My 05 has factory 4 pin and 7 pin. I use a tekonsha voyager that's been in my last three trucks. Thankfully on the Fords, they were all wired the same, so I just plugged it in to each new truck. I removed the OBD plug from the metal bracket and bolted my brake controller to it. Solid as can be without dash holes and I can still get to the obd plug.

 

I may have to upgrade after looking at the new p3's!

They have a 5 trailer setup memory! That in itself is nice!

Tekonsha P3 Electronic Brake Controller review | Trailer Brake Controller

 

I towed my camper all the way from Lake Charles Louisiana to Watford City ND without trailer brakes at all. I fixed them now with a new 7 way and a new pigtail that connects to it, now to drive my camper 1700 miles back to NC with my 2wd truck heh heh. At least snow doesn't stick to the roads up here much, just gotta make it out of the solid ice campground lol. Maybe watch out in West Va mountains though.

 

I thought it was a better solution, but they charged me almost $500 to put it on. Now, I'm not so sure.

 

I installed mine myself and wish I had paid a shop to do it. I'm fairly well equipped (though without a set of torches) and it took me all of a weekend plus Monday afternoon. Be happy !!!

 

He knew it was going to be a job before he started. He warned me. I don't think he wanted to do it.

 

Fuel tank had to come out, even though Curt claims you just loosen the bolts. Then a bunch of the welded nuts inside the frame rail broke free (and spun freely) with the bolts halfway out. I used a grinder to cut the bolts off and then needed all new hardware since the original was junk at that point. I'm very happy with the hitch, but what a job to install !

 

That is what he said. I'm sure he didn't want to do it because it would cost more than he thought it was worth, and that the customer would be unhappy as a result. I didn't buy the hitch from him either. I'm lucky he would install it. A lot of shops wouldn't. But I'm a pretty good customer. I have some project about every year, usually on the trailer, and he is about half the price of the RV dealer. $700 is a lot cheaper than a new truck.

 

What should I do first, a Hellwig sway bar or airbags, I wish I could do both a the same time but I have to settle on one or the other right now.

 

I had a Roadmaster Active Suspension installed in the middle of my first trip. I thought it was unsafe without it. I still haven't installed the sway bar. Do the spring upgrade first.

 

I would do the sway bar. Airbags almost sort of add to the sway without a bar because when one side compresses it sends the air to the opposite side increasing the body roll some.

 

It won't send air to the other bag if each of the lines are ran to individual fill valves.

Generally I only will install them this way.

Re the poster w the P3 turned down that is pulsing.

The P3 Controller is great, but keep in mind if that you plan on engaging the manual lever over in a panic stop it will max out at what you have the controller set at.

The idea behind it being proportional is that you don't have to engage it manually. I do use mine manually to warm the brakes and create brake draw in the instance I get a tad of sway.

I own a Hitch shop and tow several trailers regularly. It's the only vocation I've been in and have 18 years doing it. I am not an online sales company and don't / won't ship parts, mostly
service, repair, and installation. Per forum rules I am not interested in obtaining sales but giving my thoughts with a little bit of history on my self in regards to credibility and experience.

If anyone has questions on parts related to the towing industry I'd be happy to help. Axles / suspension / WD hitches/ airbags / electrical / brake controllers / tow bar setups (uncommon for an EX ) etc.

To clarify, I'm not an RV tech, just a hitch/tow/trailer guy and might be able to give a hand or info.

Stewart please edit / advise as needed if this post is out of line.

 

That is true and is also dependent of the system used. On our work truck we have an on board pump which yes I will admit with a second solenoid could separate the sides. However we have found that the stock push lock fittings suck and leak all the time. So the system needs more air every few hours (glad we have the pump on board). If the sides were separated this would cause a problem with one side leaking down faster than the other. Even more of a problem if you don't have an on board pump and need to fill with a compressor. At least with both sides connected if one side is leaking down both sides will always be equal.

Attachment 290594

Attachment 290595

 

Good point on them being leakers. But having separate let's you know which side is leaking and you can fix it.

But if a guy is going to pony up for a compressor, he should get the gauge kit with two needles/valves and they can be monitored / filled / dumped on the fly.

https://www.google.com/search?q=firestone+2178&biw=360&bih=615&source=lnm s&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=0WP8VM6UJI3qoATSyoK4DA&ved=0CAo Q_AUoAA#imgrc=EDSvDg2sskQB0M%253A%3BlI4JHhvKSXrOIM %3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.etrailer.com%252FMerchan t2%252Fgraphics%252F00000001%252Fpics%252FF%252F2% 252FF2178_2_1000.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.etra iler.com%252FAccessories-and-Parts%252FFirestone%252FF2178.html%3B1000%3B491

I'm on my phone, hopefully that image link worked. It's the gauge panel in the 2178 Firestone kit

 

The kit we got did come with the gauge and twin needles. That is how we know it leaks down on the road.

I did find it interesting though when I tested the two inputs on the gauge with the compressor in the shop one side would show 125psi (max output of compressor) and the other showed 110 with the same input.