For 4-97A-R0:
The F4TZ 12A650-AKA is the Ford part number.
The number on the unit would be F4TF-12A650-AKA.

 

Thank you so much subford! Really appreciate you!!!

 

Hello subford....would you mind helping out with some info, I'm looking for a spare ecm.

Truck 1996 F350 460 EOD 4.10's

Calibration code on sticker 6-98A-R00

additional number on the calibration sticker F6AE-6E061-SSZ

Thanks in advance

 

Truck 1996 F350 460 EOD 4.10's
For 6-98A-R00:
The number on the unit would be F6TF 12A650-AHA
And F6TZ 12A650-AHA is the Ford part number.

 

Awesome! Thanks a bunch, I really appreciate the help!

 

wow great thread looks like it has been going a long time. I am in a similar pickle as a lot of these folks here that @subford has really seemed to help. I have a 1981 bronco custom 351W, C6, 4x4, and I am building it from a heap of trouble. I replaced the engine years ago and life happened it got put aside. I am now back in it and trying to build it right and stock (California smog). trouble is this guy could be a 7200VV carb or 2150, it IS an EEC NOT MCU. engine harness is hacked and unfortunately the old engine and calibration code sticker are long gone. I want to see if there is a way to figure out the original code. The found in truck ECA is: E0AE-12A650-A1A and calibrator: E1VF-12A649-L1B, VIN:1FMEU15G8BLA35534. Does this help? is there anything here or more I can provide? I have a massive amount of factory manuals training guides and engine/emissions facts book. all these sources just get me close but not exact I feel like I am working in theory here. Thank You so much in advance.

 

Hello new to the forums as a member but long time info searcher and end up here alot lol I'm coming to the conclusion my ecm is bad been chasing codes I can't erase and driveability issues for the past 3 yrs.
I sent my ecm out to have some traces and caps repaired and 633 code is still in the ecm. Ive tried everything under the sun and done every trouble shooting idea Ive found to no avail so now looking for a reman ecm looking to verify what I have is what I need and what brand of ecm to stick too and best bang for my buck if possible in this day and age.
IDK if this thread is still watched or used by the dates of the latest posts but I hope this gets seen soon tia.

 

While the ideal solution is an exact match of your calibration code, that's not usually a requirement as long as you match the powertrain configuration. I speak from experience, having successfully used an assortment of '87 - '95 PCM's in my '91 4.9 5-speed. Admittedly, I've got a little more flexibility since I've got a manual transmission, but my point stands.

 

So how do I find another power train config to fig out another pcm I can possibly use? I have no jy near me to rummage.
I've spent all my breaks n lunch at work calling part stores and they said I have to go to a specialist online as my pcm is unavailable.
Couple of places online quoted me anywhere from $800 to 1650. I was like wtf how can this be so expensive and other pcm configuration u can get low as $150.

 

His calibration code and the number on his PCM are a match.

 

Well, you have a 7.5l 460 engine E4OD, any EEC-IV SD48E hardware will work.

With only that one code, I'd say your EEC is fine.

What drive-ability issues you having?

 

I wrote wrong code Originally I had only 1 I couldn't erase then even after I sent it out to have the caps and traces fix the code was still there and still cant erase them now that I have 2 of them.
1.633(O)4x4L switch should be in 4×2 or 4×4 high for the test ( Switch for 4x4 on transfer case has been replaced light now works 4x4 worked before regardless but replaced sensor hoping to make code go away and fix shifting issues) I disconnected pcm connector and tested #10 for continuity and voltage as I manually changed from 4x4h and 4x4 low got 12v in 4high and ground when in 4l which now makes me question the 533 code now.
2.533(M)Data Communications Link to instrument cluster failure – see 529
I been having I guess it would be early shifting issues can't drive in ( D ) I have to turn Od off drop to 1 then do old school shifting. Ive tried to solve this by anything and everything I can find on the net for the past almost 2 yrs. If I'm seeing voltage change on wire 10 then why does the pcm still see me in 4x4 low when I'm not?
Ive pulled plugs checked for corrosion, loose connections, tried to trace my harness's and there grounds, checked trans module plug, replaced ect, 4x4 transfer case switch, tps and verified voltage and sig return it's within spec .98 idle 4.95 wot, psom was sent out and serviced works and verified calibration in settings and gps due to going through 3 new vss sensors to finally get a working one. Checked all grounds I could find loosend cleaned connections retightened and verified 12v ground .
Serviced drained and filled trans replaced filter no metal shaving and fluid still looked nice and red. Unhooked rabs no change, #8 fuse is good cluster and all gauges work dome light and cargo with 3rd brake work and even replaced the housing with a new one and proper small 194 bulbs. I have no manual and can't find proper wiring diagrams to trouble shoot some more. I originally thought pcm was the issue and caps n traces went bad because when I bought the truck the windshield leaked like a faucet. So wifey and I pulled it and resealed it, then also read about the cowl issues and ofcourse mine was fubar and after removing the carpet I found a giant piece of metalcovering a hole in my driverside floor board which I'm gonna say was from the cowl leak so I fixed that.

I'm at a loss with this truck this thing has beat me up mentally and physically, I only use the truck during the winter and maybe during nicer weather if I need to make a lowes run or something. This issue has kinda come and go before it got this way this time around it was parked had battery out as I use it in my mustang during the non snow covered rds season. I put battery in to go haul some rocks and this thing just acted crazy didnt want to go anywhere in D trans was chattering. It had acted like this before when I had it parked awhile then it just fixed itself by the time I could tinker with the truck.
Sorry for long read idk if I should post this somewhere else maybe I'm missing something and more can help idk. I do know I just want to solve this so maybe I can actually focusing on putting things back together and actually getting a inspection sticker on it. I get alot of dirty looks on a 2 yr old expired sticker lol.

 

Update I found another pcm off ebay cost me $400 truck drove awesome for 5 days. Got up went to work and it started acting like it was having fuel issues or misfire. I trouble shooted everything.
For shts and giggles swapped old pcm back in the problem is gone, now back to square one with hard code I can't erase and shifting like a 3 on the tree now.
I have no clue what way I can go or how to search for another pcm that is capatible with my truck. Any chance u can point me in the right direction? Now I got to replace a radiator as well we got -34 and running straight antifreeze it popped a leak. This truck just beating me up replacing parts and costing me. Anyways thanks for any assist.

 

no wonder it popped. straight antifreeze has almost no freeze protection and absolutely junk for cooling properties

 

Did you open the $400 PCM to see if caps were ok, before installing, or after, for that matter, quality isnt the main goal, anymore, with parts, el cheapo is.