@subford Good morning. I am wondering if you could get me the PCM number for my F-150 attached in the picture. Ive also attached a picture of the current PCM in the truck but I dont think its the original one. TIA.
1992 F-150, 5.8, E4OD, 4x4

 

No its not.
The 1992 F150 5.8L with a calibration number of 2-64S-R10 had the original number on the PCM of F2TF 12A650-BSA
The Ford part number of F2TZ 12A650-BSA.

 

I need to jump on the asking @subford for help decoding b-pillar calibration codes.

My truck (94 F150 XL 4.9L EFI Cali emissions, 5spd 4x4) is tagged 3-51R-R10 (F3AE-6E061-HHG). Since owning the truck, it has had the incorrect computer swapped, which I cannot recall without pulling it.

I'm pulling some smog parts (combination valves, vac fittings, etc...) to restore my truck to factory spec from a similar general spec'd 93, which is tagged 3-51E-R10 (F3AE-6E061-HHG).

Are these trucks by chance the same, just different year -- or close enough in configuration that it would be worth while to pull?

Thanks!

 

I think that both trucks are the same and the same year, 1993.
Both take the same PCM.
The number on the PCM should be F3TF 12A650-VA.
With the Ford part number of F3TZ 12A650-VA.

 

Thank you! Are the resources you reference available to the public somewhere? In an old thread you had provided some links which had expired since you had shared them. I'd love to find out as much as I can about my calibration list / configuration and for other trucks down the road.

 

/

 

REGARDING the following:
“Quote:
Originally Posted by stevo.kinevo
I'd love to find out as much as I can about my calibration list / configuration and for other trucks down the road.”

Wondering if Subford can help me out with a calibration list for this E150 I am trying to rescue from a parked and left to ruin state. Or any advice on where to send out this EEC-IV. Is Module Mech’s in Colorado a good vender, seen them on DucKDuckGo and did call them but didn’t get a live person to answer and even emailed them with an inquiry. No response from them yet been waiting since Friday 5/16/25.


VI number 1FDEE14N5KHA69592

EEC-IV part number E8TF-12A650-BF2A with 8PU / 8J30 on label.

Tag on A/C evaporator housing near EEC-IV mounting location states 8K03 / 8PU / F

Where can I send this EEC-IV to have 2 capacitors replaced and any thing else that will fix a no Spark condition on this particular Van I am trying to rescue?

Any help appreciated or help in getting me going in right direction. Getting fuel while cranking, smells strong, and new fuel pump(s) and ICM and coil are installed. Computer has two leaking capacitors.

1989 Ford E150 Econoline 5.0 Automatic Trans

 

Beep!OurRidesDeadF100;

With the computer unplugged restore the spark.
With the computer unplugged it can not stop the spark.

Your parts list:



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You need to replace the three(3) capacitors. They are under $1 each, if you know how to solder.
Get a local electronics, tv, computer, etc. to replace them for you.

 

Agreed, but in this case, the caps have clearly been leaking for awhile and the circuit board may be beyond repair. Still worth a try, but just wanted to point that out.

But first, as SubFord has suggested, remove the PCM and see if spark is restored. There may be some other issue going on.

 

Really don’t want to plug up eec-iv anymore and risk any more damage.

Will try to see if I get spark while it’s unplugged.

I’m guessing no good advice on module mechanics in Colorado. This online company was offering $129.95 to reman my exact part number. Automated phone when called, and no response to my email. Couldn’t find them listed on Apple maps with the suite number listed on their online advertisement when I DuckDuckGo searched my ecm part number. An appliance repair shop was in the same building however but I’m leaning to suspicious online advertising at this point, unless I hear differently from someone here on the forum.

I tried emailing UpFix in Buford,GA. At least got an automated reply. They advertised online $269.99 to repair/rebuild the eec-iv.

Anyone ever used UpFix to rebuild an eec-I’ve?

More pics below from my adventures before pulling eec-iv.


Confirming calibration list sent by “subford”

Replaced ICM, thanks RockAuto.

For principal use above 4000 feet. Wondering if this is hurting this whip down here in Alabam?

Tried using old coil from Jeep XJ , used jumper wires and one bolt holding to bracket. New NGK coil is now installed but not in this early diagnostic pic on this trip to rescue this whip.

 

Did your fuel pump run constantly?
Could you get codes from the computer?
Lots on ebay, most SD20B should work. See if you can get one locally.
I fix them myself, haven't sent one away, and usually can find one locally.

 

Rat lunch area has been fixed just no pic taken

Another angle of rat lunch area
[img alt="Fixed rusted tank
New pump/sender on rear tank"]https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford-trucks.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/aab3f1b9_6dfa_401b_8b9c_1a67ca096f87_d322673ad4ca3 8e7994907df0e281fc34f607cfc.jpeg[/img]
Fixed rusted tank New pump/sender on rear tank

Pinholes fixed eventually get new tank

Front inline main pump and filter

New inline main fuel pump
wwhite,
new fuel pump(s) seemed to prime up correctly with key in on position. Momentarily run to build pressure then cut off. Tried cranking with remote “Lone Wolf 5000” push button starter to isolate possible ignition switch as cause of no spark during crank, I mean it’s an ‘89 so possible bad ignition switch.

Can smell fuel real easy while it’s trying to crank. Only spark I ever got was only one spark after turning key from start to run and of course it was not able to run only had one spark plug grounded directly off the coil wire bypassed the distributor entirely for testing purposes. Performed all led and regular bulb test light diagnostic test to determine ICM was not firing coil. PiP was pulsing correct. ICM was getting PiP signal during cranking rotation. Replaced Ignition Control Module and put new coil on just because I just wanted to have lots of new components all starting out as new.

have noticed can’t find single white wire with red tracer for jumping to red diagnostic plug for getting check engine light codes. Finally found where rat chewed wires to AC pressure switch on AC drier and in same ray chew/lunch area saw the white with red tracer wire chewed off. Fixed many other rat chewed wires before ever even trying to crank over this whip. Did rear tank and pump /sender freshen up and moved forward to ultimately replaced main external in line fuel pump and of course main fuel filter.

 

I have an 87' F150 5.0L XLT Lariat 2WD, and the cal sticker has been removed so all I have are the VIN:1FTCF15N3HNA38424 and the sticker on the air filter housing left which is:E7AE-9C485-CFT. My EEC is aftermarket and am just looking to put an actual Ford component back in or atleast find the correct one for my truck.

@subford if you can assist with this matter it would be greatly appreciated sir. I see you are the SME around these parts haha.

 

Update after getting EEC-IV capacitors replaced/overhaul performed by UpFix.

plugged in, still crank no spark, smell fuel.
ordered PIP from RockAuto.
took distributor apart with my shop press. Pressed back together with shop press.
noticed that pin 6 on module and ground pin on module ground to distributor body. Old module and new module both do this. So how does this fly if I thought the ground was to be provided by EEC-IV through pin 16 of the EEC-IV?
Will try this “rebuilt” distributor again and try to get spark.





UpFix repaired.

Capacitor replaced

Capacitor replaced

Foot well drinker’s side E150 Van. Hannibal’s Seat location;-)

Vacuum tank temporarily connected, was missing lines to it so connected it where it must have broken off .