When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Finished getting RB 435 transmission's input shaft seal changed and drive train re-installed. Project ensued over five weekends. 1977 F-150 4x4, 400. Had to remove bench seat, shifter, entire floor mat, NP 205 transfer case, Cross Member, transmission,, passenger side header, starter, bell housing, flywheel, backing plate and oil pan to change the deformed rear rubber oil pan gasket. The cross member was very difficult to get out and read an old thread (~ 2003) whereas an old forum member encountered same difficulty, and suggested grinding off ~ 1/6 from both ends and rounding the corners off. I did that and installed was not difficult. I even removed the cross member after I got it back in place to see if I could notice removal being easier and it was allot easier. Good advise from the old / former forum member. Next weekend have to replace driver's side door opening weather stripping, tore it getting in and out of the truck while removing shifter.
Finished getting RB 435 transmission's input shaft seal changed and drive train re-installed. Project ensued over five weekends. 1977 F-150 4x4, 400. Had to remove bench seat, shifter, entire floor mat, NP 205 transfer case, Cross Member, transmission,, passenger side header, starter, bell housing, flywheel, backing plate and oil pan to change the deformed rear rubber oil pan gasket. The cross member was very difficult to get out and read an old thread (~ 2003) whereas an old forum member encountered same difficulty, and suggested grinding off ~ 1/6 from both ends and rounding the corners off. I did that and installed was not difficult. I even removed the cross member after I got it back in place to see if I could notice removal being easier and it was allot easier. Good advise from the old / former forum member. Next weekend have to replace driver's side door opening weather stripping, tore it getting in and out of the truck while removing shifter.
Please share the title OR author OR date of the referenced thread. Thank you very much. Chris
Chris,
Did not save the thread after reading the advice of grinding off ~ 1/16" from both ends of the crossmember and rounding the corners to make crossmember removal / re-installation easier. Though what I just typed is the jest of the of thread advice. Realize it sounds simple the advice of grinding off the 1/6" and rounding the corners, but it actually works. I'll add, that I put a lite application of wheel bearing grease on the ends of the cross member before re-installing it. Figured with as much difficulty I encountered getting it out, anything to help ease of re-installation couldn't hurt.
For removing of the crossmember I resorted to using a come-along (77&79 F250 Rich's suggestion) on one end, dead ended to the axle with just enough strain on it and the opposite end of the crossmember, I used a 2 pound brass hammer. Pounded a little, took another click on the come along until it was turned diagonal enough to rotate and remove.
Productive weekend. As indicated above drive line re-installed and was able to move the 77 F-150 in order to take the 95 F-150 SVT (1st gen) Lightning in for required California Smog test, of which it passed. Th Smog tech showed me the results and said the numbers were on the lower side of average. I was a little skeptical because the last time I drove the Lightning was 22 months ago for the 2019 Smog test. 24 Miles recorded on the odometer since the previous test.
Moving onto to Dentside generation. Mentioned in an earlier thread I destoryed the driver's side door opening weather striping getting in and out of the truck while in the process of removing and re-installing the drive line. Ordered a new pair from Dennis Carpenter and am very pleased compared to the set I got three years ago. The pair I just got have the pin holes in the rubber, just like the new Ford OEM door opening weather stripping, so I didn't have to cut tiny slits in the rubber to allow the air to escape while closing the door, whereas before without cutting tiny slits into the rubber, it took too much force to get the door to fully close. Removed the bed, OEM fuel tank, steel gas line and got the frame wire wheeled. Weather permitting this weekend plan to degrease the frame, paint it and mount the EFI ready fuel tank equipped with an in tank electric pump, in preparation for converting over to Holley 2300 EFI and Edelbrock heads. Plan to take pictures and do a swap thread.
Youngest Son took the attached picture last Friday, 26 February 2021 when the three trucks were lined up. Don & Fe's Ford F-150s
M Mike,
You're welcome. Ya been busy, but it's all been enjoyable. Forum seems to spur ideas, not too long ago, saw picture of one member's engine bay and he painted his jack original black color and jack hold down Ford FE corporate blue, which in my opinion help complement his engine bay. He may of also had the top of the radiator support painted Ford FE corporate blue.
Curious Mike about you mentioning Steel Rubber, if you can, please provide a link. Thank you Believe someone awhile back on the forum mentioned he used 1992-1996 Ford F-Series door opening weather striping that was encased in steel and in his opinion provided a superior grip.
I have been hearing others sing the praises of Steele Rubber. As far as I can see, they DO have a superior product.
my brother-in-law used Steele Rubber products on a Mustang that he restored and the rubber is STILL nice on that car.
I recently got the new cowl rubber piece that SR has just started producing..... AND IT IS GREAT. It has the clips made on it and it plugs right into the holes in your firewall.
The last step in replacing every piece of this dreaded brake system, ripped out all the old brake lines and put in a InlineTube kit, new PV2, replaced the booster and MC last year. The biggest mistake i made was trying to use new stuff with the old stuff...... and Shabam no more leaks !
The last step in replacing every piece of this dreaded brake system, ripped out all the old brake lines and put in a InlineTube kit, new PV2, replaced the booster and MC last year. The biggest mistake i made was trying to use new stuff with the old stuff...... and Shabam no more leaks !
Yep sometimes its best to do everything at once when it comes to an old brake system. Were you happy with how the inline tube lines fit?
Found old tailgate which had NONE of hardware. Ordered new hardware and installed tailgate. I did this because I am hauling a bunch of.gravel and want to use a "Load Handler Bed Unloader."
02-21-2021, 09:46 PM
