When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm using a Astrovan booster. The pushrod was an inch too long anyway so I cut it down and cut the end off my bellcrank linkage from my booster. I had a coworker mill out a 3/8 slot down the center of the flatbar and ground flat spots on the booster pushrod. I then ground the pushrod down until the flatbar eye was the same distance from the mounting surface as it was on the bellcrank. Tomorrow I will weld it together. I will take pics. I plan on mounting it up this weekend.
This may sound like a very stupid question, but does the angle of the pedal pushrod matter? I know I am looking at swapping a hydroboost from a SupaDootie(88) into my 84 F250 and the pushrod pin is located in different positions...hydroboost is 3/4" higher than the vacuum booster location..ON THE BRAKE PEDAL.
Just wondering if this applys to the bump/dentside trucks or not.
Thanks
Lance
I bought two from E series vans. These have shorter pedal rods. Reason I bought two is one is an early version and the other is a late version. Early version has standard thread ports and the late is metric thread. I haven't installed either one yet, but hoping no spacer needed or I might need to lengthen the rod. I will see if I can find the years that separate the series standard to metric port threads.
Edit to add: I found the year models.
Standard thread ports 2004-2007 E350 E450 6.0 Superduty
This may sound like a very stupid question, but does the angle of the pedal pushrod matter? I know I am looking at swapping a hydroboost from a SupaDootie(88) into my 84 F250 and the pushrod pin is located in different positions...hydroboost is 3/4" higher than the vacuum booster location..ON THE BRAKE PEDAL.
Just wondering if this applys to the bump/dentside trucks or not.
Thanks
Lance
It is best to have it as straight a push as possible. Understand that if you change the pin location to match booster mounting point you have changed pedal ratio. If you move the booster mounting to match the pin location then the pedal ratio will stay the same.
I bought two from E series vans. These have shorter pedal rods. Reason I bought two is one is an early version and the other is a late version. Early version has standard thread ports and the late is metric thread. I haven't installed either one yet, but hoping no spacer needed or I might need to lengthen the rod. I will see if I can find the years that separate the series standard to metric port threads.
Edit to add: I found the year models.
Standard thread ports 2004-2007 E350 E450 6.0 Superduty
Metric Thread ports 2008-2013 E450 6.0 Superduty
That's what I am using in my 79 Bronco. No spacer. I just had to cut the brake pedal and got the curvey spot in it straight some so the booster rod goes straight.
Originally Posted by lance65
ANYONE?...........
Mine was at an angle at first and it is ok BUT it is best to have it straight so it will never bind.
This is a wonderful thread, but I have questions!!!
1) Can the hydroboost be "clocked" so that the canister is in-line with the master cylinder? Yes, the hydroboost can be inverted (rotated 180 degrees) so that it is upside down, but I want to know if it can be clocked to an alternative location so there are more than 2 options.
It seems to me that the canister may be in the way of getting at those rear bolts on the valve covers... particularly if you have a 400 or 460!
2) Can someone confirm the list of vehicles below that have hydroboosts? I've split the list into "requires modification" and "no modification".
Hydroboost Set-ups - Requires modification:
1999 - 2007 F250, F350, F450 with 6.0L (SAE Threads)
1999 - 2007 E350, E450 with 6.0L (SAE Threads)
2008 - 2013 F250, F350, F450 with 6.0L (Metric Threads)
2008 - 2013 E350, E450 with 6.0L (Metric Threads)
Chevy Astrovan (year was not listed)
Hydroboost Set-ups - No modification:
From my understanding, there are no units on this thread to date that DO NOT require modification of the connecting rod from the hydroboost to the pedal linkage.
3) At what distance should the hydroboost be mounted away from the firewall to match the existing pedal location? In other words, how big of a shim do we need for each different set-up?
OR - the same power steering pump of the vehicle you got the hydroboost from:
1999 - 2007 F250, F350, F450 with 6.0L (SAE Threads)
1999 - 2007 E350, E450 with 6.0L (SAE Threads)
2008 - 2013 F250, F350, F450 with 6.0L (Metric Threads)
2008 - 2013 E350, E450 with 6.0L (Metric Threads)
Please add to the above posts so readers don't have to spend so much time sifting through the thread (I.E. thread sizes for each power steering pump set-up, thread sizes for the hydroboosts, etc).
Close. I used a 94 FSuperduty HB, and the only "modification" was to flip the back plate around. Other than that, it bolted right to the firewall and 79 pedal setup.
I say this because ford had about 1,000,000 brake pedal/booster combos, but this is what worked for me.
This is a wonderful thread, but I have questions!!!
1) Can the hydroboost be "clocked" so that the canister is in-line with the master cylinder? Yes, the hydroboost can be inverted (rotated 180 degrees) so that it is upside down, but I want to know if it can be clocked to an alternative location so there are more than 2 options.
It seems to me that the canister may be in the way of getting at those rear bolts on the valve covers... particularly if you have a 400 or 460!
2) Can someone confirm the list of vehicles below that have hydroboosts? I've split the list into "requires modification" and "no modification".
Hydroboost Set-ups - Requires modification:
1999 - 2007 F250, F350, F450 with 6.0L (SAE Threads)
1999 - 2007 E350, E450 with 6.0L (SAE Threads)
2008 - 2013 F250, F350, F450 with 6.0L (Metric Threads)
2008 - 2013 E350, E450 with 6.0L (Metric Threads)
Chevy Astrovan (year was not listed)
Hydroboost Set-ups - No modification:
From my understanding, there are no units on this thread to date that DO NOT require modification of the connecting rod from the hydroboost to the pedal linkage.
3) At what distance should the hydroboost be mounted away from the firewall to match the existing pedal location? In other words, how big of a shim do we need for each different set-up?
OR - the same power steering pump of the vehicle you got the hydroboost from:
1999 - 2007 F250, F350, F450 with 6.0L (SAE Threads)
1999 - 2007 E350, E450 with 6.0L (SAE Threads)
2008 - 2013 F250, F350, F450 with 6.0L (Metric Threads)
2008 - 2013 E350, E450 with 6.0L (Metric Threads)
Please add to the above posts so readers don't have to spend so much time sifting through the thread (I.E. thread sizes for each power steering pump set-up, thread sizes for the hydroboosts, etc).
Would the 76-79 Lincoln 's not work for this set up? I was looking at one today. Busy searching these threads and it is brain overload...
Would the 76-79 Lincoln 's not work for this set up? I was looking at one today. Busy searching these threads and it is brain overload...
Yes it certainly would work. The only issue I can see from looking at photos is that the Lincoln Power Brake Booster has a much shorter linkage rod that connects to the pedal.
I would recommend getting some more info on the linkage length before you purchase.
My truck 1986 f150 4x4 original owner
Swapped whole rear end to a 2003 lightning (4 wheel disc brakes now)
Built a 408ci motor with little vacuum and now brakes suck
I have read a lot on this thread and have a question on which hydro pump to use.... One that is Pre or Post 2001? why are there so many to choose from....
I have read that people have slotted the 4 bolts holes in the firewall to align rod to brake pedal so I do not think that will be an issue, maybe its all about matching my current 1986 flared brake lines to master cylinder...
I have already upgraded to a Saginaw P series sepentine setup(1200PSI) so I think I would have to use the "T" setup and run a cooler.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.