethis, what has been the toughest job you have done so far on your build? You act like things go smoothly for you all the time, but I know how some of the work actually is behind the scenes.
edit: and yeah, I have a replacement oil pan in the garage, it has been there for a year. When I went to check how bad it would be to change, I noticed that some of the pan bolts were loose. I tightened them and it doesn't leak at all.
Dunno if I mentioned but also check your exhaust manifolds as well.
I actually still have those knuckles and balljoints still sitting here. After tightening everything up the old ones are still good, sop I decided not to open that can of worms till the time comes.
As for the hardest job, it was definitely tearing that passenger side knuckle apart. It took me hours and hours of merciless beating on the d@mn spindle for it to come off. Most everything else has gone pretty smoothly. Everything I do to the engine I make sure to soak the bolts at least 2-3 times daily for a week prior. So far I've been lucky and that seems to have helped me dodge any broken bolts. Sometimes the easy projects actually become my hardest. Heck replacing the rear shocks last week was a chore. The bolts were rusted beyond anything, plus the bushings were crap and seized to the bolts/studs, making it a nightmare to try and remove the shocks. I ended up cutting the old bolts off with a hacksaw and pounding the leftovers out with a hammer and punch.
I make sure tho, that everything I remove gets new Grade 8 hardware if possible and I always use anti-seize. I hate having to re-do something I've already fixed/worked on but at least that way I know it won't be as bad as the first time.
You'll learn that cutting bolts off is usually easier than trying to break them free. I don't know if you have got into your rear springs yet, but the shackle bolts can seize into the shackles and make that job a real pain.. a week of creative methods to get it loose, then maybe an hour cutting the dang bolts off?
If I can cut, I usually do from now on.
when it comes time to do the spindles, I learned of an awesome method that worked when the spindle puller, the hammer, heat, etc didn't work. I got a 5 ton jaw puller, hooked it onto the spindle nuts (used both so I didn't strip them) and used the end of the axle shaft to press against. After tightening it as far as my breaker bar + my strength would allow, i hit the spindle a few times with a dead blow hammer and heated it with a torch and eventually it broke free. One side, pop and a poof of rust, then the other side, it was still stuck on the bottom because when it completely broke free it did so with so much force the spindle actually flew off and hit me in the leg and it was still smoking hot, luckily I was wearing jeans :P
Had no clue but my axle joint is bound up (I doubt I used enough force with the puller?), I bet it was causing control issues I had no clue existed. This thing is going to feel great once I get it back together.
Speaking of, did you get as far as your u-joints in your axles? I mean, I had ZERO clue mine were bound up. I actually found a lot more problems than I know existed once I got my knuckles off, my seals are also completely shot for example.
The bottom ball joint doesn't move smoothly at all and binds up really bad towards the end of the turn before the steering stops, I mean, enough binding that I couldn't turn the knuckle all the way by hand!
I am sooo glad I finally got around to doing this job.
If you gave up because of that HORRIBLE spindle, trust me on the jaw puller method. With this thing I would have been able to do one side in maybe 3 hours including forcing the ball joints out.
Also, FYI, you'll learn going through your Bronco that the bolts don't really ever break, usually you or your tools will first. I've all but dumped my 3/8 sockets, they're just about useless for working on anything outside of the engine compartment.
It's one reason I love (and hate working on) this thing, I feel like every part, every nut, bolt or piece of metal is built over-sized.
Unfortunately the tool set that I was given is all Snap-On and it really only has a 1/2" ratchet and socket set. The 3/8" is there but i use it less then the 1/4" set. It has a full set of ratchet wrenches too.
I did get to the joints at either end by the knuckles but they seemed fine still. I plan to replace them when i have the front diff rebuilt and re-geared. Thankfully i coated both spindled with anti-seize when I put them back on.
I haven't tackled the rear spring on the Bronco yet, but I remember doing them on my 78. Major PITA but not too hard.
I get a bit worried hearing all these horror stories about breaking the water pump or header bolts, so it makes me be extra careful, so far tho I haven't had any issues with that.
I broke my water pump bolts, that wasn't fun. Haven't touched my manifolds yet and don't plan to, everything that can go wrong with my Bronco does. Soaking my axle joints overnight, they wont budge, and if Im having this much trouble with those? The ball joints are gonna be impossible. Thiking about going to a shop to have them all pressed out
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