Wish I woulda known about those posts before I threw out the old hubs. I would of liked to have seen if I could have remedied the problem.

Stewart

 

If you drill a small hole in the recessed part of the hub after it is off and let it sit in ATF overnight it should free it up and then put a small sheetmetal screw in the hole. Also, I hear you can turn the dial 1/4" past lock after you remove the insides, pop the dial out, and clean it up or install a generic O-ring.

 

Yeah, I came across a thread where you posted that, but only after I'd already installed new Warn hubs and thrown my OEM ESOF hubs away.

I would have liked to have tried that to see if it would have solved my problem.

Stewart

 

Still looking for AUTO ESOF HUBS, my got hit on the edge & got cracked so I need a replacement set.

 

Should be easy to find, how about the market section?

 

99-04 F250/F350 EXCURSION LOCKING HUB | eBay

99-04 SUPERDUTY F250 F350 EXCURSION AUTO LOCKING HUBS NO RESERVE! OEM | eBay

Here are some new ones

OEM NEW 1990-2004 Ford F-250 AUTO Locking Front Hub PAIR | eBay

 

I have just gone through this this thread and others trying to answer a simple question. i have just purchased my X and this is my first Ford truck with 4X drive. My Ford service rep says i have to lock hubs before going into 4X. The owners manual says it is on the fly. There is a locking **** on the hubs. How do i use 4X?

 

The hubs are 'automatic' with an option to manually lock them - in the event the auto function fails to work.

If you've read this thread, you can see the auto function of the HUBS can be problematic - usually due to vacuum leaks in the activation system. When this is the case, you would need to turn the **** on the hubs clockwise to lock the hubs AND flip the 4wd switch on the dash. Either way, if the auto function works - or if you manually lock the hubs - it is still 'shift on the fly'.

The most common issues seem to be STIFF ***** on the hubs making them difficult to turn and/or hubs that do not unlock themselves after using the auto function. For this, follow the link to Guzzle's site and 'rebuild' them.

FWIW, I don't use 4wd all that often (compared to the miles I drive) - so I always check to make sure hubs actually unlocked after using them. With truck in 2wd, I either spin the front driveshaft and look for both axle shafts to spin or grab each axle and make sure it spins. I've met quite a few Superduty owners who had no idea how long they'd been driving around with one hub locked. Sometimes, one will remain partially locked and make a grinding noise - no idea how long it can do that without damaging hub.

Oh, and welcome to the forum!

 

Well my 4x4 selector, hub& axel engages like it should then release like it should ,
However last night I notice click-click-click , So I jacked the truck up when I got home(01 F250 SD 4X4 V8 Gas ) and rotated the hubs to lock and noticed axel turning like it should then when I switch locking hubs to auto it freed up the front axel and front shaft so we know that this parts work's when the truck up in the air.<O></O>
<O></O>
..click click-click back again my way to work ... I got out and locked the hub my self for testing purposes and start driving...i didn't get the 4x4 grip like I do get it when i use my electronic /vacuum selector
Took it to mechanic he jacked it up all locking hubs are set on auto at this point , did the same test when hubs set to lock . result all spin like they should . we set the hubs to auto but He used an extra long pry bar and stuck inside the wheel spindle and spun the wheels , driver side wheel free spinning but the passenger wont spin without trying to spin the pry bar out of his hand ..
<O
He said that i need to replace my locking hubs as the passenger one wont free it self...<O></O>
How is that possible ... At 1st when I set the hubs to lock it wont catch on 4x4 but when i use the selector she good as gold, the shop say i have one hub that don't free... <O></O>
Am i missing something here when I set the hubs to lock manually? Is his diagnostic seems right or the right side should do that ? <O></O>
<O></O>
But If it won’t free it self then why it’s not catching manually but it does with the selector? <O></O>
I was going to take the locking hub apart, clean them and repack them with grease <O></O>

 

from my experience the dreaded click click from hubs is usually a sign that they are bad. you could try and service them (as i did to no luck).but in the end i didnt want to go thru the frustration and went ahead and installed the Mile Marker 449s. i could care less if i lost the autolock feature. i know for sure with the MM hubs that it is either locked or unlocked when i need them. i dont mind getting out and turning the thing to lock/unlock em..summit has em on sale.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ubs-cheap.html

 

Installed the Warns on my X friday, got them from Amazon for 208.00, we have Prime with Amazon, so they shipped overnight for 3.99. Easy install took less than 30 minutes

 

I have a question... Why are some going with the mile marker 449SS versus the warn premiums for over $200? Does anyone know the difference that actually warrants spending the extra $120 for the warns? Or is it just a, I like warns, I like mile marker thing. Just asking.

 

I have read about Mile Markers failing over time, but have yet to hear about Warn's failing.

Not saying Warn's are bullet proof, but I'll pay a little extra for peace-of-mind.

Stewart

 

Warn has been around since day one.

 

Hmm. Ok. But even a Rolls Royce might break too. And I do understand piece of mind though. The last thing I would want to worry about is hubs, tires and such. But, for the price difference, id buy 2 sets of mile markers and keep em for exactly that. And still be $20 in the green. Just me though.