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Gotta question, now I'm not sure if all the hubs are the same but this is to 'drilling a hole in the cover' On mine, that silver bar across the face of the **** is a sintered metal filter of some kind, found out while soaking it with silicone and operating it that it started blowing bubbles through the silver. Used that to suck a bunch of silicone inside the hub.
I just bought a set for my truck. 4 more sets left. Cheapest price I could find. Some guys posted $75-$85 but I have not seen any for that price. Most are $165 plus shipping.
Link: Mile Marker Supreme Locking Hubs 449SS NEW IN BOX | eBay
Gotta question, now I'm not sure if all the hubs are the same but this is to 'drilling a hole in the cover' On mine, that silver bar across the face of the **** is a sintered metal filter of some kind, found out while soaking it with silicone and operating it that it started blowing bubbles through the silver. Used that to suck a bunch of silicone inside the hub.
You're supposed to drill a hole in the recessed part, soak it in penetrating oil overnight, and then put a short sheetmetal screw in it.
Hey guys, I've got a 2003 F250 4dr Lariat FX4 shortbed (deisel) ... The 4x4 seems to work fine, but after reading this thread it brought a few questions to mind. I'm not the original owner, but I've got/read all the manuals.
1st - My hubs only have two dots on them. Does this mean mine aren't auto-locking?
2nd - If they are auto-locking, does anyone know the code to making them work in auto?
The hubs are difficult to turn and I was going to rebuild them but if they aren't auto there doesn't seem like much point when aftermarket hubs are better quality.
I just bought a set for my truck. 4 more sets left. Cheapest price I could find. Some guys posted $75-$85 but I have not seen any for that price. Most are $165 plus shipping.
Link: Mile Marker Supreme Locking Hubs 449SS NEW IN BOX | eBay
Hey guys, I've got a 2003 F250 4dr Lariat FX4 shortbed (deisel) ... The 4x4 seems to work fine, but after reading this thread it brought a few questions to mind. I'm not the original owner, but I've got/read all the manuals.
1st - My hubs only have two dots on them. Does this mean mine aren't auto-locking?
2nd - If they are auto-locking, does anyone know the code to making them work in auto?
The hubs are difficult to turn and I was going to rebuild them but if they aren't auto there doesn't seem like much point when aftermarket hubs are better quality.
Thanks!
If they are black plastic they are probably the originals, and yes they are auto-locking. They have an auto position (counter-clockwise) and a lock position (clockwise). Mine were difficult to turn a few years ago but I kept turning them back and forth (with channel-locks, actually!) and they loosened up after a few minutes of working on them.
No one seems to have an answer for this one locally so i thought I'd throw this out on the Net.
I was going to have my autolocking hubs replaced with manuals. But the factory auto lockers stick out about 3 inches further than the manual hubs. When you put the original hub cover on with the manual hubs on it of course stands out 3 inches further than the manual hubs. Looks dumb with the cover on and dumb with the cover left off. Does anyone make a cover for the factory rims the same height as a pair of manual hubs?????
There is one thread (do a search in the 7.3L forum using the search term "Warn hubs" and you'll find it) where a member modified the OEM unit by cutting it down, removing the lug nut springy clamp thingies in the hubcap and replacing them with a set out of an F150 hubcap cover.
If they are black plastic they are probably the originals, and yes they are auto-locking. They have an auto position (counter-clockwise) and a lock position (clockwise). Mine were difficult to turn a few years ago but I kept turning them back and forth (with channel-locks, actually!) and they loosened up after a few minutes of working on them.
Yes, they are black plastic and I keep a set channel-locks in the glovebox for just such an occasion! LOL
Ok, so, using your righty-tighty/lefty-loosey theory ... When the center bar is aligned with the dot it should be in auto.
Living in S.FL the benefits of auto-locking far outweigh the cost to replace them. This truck will never see dry river beds or 30* slopes, but slipping into 4x4 when a road floods or traffic gets unbearable ... That's priceless!!
Yes, they are black plastic and I keep a set channel-locks in the glovebox for just such an occasion! LOL
Ok, so, using your righty-tighty/lefty-loosey theory ... When the center bar is aligned with the dot it should be in auto.
Living in S.FL the benefits of auto-locking far outweigh the cost to replace them. This truck will never see dry river beds or 30* slopes, but slipping into 4x4 when a road floods or traffic gets unbearable ... That's priceless!!
Oh I agree completely on the convenience of auto hubs. When they work I love them. I do wish, however, that Exes had traditional mechanical locking hubs like those on my 92 F150. Mine have always worked flawlessly even after all the mud and water they have been under through the years. It is beautiful to push a button on the dash and keep chugging.
Guys. I am totally confused from reading this thread. I have a 2001 V10 4x4 that the wife and I picked up about 4 months ago. This is the first vehicle I have owned with manual locking hubs and the push button inside. There is reference to auto hubs. Inorder for mine to work I need to lock them outside and then push the button on the inside correct? Why didnt they just put a shifter on the floor like my Dodge had instead of this button crap?