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Hydroboost conversion done!

 
  #241  
Old 02-11-2019, 10:22 PM
Justin Jones
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The right booster part number for the '97 F450 is BRB-37 ? Also known as E8TZ-2005-B ?
 
  #242  
Old 02-12-2019, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by F-250 restorer View Post
Use the F250 booster. I used an Astro Van booster for some years. I had to cut off the eye that connects to the brake pedal, and weld on one that fit the ford pedal. I also had to use a spacer rod to connect the master plunger to the HB rod. That spooked me.
Thanks for the suggestion.

I believe I'll still have to do some major modifications either through a spacer plate or through cutting the pedal rod... I'm partial to the former of the two because I'm just as spooked as you are when it comes to cutting a rod and spacing it correctly.

 
  #243  
Old 02-12-2019, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Justin Jones View Post
The right booster part number for the '97 F450 is BRB-37 ? Also known as E8TZ-2005-B ?
The BRB-37 is listed for:
  • E-series 1988-1989
  • F-350 1988-1997
  • F-450 1990-1997
Supplies for the new booster are drying up and the price has jumped a lot. I got mine from Amazon.

Rebuilt boosters are available from A-1 Cardone, Centric, NAPA. etc.
 
  #244  
Old 02-12-2019, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Aaron-71 View Post
Thanks for the suggestion.

I believe I'll still have to do some major modifications either through a spacer plate or through cutting the pedal rod... I'm partial to the former of the two because I'm just as spooked as you are when it comes to cutting a rod and spacing it correctly.
Hey Aaron, I copied this from a thread some time ago. I thought it might help:

I use 87-97 F-Superduty (F-450) HB units in the multiple swaps I have done for myself and others, it is by far the least complicated unit to swap in as in the 5 I have done it only required flipping the mounting plate for firewall fitment to be correct and pedal attachment to be good.

I also use Saginaw pumps and lines out of Econolines that are that are appropriate for the engine/belt style of what is in the truck.

Put more than 40,xxx miles on my setup with no issues. I am also running a newer E-250 D60 semi float rear with dual piston calipers that match the front calipers on my 78 F-250 and using a 79 F-350 4x4 master cylinder. My setup stops my 78 CCSB with 35" tires easily either empty or loaded with a trailer, with the smaller factory size tires it was difficult to not wear flat spots in the tires during braking.

Another option for the pedal rod would be to cut it and thread it for a heim joint. Then it would adjustable. I meant to do that to mine, but I had to draw a line somewhere because the project kept growing and I need to drive this thing asap. kevin.

 
  #245  
Old 02-12-2019, 06:43 PM
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Ok... I don't know what part of the process I'm missing, but this isn't working. I got a Hydroboost from a 97 F-superduty. I removed the plate, cut off the locator tab and elongated the top holes. I tried to build a spacer for it since the hydro boost rod is about 1.75 inches longer than vacuum booster, but that didn't work out. Rod was perfect length, but sitting too high. So I tried to just bolt it to the fire wall, and same problem rod is too high and wont bolt to pedal. It needs to come down about an inch, so what am I missing, I didn't see anything in the post that addresses this, just that with the length the pedal would be higher. Nothing about the rod not wanting to go on the pin.
 
  #246  
Old 02-13-2019, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by TXTrailerdaddy View Post
Ok... I don't know what part of the process I'm missing, but this isn't working. I got a Hydroboost from a 97 F-superduty. I removed the plate, cut off the locator tab and elongated the top holes. I tried to build a spacer for it since the hydro boost rod is about 1.75 inches longer than vacuum booster, but that didn't work out. Rod was perfect length, but sitting too high. So I tried to just bolt it to the fire wall, and same problem rod is too high and wont bolt to pedal. It needs to come down about an inch, so what am I missing, I didn't see anything in the post that addresses this, just that with the length the pedal would be higher. Nothing about the rod not wanting to go on the pin.
I feel your pain because this is my biggest issue with hydroboost conversions. Not everyone documents them fully for the next guy.

Do you have pictures and measurements on the pictures you could show us? Maybe there's something we'll see that you haven't noticed. A second set of eyes never hurts.
 
  #247  
Old 02-13-2019, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Aaron-71 View Post
I feel your pain because this is my biggest issue with hydroboost conversions. Not everyone documents them fully for the next guy.

Do you have pictures and measurements on the pictures you could show us? Maybe there's something we'll see that you haven't noticed. A second set of eyes never hurts.
I don't have pictures as I was by myself and that greasy hydroboost feels like holding a boat anchor while trying to put the bolts into the firewall. I'll describe it though. I built a spacer that moves the hydroboost unit into the engine compartment 2 inches. This lined the hydroboost eye up perfectly at the 12 O'clock position of the lug on the brake pedal. The rod moves up and down but could not move down enough to even touch the top of the lug. If I could drop the nose cone down to the bottom of the hole in the firewall it would be enough to mount but still at the extreme down angle for the rod. Ideally with the swing of the pedal it appears the front of the hydroboost unit (MC end) should be elevated. This would straighten the rod engagement to a linear instead of angular engagement. I tried this. I think I had the space right after some adjustments, but then I could not get the bolts in the front set of holes on the bracket because the back of the bracket was too close. I then said screw it, I'll eliminate the bracket since others say it just bolts right up but pedal is higher. Same problem. rod is about 1 inch too high and now is 2 inches in front of the pedal lug.
 
  #248  
Old 02-13-2019, 11:44 AM
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See post #88 for pics of what I did. I was installing a 2001 era super-dookie hydroboost and made a spacer / bracket that converted the hydroboost bolt pattern to the pattern on the firewall. I just used the CL of the rod on each as my starting point. I saved the files & we (another FTE member who does the steel cutting) sell these and the one he designed to use the hydroboost off the dodge/cummins trucks (2nd gen I believe) as kits. That being said there are different pedal configurations in these trucks, as well as a couple different stock brackets for mounting the vacuum booster. That just means the way one guy does it may not work for your truck, whether he took pics & explained it or not.
 
  #249  
Old 02-13-2019, 11:58 AM
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Ok. So I went back to post 88. That bracket looks just like the one I built. The difference is, my vacuum booster rod looks kid of like a letter P so that the eyelet drops down. There's a vacuum booster pictured that looks like a flat bar with a hole at the end, and if my pedal was set up for that, it would work. However, like I said my pedal was set up for that rod that drops down about an inch. I'll get some pics up tonight.
 
  #250  
Old 02-13-2019, 12:18 PM
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So adjust your bracket using the center of the attachment holes in the rod vs. the rod itself. Sounds like that should be the issue - right?
Another option would be to cut the rod end off each booster and thread them, then use a coupling nut to join them. I'd revise a bracket before doing this method for sure, but it seems like it would be another option.
 
  #251  
Old 02-13-2019, 01:22 PM
TXTrailerdaddy
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I imagine moving the hyrdroboost unit down about an inch would get it close enough to work. trouble is getting it set up properly before welding the second plate. Like I said, ideal would be to have the HB unit angled down towards the cab a bit. That would line the rod up with the throw of the pedal a little better I got the pedal out of the donor truck, but I dont think that will help as the mounting bracket is different from the Dents. cutting the rod and threading it sounds like it might work.... except the rod size of the stock unit is really thick compared to hydroboost unit.
 
  #252  
Old 02-24-2019, 11:41 AM
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I'm using a Saginaw p/s pump that came oem in a '76 LTD with a 460 and hydroboost. It has two return lines. I used a Ford pump with single return for some years and found it lacking/lazy in parking situations. So, I've been looking forward to this upgrade. For a bracket I took one from an Econoline van with my engine. I'm also building my own braided high pressure lines (expensive teflon line and pricey fittings!). The problem with the Aeroquip fittings is be sure to order the right ones, or you'll be waiting for mail order replacements.

In the photo below you can see by the width of the reservoir on top that this model is high capacity.



For the return lines I used standard non braided line (after spending $400 on braided and fittings!). I went with Summit brand compression fittings to attach the return lines to the reservoir, and then efi fuel line clamps on the oem ford fluid cooler and filters. I just couldn't spend more on fittings! To put on the compression fittings on the return tubes I had to disassemble the pump and cut off the hose flair on the tubes. Then I washed out the filings and put it back together. Actually, I think it would have looked better without the huge compression fittings hanging out in space. Oh well.

The hydroboost and master is out of a 96 Superduty. It looks nice with the fittings and braided lines on it. I'll have to post a photo of it with the lines in place.

 
 
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