I am picking my new F-350 2004 Tomorrow and this is my first diesel ever. what is the best oil to use in this 6.0 PSD. I looked at AMSOIL and it looks like a great oil for a diesel engine. has anyone used these oils that claim no oil change needed until 60k.

 

I don't believe Amsoil has any API rated diesel oils. Your warranty could be voided if you use other than API oils so I'd pick another synthetic oil to use, if you want to use synthetic.

See this thread for more info.

 

noone claims their oil last for 60K mi.
i use amsoil 5W-30 synthetic, and its great. i gained mpg, lost the smokey start-up and am lookin forward to 8-10K oil changes.

its not "certified", but neither is the beef i eat, and trust me, i'll never buy beef at wal-mart again

i use amsoil in most everything i own. including my lawnmower its yet to let me down.

and if the ford dealer says the oil caused a failure, amsoil will investigate, and correct the sitiation. (be it prove ford wrong, or fix the problem)

many posters in here dont like amsoil, and some do. u need to decide for urself by doing a search on syn oils in these forums.

also u should give time for ur rings to fully seat, like 15-20K mi. thats how i do the pullin tractor engines i build....just a thought

 

Welcome to FTE

I don't use amsoil. I use Mobil 1 Truck SUV.

I believe you should be able to use anything you want without some nut making a life or death case out of it.

One thing I know for sure, BigHoss550 is one of the smartest guys on this Forum. A lot smarter than some of the nut cases this thread will bring out.

 

I think any synthetic is a good move the engine will run smoother and get better mpgs also.

 

I should any diesel approved diesel oil, I run the rotella 5w40 .

 

Stay as far away from a product from a MLM company that you can, Amsoil (commonly called Scamsoil) being one of them!!!!! The product cost is higher with a MLM company, because money goes into so many different people's pocket, not because the product is better. In a lot of cases, the product quaility is worse, why do you think a lot of Scamsoil products aren't API certified??? People that have been brainwashed by Scamsoil will tell you Scamsoil will warranty the damage caused by their product (guess why they say that??) but if you read the "fine print" on the Scamsoil website warranty, it says for the warranty to be active, they require you to get a warranty statement in writing for the vehicle you are using it in!! People that have been brainwashed by Scamsoil show signs of being a
cult......just notice the "Pro Scamsoil" posts after this one!!

If you want your warranty to stay valid, make sure you use a API certified oil in your new diesel!!!! This will save you a lot of headaches from using a product like Scamsoil!!!

 

haha thanks, bob mobil 1 is a good one too(delvac 1/ truck and SUV are the same now, correct?)

hey, ASE, enjoy your freedom of choice...... i can tell ya from experience that "scamsoil" makes an excellent product

call em what they may, amsoil takes good care of their customers. thats a huge part of the buying process for me, knowing that good people(some i know well) are backing up what they are selling. u dont find that in many places anymore......

 

ASE:

Go to the Amsoil website and look around--decide for yourself. As for me, I have used it exclusively since 1997: 1997 4.6 F150 (188,000 miles, 9 oil changes); 1999 4.6 F150 (155,000 miles, 7 oil changes); 2001 5.4 SuperCrew (55,000 miles, 2 oil changes); 2002 V10 F250 (88,000 miles, 4 oil changes); and now I have an F350 with 6.0 and using Amsoil 5W-30 HDD in it. Because of my miles, I got tired of going to oil change places every 4-5 weeks, then there is the case for the amount of used oil to be recycled at 3-5000 mile changes. Yes, I am a "dealer" but I only use the dealer status to get wholesale pricing. The ATF is great, also, just can't use it in the TorqueShift.

Read all the threads on "what oil to use" and try to figure out what you would be comfortable with. One other item, get the Fumoto valve for your oil pan if you are going to change it yourself.

 

I hate just to express an opinion on this topic, because I"ve seen it batted around so much it's almost makes me sick.

But before I start, let me make one point:

You engine was carefully engineered to run a lubricant that meets a very specific set of criteria. And your owners manual tells you what those requirements are. (Also your engine was tested during design evaluations under severe conditions with this type of lubricant and likely while even using other lubricants.)

That being said, I'd like to offer that if you are running a stock engine (even under severe conditions) that a synthetic oil is likely not necessary, and that you likely are just waisting money on a more expensive synthetic product. (Unless you live in a cold climate.)

In the same breath, I will say that good synthetic oils do have certain general properties that are superior to most conventional oils. Cheif amongst these is the ability to maintain stability at high temperatures with out chemicaly breaking down, the ability to withstand higher pressures on the oil film without breaking down, and the ability to maintain the approximate same viscosity at cold or high temperatures.

Despite the fact of some of the above advantages of synthetics, you would be fooling yourself to believe that you can significantly extend the oil change interval on a diesel just by running a synthetic oil even if it is certified for diesel use.

Here is why:

One of the properties of oils designed for any cumbustion engine involves additives in the oils that counteract the byproducts of fuel combustion itself. Although exhausted gas from a diesel is more emvironmentaly clean from an air quality issue, diesel fuel combustion by products contain more chemical "junk" that is detrimental to the oils and lubricated internal parts than a gas engine. This is one of the big reasons while diesels have huge oil capacities and large filters. A diesel certified oil contains more and different chemicals that react with or bond with these byproducts to aid in neutralizing their harmful effects on the engine internals. A new oil has a limited chemical capacity to get this job done. When you change your oil, you refresh this chemical ability. A filter cannot substantially affect this chemical property because you are dealing with molecular sizes rather than much larger chunks. Also, even though a filter might trap the large chunks, it does not remove them from the oil stream. Oil continuously cycles across the trapped particles in the filter even though they may be trapped inside.

If you have a stock engine, save your money, do your changes as scheduled.

I'm not too much into branding of oils, but you will find that many, many big and expensive diesels have been run on either of the two oils already mentioned. (Some of these engines have have run for more than a half a million road miles before a major rebuild.) Those brands again are Shell Rotella and Mobil Delvac.

The last thing, I never, never run any filter unless it is an OEM filter. I don't care whether it's a Honda a Toyota or a Caterpillar. The filter that goes on my engine will be from the manufacturers stock..no cross references for me here! (I know, I know... WIX or FRAM may have made it, but unless it's in the manufacturers box with the OEM part number, it ain't going on my engine.)

((Now if you are going to pump 800 Horses out of a 350 Cubic inch gasser at 9,000 RPM for 600 miles, then you most certainly better be thinking synthetic...and nothing else.))

(((BTW: I have solved a couple of lubrication related situation on critical industrial equiptment by switching to synthetic products in certain situations.)))

Synthetic lubricants are great lubricants, but they are not always the best in terms of cost-benefit. In addition, oil companies are the best at "adverising hype" and slight of hand in making you believe what they have is the best. (What ever happened to the Shell "Platformate" fuel or STP anyway?)

Everybody has one the above is mine.

 

Well, that post most certainly meets my stamp of approval. From now on, when an oil war starts again, I think this would be a good link to post to shut alot of it up.

 

I think if you check out AMSOIL's website at www.amsoil.com it will answer all your questions. All of their oils meet API's highest ratings and they will definitely NOT void your vehicles warranty. I just became an AMSOIL dealer and I use their 0W-30 Severe Service oil in my truck. It's rated for 35,000 miles/one year between oil changes, but I plan to get a oil test done at the end of that time because I've heard of this oil lasting over 100,000 miles. They make a few excellent diesel oils that are rated to last three times longer than than the engine manufacturer's specifications. Also, if you use AMSOIL filters you only have to change the filter every 12,500 miles/six months.

 

You are correct, according to the website. Amsoil IS API certified. I am sure that it is true if it is posted there, otherwise they would be facing fraudulent claims charges in a matter of notime. This should silence a LARGE number of the silly arguments that go on here. Thanks for the info and link.

 

Watch out for the wording on the Scamsoil website, there is a difference in saying a "oil meets API specifications", and an "oil is API certified"!!!! Most of the Scamsoil website is full of BS, ...they are trying to prey on people that don't know any better!!!

For the Scamsoil products that ARE API certified, check out this website:

http://eolcs.api.org/DisplayLicenseI...LicenseNo=0995

What's interesting, Scamsoil's products that are supposed to be used for "extended change intervals" ARE NOT API certified!!!!!

Again, STAY AWAY from the products from ANY MLM company!!!!

 

This is so interesting. Here's an Amsoil dealer that's even fooled by them! As you look through the the Amsoil website, here's the key phrase to look for:
"Recommended for Applications Requiring the Following Specifications"

This means the oil is NOT API certified. Amsoil tries to make you believe the product is, even including a little look alike API label on the bottles. Some of their oils, as Bob points out above, are API certified but most are not. I just can't believe that a dealer would be fooled on this, too.

BTW, the last place I'd go for objective information about a product is a companies website.

Amsoil may have the best oil in the whole world, for all I know. The point is that without it being API certified, I'd be risking my warranty to use it. Since there are other great products out there as well that are certified, I choose to not risk my warranty.