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My $.02: I did the swap a couple of years ago. I used the Astro Van Hydro unit (1994). I have a 75 F250 that had drums in the rear.
I needed good brakes. I changed to the dual diaphram vacuum booster. That wasn't good enough.
I swapped to the chevy calipers in the rear. I was an improvement, but not enough. The HB was excellent. Brakes are fearless now, but ...
The steering suffered. In tight spot it just seemed to stop being power for moments. So now I'm swapping to a Saginaw pump. It came oem on a 76 LTD with a 460 and HB. It has the dual return lines. Hopefully, that will take care of the fading steering.
I'm also changing to the El Dorado ebrake calipers.
My truck 1986 f150 4x4 original owner
Swapped whole rear end to a 2003 lightning (4 wheel disc brakes now)
Built a 408ci motor with little vacuum and now brakes suck
I have read a lot on this thread and have a question on which hydro pump to use.... One that is Pre or Post 2001? why are there so many to choose from....
I have read that people have slotted the 4 bolts holes in the firewall to align rod to brake pedal so I do not think that will be an issue, maybe its all about matching my current 1986 flared brake lines to master cylinder...
I have already upgraded to a Saginaw P series sepentine setup(1200PSI) so I think I would have to use the "T" setup and run a cooler.
What I have gathered, after having done the swap, and after having read this thread a couple of times, and untold research, is you do whatever is needed to mount the unit, with a good p/s pump, and you're good.
Keep the push rod straight. Use a Hydro with it's oem mate master to avoid compatibility issues.
If you cut/weld on the hb rod, keep the other end cool with ice or whatever, so you don't ruin seals in the hb.
Because there are so many units being put in so many vehicles, the universal answer to hose issues seems to be to have custom ones made, or make them yourself. Always use dual return lines.
Other than increasing spring pressure in the pressure relief valve of the pump there no adjustment to raise pressure.
Heidts does offer an adjustable bypass valve to reduce hydraulic pressure of the steering box increasing road feel. Download the instructions for installation diagrams. ADJUSTABLE POWER STEERING VALVE (PS-101) - HEIDTS
Other than increasing spring pressure in the pressure relief valve of the pump there no adjustment to raise pressure.
Heidts does offer an adjustable bypass valve to reduce hydraulic pressure of the steering box increasing road feel. Download the instructions for installation diagrams. ADJUSTABLE POWER STEERING VALVE (PS-101) - HEIDTS
Thanks for the link. I was reading that since the oem power steering box is not built to handle the type of pressure from a hydroboost unit, the seals will blow out if you don't install something to reduce the pressure.
OK I went and read his tech and it is what I thought. He is referring to when you are using rack and pinion steering not a steering box. R and P requires about half the pressure that a steering box does. No need to reduce pressure unless you want more road feel with a steering box.
I use 87-97 F-Superduty (F-450) HB units in the multiple swaps I have done for myself and others, it is by far the least complicated unit to swap in as in the 5 I have done it only required flipping the mounting plate for firewall fitment to be correct and pedal attachment to be good.
I also use Saginaw pumps and lines out of Econolines that are that are appropriate for the engine/belt style of what is in the truck.
Put more than 40,xxx miles on my setup with no issues. I am also running a newer E-250 D60 semi float rear with dual piston calipers that match the front calipers on my 78 F-250 and using a 79 F-350 4x4 master cylinder. My setup stops my 78 CCSB with 35" tires easily either empty or loaded with a trailer, with the smaller factory size tires it was difficult to not wear flat spots in the tires during braking.
I use 87-97 F-Superduty (F-450) HB units in the multiple swaps I have done for myself and others, it is by far the least complicated unit to swap in as in the 5 I have done it only required flipping the mounting plate for firewall fitment to be correct and pedal attachment to be good.
I also use Saginaw pumps and lines out of Econolines that are that are appropriate for the engine/belt style of what is in the truck.
Put more than 40,xxx miles on my setup with no issues. I am also running a newer E-250 D60 semi float rear with dual piston calipers that match the front calipers on my 78 F-250 and using a 79 F-350 4x4 master cylinder. My setup stops my 78 CCSB with 35" tires easily either empty or loaded with a trailer, with the smaller factory size tires it was difficult to not wear flat spots in the tires during braking.
What did you use for your gas pedal for the 12 valve conversion?
Or I may be wrong but it looked like you have a different gas pedal in a picture I saw on a hydroboost post .
I did a 12v conversion and I have hydroboost and I am struggling with getting the power steering bled and working properly but I noticed your gas pedal looks as though it will accept a stock 12 valve throttle cable....
I have not done my gas pedal / throttle cable yet but that's next after the hydroboost / steering stuff gets sorted out....
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