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So the TT has been at the dealer we bought it from for almost 3 months. We had a laundry list of issues that needed to be fixed. The bathroom door is the last hiccup! It is warped/twisted almost 1/2 of an inch and the manufacture will not replace it.
Since we have had the TT and used it oh say 10 times in 3 months we had to replace 1 support jack 2x's. They put the next quality level jack on that corner and told use we owed them $595 if we wanted to replace the other 3! The jacks are 50 each! lol
As far as the condensation go guys. Try cracking the roof vents just a bit. And use a box fan to circulate the air.
It's time to slowly get my EX in towing shape. We plan on buying a travel trailer this fall. I would say it'll be 25+ feet and every bit of 6500 pounds. What's some things that are a must to get done? List any brand suggestions you have.
The retaining pin hole on the stock X hitch has become elongated due to wear and tear. Has anyone else had this problem? I was thinking of having a welder drill 2 small plates and weld them over the existing holes. The easiest solution would be just to add metal material around the hoke and redrill it, but I don't know if the welding slag will be strong enough. The slop in the hitch has caused me to have to use the maximum tilt on my WD hitch.
It has been mentioned here on fte before about welding on patch plates to the side of the receiver holes and redrilled. It is a "good" fix, just be careful not to overheat the hitch tube itself to much to weaken it.
Adding the extra thickness of the two patch plates might make getting the safety clip through the hitch pin tight. Is some of that extra drawbar play due to wear and some stretching of the receiver tube on the EX? If so it might be time to look at the Curt replacement hitch, less than $200 to your door and better weight ratings than the factory unit. And no rust or wear!
I wonder if some people that see these wollowed out pin holes have the problem because of loose fitting receivers? I believe most times the cast or forged receivers are looser than the tube type and flop around in the hitch tube more than the tube type. That flopping and moving around I would think is what would wear out the holes faster. Not so much the forward and back "wear" but the side to side and up and down wearing.
Snow, I had installed a Curt 2" receiver on our old Honda CRV, got the bigger tube so all of our stuff would fit, like bike racks and such. Problem was that 2" tube on the receiver was just a tad too big and everything would flop and rattle around in the hitch. My fix was to drill a hole on the bottom of the tube forward of the pin location then I welded a nut over the hole, threading a bolt through that and putting some tension on the drawbar took nearly all of the rattle away.
And I agree that the solid drawbars tend to be a whisker smaller than tube bars.
This is a much better solution for me. My hitch is pretty badly rusted; a layer or 2 of metal has already come off. My TT has a GVW of 9,000 pounds, so I don't want to take any chances.
The Curt hitch on my BMW (96 328i convertible) is loose too. I bought some wood shims and pound them in with a hammer, then tape it to prevent it from backing out before I hitch up.
I just bought a rock wood 2703 and towed it about 700 miles. Kinda thought since this was going to be a one time trip I wasn't going to worry about a wd hitch. I've never been so scared in my life. Was going over the Delaware memorial bridge and the wind was blowing pretty hard and I thought I was going over the side. My wife looked over just after I crested the center and saw a tear running down my cheek and asked if I was ok since my knuckles were white also. Thought that was always a joke. Made it down and drove very slowly after that. I have v& b's and the motor is great but if your gonna tow don't be a jackass like me and think you'll be good. Trucks going by were pretty 'exciting' also. Once the air pressure wave hit the back of the camper the ex wanted to turn bad.
You are going to need a weight distribution anti-sway system (I use Reese Dual Cam, I think they have given it a new name) and something to stiffen up the rear of the X. I use Roadmaster Active Suspension, but others use Landyot radius rods, airbags, and an F-250 rear spring pack. A sway bar isn't absolutely necessary, but is recommended.
Was gonna buy a Reese straight line but the camper is gonna be parked for 18 months so I figured it was no big deal. I was wrong. The rear is plenty stiff but it needs to be tied to camper
The retaining pin hole on the stock X hitch has become elongated due to wear and tear. Has anyone else had this problem?
Originally Posted by Snowseeker
I wonder if some people that see these wollowed out pin holes have the problem because of loose fitting receivers?
I know the elongated holes has also been attributed to the standard "bent" hitch pins being used....
...and not the straight "barbell" type hitch pin.
Since I use the Strattec locking hitch pin....
....which uses the ignition key of your vehicle to lock and unlock, and it's like the "bent" pin pictured above, I do what is recommended for the "bent" pin users and install a hose clamp on the bent end to keep the elbow from elongating the hole on the hitch.
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