I only difference I noticed was that the shift points are quicker with the 93 Bronco PCM. I attribute that to the fact that the truck has a factory tow package and the original 94 PCM was calibrated as such.

 

This is the bad item in my PCM … does anyone know how to order a replacement capacitor? I’m not sure which of the circled numbers identify item type. Maybe someone has purchased these and knows where to get them and a replacement part number. The vehicle is a 1992 F150 4.9L with man Tran. Thanks.

 

Sure.
But I order extras and I had 4 PCM's to put caps in.
Attachment 277829
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Again I “Thank You” subford. Your contribution is deeply appreciated.

 

I'm new to the forum and have a 1988 Ford F50 4WD 4.9 V8 and I need a new PCM. All I have is the original calibration number 7-54-J-R11. The PCM in the the truck is a replacement painted silver. Can you help with a part number?

Thanks in advance.

 

2010SHELBY:
That calibration number of 7-54-J-R11 is for a 1988 5.0L engine and not a 4.9L.
And for the 5.0L engine the computer would be:E7TZ 12A650-AUB
OR
E8TZ 12A650-FA
As the parts list list both numbers.

 

92 F150 XL 4.9 (I6) Manual RWD Extended cab 2 tanks 123K Texas VIN
Computer: F2TF-12A650-ARB
Looking for recommendations for where to buy an EEC.
Are used ones from eBay reliable?
Why does O'Reilly have a selection ranging $110-$260 with different P/Ns? What's the difference?
$371 at fs1inc.com Why so much?
Any particular brand that's best?
Thanks.
-Greg

Background;
Those of you who have contributed to this site are pure patriots- thank you for your efforts. Your past responses have been quite valuable to me over the last weeks.
I've owned my truck since 94 (2nd owner) and it's been a great machine with little to no need for attention nearly the whole time. Went to start it after being parked a year and crap it didn't want to run. First time ever that it didn't eventually begin to run ok, like it had old crappy gas or bad plugs. So I changed the gas but that didn't help, then gave it new plugs, wires, a battery (starts fast!), and cleaned all the ground points. Then I found 0.7V on my TPS VREF (should be 5V), and luckily found no short (0.0 ohm) between disconnected EEC connector pin 26 (VREF) and ground (battery disconnected). Now I'm here with the original EEC that I hope is the source cause of the many circuit codes and nasty noxious barely running condition. I'll probably mess with the caps at a later date since the PCB may also need work.

 

WOW! No doubt those are bad, Cardone is what most of us have gotten, they are all rebuilt, no news...anywhere, dont pay new price, when you get it, open it and check it, before assuming...or you can send yours off to get fixed. if not driving is option, wasnt for me.

 

Those caps are like a buck and a quarter each, simple soldering skills, common sense, fix your self.

 

I purchased the caps from the site subford recommended. The cost was minimal and they arrived quickly. Since I don’t solder well I took my pcm to a cell phone doctor (recommended by the GEEK Squad at Best Buy) who removed the old leaking caps and soldered in my (3) new caps for $49.00. I reinstalled the pcm and and all is running well! Hardest part of it all was removing and reinstalling the pcm - but being patient helped. However, as I was backing out of the garage, I noticed an oil spill near where my passenger side rear tire sat. Now I get to I replace a leaking wheel cylinder. But that’s how the journey unfolds sometimes.
Thanks again subford. You really helped me out.

 

Going to post this because I'm at my wits end. I have a 1988 Ford Customer 302 CID 4WD. Fighting an on going drivability battle. After cranking it up and hearing run so smooth. Rev the engine , no problem. After 10 mins or 15 mins the engine just shuts off.
I have replaced both fuel pumps , the distributor , throttle housing with TPS , PCM and both relays. Still does it. Took it to my work (GMC dealership) , have a guy 26 years experience working on Fords. Mostly diesel but some gas. All we can say it is not a fuel issue and when it quits they is still power going through the PCM relay. We are stumped. Anybody out there ever encountered such a Gremlin? Truck was running great till it just quit.

 

What codes, are present, have you put a gauge on it and watched fuel pressure, under load, that year has 3 fuel pumps, 1 in each tank, and high pressure on frame, when it shuts off will it crank right back up?

 

All very good questions.

 

Thank you for your response. I bought a Cardone after having a pro do an exceptional job replacing the caps and then finding the same lack of 5V on VREF... Wow did that suck. But with the replacement ECM it runs better than I remember (maybe the new plugs and wires?). Need to take it for a spin next. The solder work on the replacement looked rushed/sloppy/subpar. Two jumpers on the back- ok fine. No conformal coating. I'm very grateful to see code 1 1 1 though and very happy these boards are still getting repaired.

 

Thanks. Agree! I bought caps and although felt comfortable with the job I wanted a seasoned tech to do it. Reason is because I had a funny feeling something beyond the caps was to blame and didn't want to second guess my talent if the new caps didn't work. Since the new caps didn't fix the issue, I can only speculate that an old battery charger finished it off. I have no shorts.