Hydroboost conversion done!
#181
05-15-2018, 09:26 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Burbank, CA.
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I did find that the lower holes on the bracket were too close to the boost to use the factory bolts with the large hex heads so I used small head 3/8 bolts that you use with headers . I was able to get a socket on those easier .
#182
05-16-2018, 10:07 AM
#184
05-16-2018, 10:15 PM
Lead Driver
Just showing how the bracket needs to be flipped so that the brake push rod aligns with the firewall hole and brake pedal .
Elongate holes to match old bracket / factory dentside hole in firewall .
I took a 3/8 inverted flare with barbed fitting and cut the barb down to about 1/8 " long . I then drilled the pump housing so that the barb just stuck thru the pump housing tig welded that on the inside around the 3/8 hole and then around the hex of the fitting on the outside of the pump housing . Now I have a replaceable 3/8 hard line for a second return to the pump . I've heard the Large T fitting works but this is how I did it
#185
05-17-2018, 12:04 AM
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I used the bracket that Wild Horses sells . It's made for the 351m / 400 with or without air con . It is a pretty impressive part . I had to elongate a few holes and grind a little material off where the bracket was slightly touching the pump reservoir . Considering the many slight casting variables in replacement water pumps ( where the bracket bolts to ) and such , a little grinding to make the bracket kit fit was no big deal . I would definelty recommend it to anyone that doesn't want to spend hours making a bracket from nothing .
#186
05-17-2018, 09:17 AM
I used the bracket that Wild Horses sells . It's made for the 351m / 400 with or without air con . It is a pretty impressive part . I had to elongate a few holes and grind a little material off where the bracket was slightly touching the pump reservoir . Considering the many slight casting variables in replacement water pumps ( where the bracket bolts to ) and such , a little grinding to make the bracket kit fit was no big deal . I would definelty recommend it to anyone that doesn't want to spend hours making a bracket from nothing .
and still maintain my serp system.
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#187
09-26-2018, 10:29 AM
BAck from the dead
I did the Astrovan swap in my 71 Bronco but do you know which one will work for my 78 f250? Thanks for the info. Here are my choices.
Astro Van boosters with the flat firewall bracket and short pushrod or Astro Van boosters with the angled firewall bracket and long pushrod.
What else do I need for the swap? Thanks
Astro Van boosters with the flat firewall bracket and short pushrod or Astro Van boosters with the angled firewall bracket and long pushrod.
What else do I need for the swap? Thanks
#188
09-26-2018, 01:24 PM
I did the Astrovan swap in my 71 Bronco but do you know which one will work for my 78 f250? Thanks for the info. Here are my choices.
Astro Van boosters with the flat firewall bracket and short pushrod or Astro Van boosters with the angled firewall bracket and long pushrod.
What else do I need for the swap? Thanks
Astro Van boosters with the flat firewall bracket and short pushrod or Astro Van boosters with the angled firewall bracket and long pushrod.
What else do I need for the swap? Thanks
The Astrovans have a gold canister, which is smaller in diameter than the others (blue - not sure what it's from, and silver - from 2000+ish trucks). Bigger canister = more available reserve vacuum in case your motor dies while driving.
In any case (blue, silver, gold) you will have to reuse your existing pushrod or adapt a new one to fit the length of throw for the pedal. If you don't get this correct, you may as well not have done the Hydroboost swap in the first place as you won't achieve the full throw of the pedal fulcrum (critical to braking).
Other things you'll need is a power steering pump that can handle the extra load + a power steering cooler to keep the p/s fluid cool. Pumps with a dual return are preferred, but the best is a Saginaw (housing looks like a "canned ham") pump with an additional fitting drilled into the housing as no sagniaws came with dual return ports.
You'll also need high pressure lines made up from scratch as you'll be adapting new-ish fittings (sometimes metric at the hydroboost end), with old fittings (SAE at the pump end - o-ring style).
Otherwise, you'll need a TON of patience as lots of folks have had issues after installing the system with getting the kinks worked out so that it performs as intended. Bleeding air is the biggest culprit of frustration.
#189
09-26-2018, 02:41 PM
Lead Driver
I use 87-97 F-Superduty (F-450) HB units in the multiple swaps I have done for myself and others, it is by far the least complicated unit to swap in as in the 5 I have done it only required flipping the mounting plate for firewall fitment to be correct and pedal attachment to be good.
I also use Saginaw pumps and lines out of Econolines that are that are appropriate for the engine/belt style of what is in the truck.
Put more than 40,xxx miles on my setup with no issues. I am also running a newer E-250 D60 semi float rear with dual piston calipers that match the front calipers on my 78 F-250 and using a 79 F-350 4x4 master cylinder. My setup stops my 78 CCSB with 35" tires easily either empty or loaded with a trailer, with the smaller factory size tires it was difficult to not wear flat spots in the tires during braking.
Hydroboost 101 Searching sucks, so I figured i would start a hydroboost 101 thread so all the good information can be found in one place.
Feel free to correct my information or add more technical info.
Here is my collection of boosters, I was looking for the easiest, cheapest bolt in booster.
Vehicle: Chevy Astro 1990 – 1993
Description: Flat mounting plate with studs that go thru the firewall.
Master cylinder: Mounting hole spacing 3 3/8
Pedal rod length: 6” from mounting face
Pedal rod hole size: ½”
Port H-boost - box 16mm-1.5 (Areoquip adapter FBM2608)
Port H-boost - pump 18mm-1.5 (Areoquip adapter FBM2609)
Vehicle: Chevy Astro 1994 – 1995
Description: Flat mounting plate with studs that go thru the firewall.
Master cylinder: Mounting hole spacing 3 3/8
Pedal rod length: 6” from mounting face
Pedal rod hole size: 5/8”
Port H-boost - box 16mm-1.5 (Areoquip adapter FBM2608)
Port H-boost - pump 18mm-1.5 (Areoquip adapter FBM2609)
Vehicle: Chevy Astro 1996 – 2000
Description: angled mounting plate with studs that go thru the firewall.
Master cylinder: Mounting hole spacing 3 3/8
Pedal rod length: 7 1/2” from mounting face
Pedal rod hole size: 5/8”
Port H-boost - box 16mm-1.5 (Areoquip adapter FBM2608)
Port H-boost - pump 18mm-1.5 (Areoquip adapter FBM2609)
Vehicle: Ford LTD 1984
Description: angled mounting plate built into the booster studs that go thru the firewall.
Master cylinder: Mounting hole spacing 3 1/4
Pedal rod length: 4 5/8” from mounting face
Pedal rod hole size: 5/8”
Vehicle: Chevy Suburban 1984
Description: Flat mounting plate with Bolts for mounting to firewall and 2 studs.
Master cylinder: Mounting hole spacing 3 3/8
Pedal rod length: 7 1/2” from mounting face
Pedal rod hole size: 1/2”
pic num/desc.
1. 90-93 Astro
2. 90-93 Astro
3. 96-200 Astro
4. 84 LTD ( shows "stick out")
5. 84 LTD MC ( shows clocking plate)
6. 84 Suburban
7. 84 LTD
note on he LTD booster appears to take a master cylinder for manual brakes.( has a stick out)Bronco
Stock Bronco Steering box fittings:
5⁄8-18 Return (Areoquip adapter FCM2964)
11⁄16-18 Pressure (Areoquip adapter FCM2965)
Order the P/S unit from this vehicle to get a can with two returns. 1979 GMC 1ton.
That's Cardone P/N 208611, which says it has 1 pressure and 2 return lines and is a will-fit for a GMC C3500 with 454 and hydroboost. Or for Ford 1976 LTD w/460 and hydroboost, A1 Cardone 208606.
sterlingworth16 This is the name of the hydroboost guy on ebay. He makes all sorts of adapter plates and sells kits to make up the lines yourself.
I found these posts in my Hydro B. file. Aaron, ford used a Saginaw pump with dual returns on a 76 LTD. I have one.
I also use Saginaw pumps and lines out of Econolines that are that are appropriate for the engine/belt style of what is in the truck.
Put more than 40,xxx miles on my setup with no issues. I am also running a newer E-250 D60 semi float rear with dual piston calipers that match the front calipers on my 78 F-250 and using a 79 F-350 4x4 master cylinder. My setup stops my 78 CCSB with 35" tires easily either empty or loaded with a trailer, with the smaller factory size tires it was difficult to not wear flat spots in the tires during braking.
Hydroboost 101 Searching sucks, so I figured i would start a hydroboost 101 thread so all the good information can be found in one place.
Feel free to correct my information or add more technical info.
Here is my collection of boosters, I was looking for the easiest, cheapest bolt in booster.
Vehicle: Chevy Astro 1990 – 1993
Description: Flat mounting plate with studs that go thru the firewall.
Master cylinder: Mounting hole spacing 3 3/8
Pedal rod length: 6” from mounting face
Pedal rod hole size: ½”
Port H-boost - box 16mm-1.5 (Areoquip adapter FBM2608)
Port H-boost - pump 18mm-1.5 (Areoquip adapter FBM2609)
Vehicle: Chevy Astro 1994 – 1995
Description: Flat mounting plate with studs that go thru the firewall.
Master cylinder: Mounting hole spacing 3 3/8
Pedal rod length: 6” from mounting face
Pedal rod hole size: 5/8”
Port H-boost - box 16mm-1.5 (Areoquip adapter FBM2608)
Port H-boost - pump 18mm-1.5 (Areoquip adapter FBM2609)
Vehicle: Chevy Astro 1996 – 2000
Description: angled mounting plate with studs that go thru the firewall.
Master cylinder: Mounting hole spacing 3 3/8
Pedal rod length: 7 1/2” from mounting face
Pedal rod hole size: 5/8”
Port H-boost - box 16mm-1.5 (Areoquip adapter FBM2608)
Port H-boost - pump 18mm-1.5 (Areoquip adapter FBM2609)
Vehicle: Ford LTD 1984
Description: angled mounting plate built into the booster studs that go thru the firewall.
Master cylinder: Mounting hole spacing 3 1/4
Pedal rod length: 4 5/8” from mounting face
Pedal rod hole size: 5/8”
Vehicle: Chevy Suburban 1984
Description: Flat mounting plate with Bolts for mounting to firewall and 2 studs.
Master cylinder: Mounting hole spacing 3 3/8
Pedal rod length: 7 1/2” from mounting face
Pedal rod hole size: 1/2”
pic num/desc.
1. 90-93 Astro
2. 90-93 Astro
3. 96-200 Astro
4. 84 LTD ( shows "stick out")
5. 84 LTD MC ( shows clocking plate)
6. 84 Suburban
7. 84 LTD
note on he LTD booster appears to take a master cylinder for manual brakes.( has a stick out)Bronco
Stock Bronco Steering box fittings:
5⁄8-18 Return (Areoquip adapter FCM2964)
11⁄16-18 Pressure (Areoquip adapter FCM2965)
Order the P/S unit from this vehicle to get a can with two returns. 1979 GMC 1ton.
That's Cardone P/N 208611, which says it has 1 pressure and 2 return lines and is a will-fit for a GMC C3500 with 454 and hydroboost. Or for Ford 1976 LTD w/460 and hydroboost, A1 Cardone 208606.
sterlingworth16 This is the name of the hydroboost guy on ebay. He makes all sorts of adapter plates and sells kits to make up the lines yourself.
I found these posts in my Hydro B. file. Aaron, ford used a Saginaw pump with dual returns on a 76 LTD. I have one.
#190
09-26-2018, 04:01 PM
#191
09-26-2018, 09:36 PM
Hotshot
#192
09-26-2018, 10:03 PM
#193
09-27-2018, 06:48 AM
#195
09-27-2018, 08:21 AM
Try these
Make sure the one you get comes with Master Cylinder push rod.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...e+booster,1884
Make sure the one you get comes with Master Cylinder push rod.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...e+booster,1884