Hydroboost conversion done!
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,188
Likes: 384
From: Near Los Angeles
I wanted to run some kinda related to the thread topic. Since I'm installing a new pedal assembly--auto to manual--I'm swapping the cheap bushings of an oem system on the pivot rod to bearings. I also wanted to find a way to do away with the cheap plastic insert on the clutch master shafter, where it connects to the pedal arm.
I was looking at a Heim joint.
That looks very good, but the entire thing is then held on by one small allen bolt. That doesn't sit well with me. I'd rather have a slightly loose pedal than loose it completely!
Has anyone done this? I'm thinking of doing it, but drilling throught the heim and arm, and installing a hardened roll pen, or even a small grade 8 bolt with a lock nut. Thoughts?
I was looking at a Heim joint.
Has anyone done this? I'm thinking of doing it, but drilling throught the heim and arm, and installing a hardened roll pen, or even a small grade 8 bolt with a lock nut. Thoughts?
Trailering
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 17
Likes: 1
After watching that, I am with you that simple set screw doesn't look sufficient to hold the rod in the heim end. A roll pin that goes from one side of the heim to the other would be much better.
Attachment to the pedal should be a shoulder bolt not a full threaded bolt pinching the rod end.
Attachment to the pedal should be a shoulder bolt not a full threaded bolt pinching the rod end.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,211
Likes: 3
From: clovis, CA
Just weld a bolt to the rod, and get a heim that screws to that. We use attachments that are that simple but cleaner all the time on shift links and clutch/brake rods. it's simple old school tech.
New User
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Great thread, just got a 1977 F150, motor has some mods, cam, etc, and the brakes suck! Just want to make sure this mod will also work with the F150's. Seems like most in here have modified the F250's. Will this work with the F-150?
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,188
Likes: 384
From: Near Los Angeles
I'd change the p/s pump to a saginaw at the same time.
I like the idea of welding a bolt to the h.boost brake shaft. But, from experience I learned that you have to keep the other end of the shaft cool or the heat will ruin the seals in the hydro unit. Oops. Leak.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,399
Likes: 40
From: El Dorado, Arkansas
I wanted to run some kinda related to the thread topic. Since I'm installing a new pedal assembly--auto to manual--I'm swapping the cheap bushings of an oem system on the pivot rod to bearings. I also wanted to find a way to do away with the cheap plastic insert on the clutch master shafter, where it connects to the pedal arm.
I was looking at a Heim joint. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BSA2umjk-_E That looks very good, but the entire thing is then held on by one small allen bolt. That doesn't sit well with me. I'd rather have a slightly loose pedal than loose it completely!
Has anyone done this? I'm thinking of doing it, but drilling throught the heim and arm, and installing a hardened roll pen, or even a small grade 8 bolt with a lock nut. Thoughts?
I was looking at a Heim joint. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BSA2umjk-_E That looks very good, but the entire thing is then held on by one small allen bolt. That doesn't sit well with me. I'd rather have a slightly loose pedal than loose it completely!
Has anyone done this? I'm thinking of doing it, but drilling throught the heim and arm, and installing a hardened roll pen, or even a small grade 8 bolt with a lock nut. Thoughts?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-bearings.html
New User
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Are you referring to the Hboost or the heim joint mod? I'm thinking you're concerned with the hboost swap. If so, I think the advice I would give to anyone to expedite the swap would be to get master and hydro together, made for each other. It will save you time and aggro. Yes, it will work with a f150 too.
I'd change the p/s pump to a saginaw at the same time.
I like the idea of welding a bolt to the h.boost brake shaft. But, from experience I learned that you have to keep the other end of the shaft cool or the heat will ruin the seals in the hydro unit. Oops. Leak.
I'd change the p/s pump to a saginaw at the same time.
I like the idea of welding a bolt to the h.boost brake shaft. But, from experience I learned that you have to keep the other end of the shaft cool or the heat will ruin the seals in the hydro unit. Oops. Leak.
- Hydroboost and master cylinder from 1987-1997 F450 Superduty
- Saginaw p/s pump
One note: Looks like the OP went with a 1979 F350 master cylinder, not sure if there is a benefit to this, maybe less brake line routing mods? Or is the volume displacement of the cylinder better matched to our older trucks?
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,188
Likes: 384
From: Near Los Angeles
I've seen some guys 'slot' the bolt holes on the older masters so they fit a h.boost unit. I've also read where a person who did that had his master burst loose from the hydro. Me, I want to know that I'm safe, that every time I stomp on the brakes they are going to work and not launch my master.
It's an issue of compatability. Many of those old mated to new combo's also have to mod a intermediary shaft and insert it into back of master to compensate for improper length of that coming from the hydro unit. Again, for you guys that feel safe and good doing that, all the luck in the world I send to you. However, for me, I want it done how I consider it to be 'the right way.' That is why I mentioned before: "buy the two that came oem together."
What you need to consider is the length of the shaft that mounts on the brake pedal--from firewall to center of opening. That should end up the same as unit you take out. If memory serves me, I believe (but confirm yourself) the measurement is 5.5".
Read back through the posts. There was member who mentioned what year hydro to get that was easiest. Good luck. Oh, you'll need a bracket for your Saginaw. Those can be had on the mid eighties--mid nineties Econoline vans with your engine size. Try to get one with the dual line return, not a single line return.
It's an issue of compatability. Many of those old mated to new combo's also have to mod a intermediary shaft and insert it into back of master to compensate for improper length of that coming from the hydro unit. Again, for you guys that feel safe and good doing that, all the luck in the world I send to you. However, for me, I want it done how I consider it to be 'the right way.' That is why I mentioned before: "buy the two that came oem together."
What you need to consider is the length of the shaft that mounts on the brake pedal--from firewall to center of opening. That should end up the same as unit you take out. If memory serves me, I believe (but confirm yourself) the measurement is 5.5".
Read back through the posts. There was member who mentioned what year hydro to get that was easiest. Good luck. Oh, you'll need a bracket for your Saginaw. Those can be had on the mid eighties--mid nineties Econoline vans with your engine size. Try to get one with the dual line return, not a single line return.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
New User
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
I've seen some guys 'slot' the bolt holes on the older masters so they fit a h.boost unit. I've also read where a person who did that had his master burst loose from the hydro. Me, I want to know that I'm safe, that every time I stomp on the brakes they are going to work and not launch my master.
It's an issue of compatability. Many of those old mated to new combo's also have to mod a intermediary shaft and insert it into back of master to compensate for improper length of that coming from the hydro unit. Again, for you guys that feel safe and good doing that, all the luck in the world I send to you. However, for me, I want it done how I consider it to be 'the right way.' That is why I mentioned before: "buy the two that came oem together."
What you need to consider is the length of the shaft that mounts on the brake pedal--from firewall to center of opening. That should end up the same as unit you take out. If memory serves me, I believe (but confirm yourself) the measurement is 5.5".
Read back through the posts. There was member who mentioned what year hydro to get that was easiest. Good luck. Oh, you'll need a bracket for your Saginaw. Those can be had on the mid eighties--mid nineties Econoline vans with your engine size. Try to get one with the dual line return, not a single line return.
It's an issue of compatability. Many of those old mated to new combo's also have to mod a intermediary shaft and insert it into back of master to compensate for improper length of that coming from the hydro unit. Again, for you guys that feel safe and good doing that, all the luck in the world I send to you. However, for me, I want it done how I consider it to be 'the right way.' That is why I mentioned before: "buy the two that came oem together."
What you need to consider is the length of the shaft that mounts on the brake pedal--from firewall to center of opening. That should end up the same as unit you take out. If memory serves me, I believe (but confirm yourself) the measurement is 5.5".
Read back through the posts. There was member who mentioned what year hydro to get that was easiest. Good luck. Oh, you'll need a bracket for your Saginaw. Those can be had on the mid eighties--mid nineties Econoline vans with your engine size. Try to get one with the dual line return, not a single line return.
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
From: Burbank, CA.
So I got really tired of the braking system on my 76 F-250 SuperCab 2WD
. I had replaced everything multiple times and it still was not that good. So I decided to do a HydroBoost conversion. Some people put way to much thinking effort into this conversion but its really is not that hard. I decided to just jump into it and get it done!All the parts I used can be found at a local parts store or junkyard I got mine from a junkyard.
Parts list
F-450 HydroBoost found on the F-SuperDuty trucks $24.00
HyrdroBoost mounting bracket from F-450 $2.00
Both pressure lines from the F-450! $19.00
Master Cylinder "NEW at NAPA" for 79 F-350 SuperCab $31.00
Power Steering Pump from the F-450 $ 20.00
Bulk High pressure 3/8'' oil cooler hose 6' $28.00
That will give you the main parts you need to get. Other parts such as clamps and oil are common sense. The install went very well and almost ZERO fab work. First remove the pushrod from the brake pedal inside the truck.Make sure you keep the stock bolt, bushing and nut you will be reusing these. Now go and remove the master cylinder and set it aside. Start unbolting the vacuum booster, start by removing the 4 nuts on the rear of the unit that hold it on to the brackets. Now remove the two brackets that held the booster to the firewall and keep the bolts you will reuse them. Go ahead and remove the black plastic dust cover that mounted between the booster and the firewall and discard. You now have a fresh start all the parts are off the truck and you are ready to mock up the HydroBoost.First start by removing the 4 studs in the HydroBoost bracket and discard them. The F-450 mounting bracket has to be removed from the HydroBoost and flipped 180 degrees to do this remove it and you will see a small tang. Just make sure you do not flip the bracket the flush side without the edges goes towards the firewall. Notice how the factory just cut a groove in the threads on the rear of the HydroBoost for the tang to fit. Go ahead and cut a new slot on the other side and make sure it is straight if not your booster will sit crooked. Now go ahead and put the mount back on the rear of the HydroBoost and tighten the nut and put the snap ring on. Take two of the stock bolts that went to the firewall and put them in the top 2 holes of the HydroBoost now bolt the hydro boost to the firewall. You will notice the bottom two holes need to be slotted upwards, mark them with a pen and remove the booster. Use a die grinder and create the slots in the bracket. Once done put all 4 bolts in and tighten down. Go inside and hookup the pushrod to the pedal. The pushrod has two sides to it one is flat the other has a bump you want the flat side towards the pedal. Reuse the stock bolt bushing and nut and tighten. Go and start running the pressure lines, the stock HydroBoost line will thread into your stock steering gear so no problems there. You will have to get creative and do some gentle
bending of the tubes to adapt them to fit in these trucks. But they will fit. So one line goes from the pump to the left hand port on the HydroBoost then the right hand port goes to the steering gear. Depending on if you got the power steering pump with two return lines will determine how you will have to run the return lines. Run one return line from the stock PS cooler output to the pump then run the HydroBoost return line to the other return port on the pump (if you don't have 2 return ports on the pump just tee all 3 lines together). You're almost done go ahead and fill the PS reservoir (you may have to do it a few times after initial start once the are bubbles work their way out) bleed all the brakes. Go ahead and start the truck and check for leaks and test out your new braking power!
. I had replaced everything multiple times and it still was not that good. So I decided to do a HydroBoost conversion. Some people put way to much thinking effort into this conversion but its really is not that hard. I decided to just jump into it and get it done!All the parts I used can be found at a local parts store or junkyard I got mine from a junkyard.Parts list
F-450 HydroBoost found on the F-SuperDuty trucks $24.00
HyrdroBoost mounting bracket from F-450 $2.00
Both pressure lines from the F-450! $19.00
Master Cylinder "NEW at NAPA" for 79 F-350 SuperCab $31.00
Power Steering Pump from the F-450 $ 20.00
Bulk High pressure 3/8'' oil cooler hose 6' $28.00
That will give you the main parts you need to get. Other parts such as clamps and oil are common sense. The install went very well and almost ZERO fab work. First remove the pushrod from the brake pedal inside the truck.Make sure you keep the stock bolt, bushing and nut you will be reusing these. Now go and remove the master cylinder and set it aside. Start unbolting the vacuum booster, start by removing the 4 nuts on the rear of the unit that hold it on to the brackets. Now remove the two brackets that held the booster to the firewall and keep the bolts you will reuse them. Go ahead and remove the black plastic dust cover that mounted between the booster and the firewall and discard. You now have a fresh start all the parts are off the truck and you are ready to mock up the HydroBoost.First start by removing the 4 studs in the HydroBoost bracket and discard them. The F-450 mounting bracket has to be removed from the HydroBoost and flipped 180 degrees to do this remove it and you will see a small tang. Just make sure you do not flip the bracket the flush side without the edges goes towards the firewall. Notice how the factory just cut a groove in the threads on the rear of the HydroBoost for the tang to fit. Go ahead and cut a new slot on the other side and make sure it is straight if not your booster will sit crooked. Now go ahead and put the mount back on the rear of the HydroBoost and tighten the nut and put the snap ring on. Take two of the stock bolts that went to the firewall and put them in the top 2 holes of the HydroBoost now bolt the hydro boost to the firewall. You will notice the bottom two holes need to be slotted upwards, mark them with a pen and remove the booster. Use a die grinder and create the slots in the bracket. Once done put all 4 bolts in and tighten down. Go inside and hookup the pushrod to the pedal. The pushrod has two sides to it one is flat the other has a bump you want the flat side towards the pedal. Reuse the stock bolt bushing and nut and tighten. Go and start running the pressure lines, the stock HydroBoost line will thread into your stock steering gear so no problems there. You will have to get creative and do some gentle
bending of the tubes to adapt them to fit in these trucks. But they will fit. So one line goes from the pump to the left hand port on the HydroBoost then the right hand port goes to the steering gear. Depending on if you got the power steering pump with two return lines will determine how you will have to run the return lines. Run one return line from the stock PS cooler output to the pump then run the HydroBoost return line to the other return port on the pump (if you don't have 2 return ports on the pump just tee all 3 lines together). You're almost done go ahead and fill the PS reservoir (you may have to do it a few times after initial start once the are bubbles work their way out) bleed all the brakes. Go ahead and start the truck and check for leaks and test out your new braking power!
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 4,436
Likes: 19
From: Regina, Saskatchewan
GREAT ! Thank you for sharing this . I just completed this conversion using a new F350 (2000) hydroboost along with my 1978 master cylinder and a Saginaw pump that I added a second return line fitting to . Your tips on flipping and elongating the holes on the HB bracket made it so easy . Thank you
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
From: Burbank, CA.
Just showing how the bracket needs to be flipped so that the brake push rod aligns with the firewall hole and brake pedal .
Elongate holes to match old bracket / factory dentside hole in firewall .
I took a 3/8 inverted flare with barbed fitting and cut the barb down to about 1/8 " long . I then drilled the pump housing so that the barb just stuck thru the pump housing tig welded that on the inside around the 3/8 hole and then around the hex of the fitting on the outside of the pump housing . Now I have a replaceable 3/8 hard line for a second return to the pump . I've heard the Large T fitting works but this is how I did it
Last edited by soliday; May 15, 2018 at 09:21 PM.