Amsoil Oil????
#63
Originally Posted by Hjudge49
I really try to stay out of the "oil wars", but now i'm facinated. What does Amsoil cost per quart?
I don't particulary care what they use(I use Mobil Delvac 1). I do feel that anyone who wants to state that they use Amsoil should not be subjected to abuse.
That is why I have come to the conclusion that these people are nut cases, fixated on certain issues that pushes their button and gets them foaming at the mouth.
Do you remember a few years back when some mental hospitals were giving their criminally insane patients computers and internet access so they could safely expose them to society as therapy? I think these people may be part of that experiment!
#65
Choctaw, I wasn't trying to start anything, I really wanted to know what the stuff costs. I guess sometimes I'm too curious for my own good. Since i don't own any stock in any oil companies, opr any aftermarket compaies at all for that matter, I don't have a dog in the fight. But I'm glad Tim's back. Things have been a little rugged the last week.
#66
Originally Posted by Hjudge49
Choctaw, I wasn't trying to start anything, I really wanted to know what the stuff costs. I guess sometimes I'm too curious for my own good. Since i don't own any stock in any oil companies, opr any aftermarket compaies at all for that matter, I don't have a dog in the fight. But I'm glad Tim's back. Things have been a little rugged the last week.
I assume that anything that is sold MLM is high dollar, but I don't know. The price should not be a major factor. It doesn't make much sense to pinch pennies on maintenane of a $40K truck. I use Mobil 1 because I feel that it is the best oil at any price. I have used it since 1975 in every vehicle I've owned and never had a bearing faiure. That doesn't mean that another oil might not have doen as well with regular changes, but why change what works. I'll bet that the money I could have saved on all the oil changes since 1975 would be less than $200 to $300. That is really peanuts when you consider the value of the vehicles.
#67
I agree completely that pinching pennies is dumb on these trucks. I plan to drive mine til the wheels fall off, and would rather that be longer that sooner. I've had mine since April 2003 and have 34000 miles on it already. Like I said earlier ( I think) I used Mobil 1 in my 1997 C5 corvette and it was excellent with 10,000 mile changes and wonderful oil analysis results. I started using the Delo at the second change because it was readily available, and since the truck ran well with it, I just stuck with it. But if i was going to try to extend the change intervals, I'd be all over a synthetic. It's all a matter of personal preference, which is why I can't understand anyone getting worked up over what someone esle is using in their engines.
#68
I never realized my first post ever here on this forum would bring such a heated debate. I called my Service technician at the ford dealership who is certified and has been working on diesel engines for 20 years. He told me not to waste my money on a synthetic oil and the real key is to change out the oil about every 5,000 miles depending on driving conditions. Sounds to me that for a truck that is worth over 40k, we are kicking around nickels and dimes on the oil changes over the years. my last truck was a F 350 V-10 1999 and I changed everything according to the maintenance in the book without having one problem with the truck. The truck never went back to the dealership other than a Speedo cable recall. Now how's that for Ford Built Tough, Now my other BF trucks ( Before Ford ) Chevy=Crap silverados all fell apart just when the warranty's were expiring. Engines, transmissions, rear seals, electronics you name it and it happened. I was using Enterprise rentals so much everyone knew me by my first name, all thanks to chevy garbage and almost 90k in wasted money. Never again will I go back, I am ford to I die. If someone here says you can get a lemon with any vehicle I would say your right but at least ford stands behind the ones that you find. I had one brand new turd chevy that I couldn't start in the cold weather 30F and under unless you put the truck in a clear flood mode by stepping on the gas and pumping it until it ran for about 5 min. Chevy said that it was normal ( huh ) and the dealer tells you that you are not alone everyone has the same problem.
#69
Originally Posted by ASE
I never realized my first post ever here on this forum would bring such a heated debate. I called my Service technician at the ford dealership who is certified and has been working on diesel engines for 20 years. He told me not to waste my money on a synthetic oil and the real key is to change out the oil about every 5,000 miles depending on driving conditions. Sounds to me that for a truck that is worth over 40k, we are kicking around nickels and dimes on the oil changes over the years. my last truck was a F 350 V-10 1999 and I changed everything according to the maintenance in the book without having one problem with the truck. The truck never went back to the dealership other than a Speedo cable recall. Now how's that for Ford Built Tough, Now my other BF trucks ( Before Ford ) Chevy=Crap silverados all fell apart just when the warranty's were expiring. Engines, transmissions, rear seals, electronics you name it and it happened. I was using Enterprise rentals so much everyone knew me by my first name, all thanks to chevy garbage and almost 90k in wasted money. Never again will I go back, I am ford to I die. If someone here says you can get a lemon with any vehicle I would say your right but at least ford stands behind the ones that you find. I had one brand new turd chevy that I couldn't start in the cold weather 30F and under unless you put the truck in a clear flood mode by stepping on the gas and pumping it until it ran for about 5 min. Chevy said that it was normal ( huh ) and the dealer tells you that you are not alone everyone has the same problem.
#70
Originally Posted by Hjudge49
I agree completely that pinching pennies is dumb on these trucks. I plan to drive mine til the wheels fall off, and would rather that be longer that sooner. I've had mine since April 2003 and have 34000 miles on it already. Like I said earlier ( I think) I used Mobil 1 in my 1997 C5 corvette and it was excellent with 10,000 mile changes and wonderful oil analysis results. I started using the Delo at the second change because it was readily available, and since the truck ran well with it, I just stuck with it. But if i was going to try to extend the change intervals, I'd be all over a synthetic. It's all a matter of personal preference, which is why I can't understand anyone getting worked up over what someone esle is using in their engines.
Delo is a good oil. Regular changes and you will probably never have a problem. I use the Mobil 1 because it flows a little better. I think this may be important down the road because of the way the injectors work off a 4,000 psi pump.
#71
ASE,
Aren't you enjoying this, never a dull moment and you get plenty to think about. There is plenty of info, just read away and learn, then choose what works for you. I am a freak, love to change oil and get under the truck, love the smell of it and 15w-40 or whatever oil I'm changing works great as a hand lotion, none of that Bath and Body Works Flowery stuff for me. So, since I count down the miles till I get to change my oil, I use Rotella 15w-40 every 5,000 miles, works well in the Oklahoma climate. I also prefer not to go to Walmart because I always choose the longest line, so I buy my Rotella from Tractor Supply Company. Think it over and weigh the advantages and disadvantages.
There are a lot of opinions here on FTE. One fact, there are also a lot of intelligent members, so your question was a good one and yourself and several other members just learned a whole bunch. Welcome, and stick around to continue learning...Deac
Aren't you enjoying this, never a dull moment and you get plenty to think about. There is plenty of info, just read away and learn, then choose what works for you. I am a freak, love to change oil and get under the truck, love the smell of it and 15w-40 or whatever oil I'm changing works great as a hand lotion, none of that Bath and Body Works Flowery stuff for me. So, since I count down the miles till I get to change my oil, I use Rotella 15w-40 every 5,000 miles, works well in the Oklahoma climate. I also prefer not to go to Walmart because I always choose the longest line, so I buy my Rotella from Tractor Supply Company. Think it over and weigh the advantages and disadvantages.
There are a lot of opinions here on FTE. One fact, there are also a lot of intelligent members, so your question was a good one and yourself and several other members just learned a whole bunch. Welcome, and stick around to continue learning...Deac
#72
bighoss550, I understand where you are coming from, but the owners manual says the oil has to have the specific rating, not meet the criteria for that rating. Amsoil may meet the criteria, but it does not have the rating. The ONLY reason I bring this up is that I feel when people ask a question they need to be able to make an informed decision.
Choctaw Bob, I don't think anyone was attacking anyone else here. Everyone is entitled to share their opinions on BOTH sides of any thread/debate. The more opinions, facts, and information that are posted, the more information people have to make their own decision. The attacking tends to go in the reverse on this topic. A lot of Amsoil users get offended that someone finds anything negative about Amsoil. From all I've read, people are only sharing opinions and information. Someone shouldn't be flamed for sharing their opinion and information about a subject. Posts on BOTH sides of this debate get out of line, not just one side. Sure, the same people post against Amsoil when this comes up, but the same people also post for Amsoil and often get rude to those members who post anything negative about Amsoil.
Choctaw Bob, I don't think anyone was attacking anyone else here. Everyone is entitled to share their opinions on BOTH sides of any thread/debate. The more opinions, facts, and information that are posted, the more information people have to make their own decision. The attacking tends to go in the reverse on this topic. A lot of Amsoil users get offended that someone finds anything negative about Amsoil. From all I've read, people are only sharing opinions and information. Someone shouldn't be flamed for sharing their opinion and information about a subject. Posts on BOTH sides of this debate get out of line, not just one side. Sure, the same people post against Amsoil when this comes up, but the same people also post for Amsoil and often get rude to those members who post anything negative about Amsoil.
Last edited by johnsdiesel; 07-27-2004 at 04:30 PM.
#73
Here it is out of the manual:
I do not see a mandate in there. Is there more demanding text in another area? This came from page 28 and 29.
Engine oil specifications
To help achieve proper engine performance and durability, it is important
that only engine lubricating oils of the proper quality are used in your
Diesel engine and that the engine oil is changed no later than the
recommended interval. Diesel engines require specially formulated oil to
resist contamination. Proper quality oils also provide maximum efficiency
of the crankcase ventilating system which reduces air pollution.
For normal or severe service, use Motorcraft oil or an equivalent oil
conforming to Ford Specification WSS-M2C171–D or API Service
categories CI-4, CI-4/SL or DHD-1. If CI-4 oil is not available, CH-4 is
acceptable.
General maintenance information
Engine oils with improved fuel economy properties (energy conserving)
are currently available. If you use an energy conserving oil, be sure it
meets the recommended Ford Specification, API service categories and
SAE viscosity grades listed in the Lubricant and Maintenance Materials
Specifications chart. Some energy conserving oils do not meet the
requirements necessary for your Diesel engine.
* Heavy duty trailer towing with ambient temperatures above 10°C
(50°F) requires 15W-40 engine oil.
The use of correct oil viscosities for Diesel engines is important for
satisfactory operation. Determine which oil viscosity best suits the
temperature range you expect to encounter for the next service interval.
A symbol has been developed by the American Petroleum Institute (API)
to help you select the proper engine oil. It will be included on the oil
container you purchase. The top section of the symbol shows the oil
performance by the API designation.
This should match the owner guide recommendation. The center section
will show the SAE viscosity grade. The lower section will state energy
conserving if the oil has proven fuel saving capabilities.
To help achieve proper engine performance and durability, it is important
that only engine lubricating oils of the proper quality are used in your
Diesel engine and that the engine oil is changed no later than the
recommended interval. Diesel engines require specially formulated oil to
resist contamination. Proper quality oils also provide maximum efficiency
of the crankcase ventilating system which reduces air pollution.
For normal or severe service, use Motorcraft oil or an equivalent oil
conforming to Ford Specification WSS-M2C171–D or API Service
categories CI-4, CI-4/SL or DHD-1. If CI-4 oil is not available, CH-4 is
acceptable.
General maintenance information
Engine oils with improved fuel economy properties (energy conserving)
are currently available. If you use an energy conserving oil, be sure it
meets the recommended Ford Specification, API service categories and
SAE viscosity grades listed in the Lubricant and Maintenance Materials
Specifications chart. Some energy conserving oils do not meet the
requirements necessary for your Diesel engine.
* Heavy duty trailer towing with ambient temperatures above 10°C
(50°F) requires 15W-40 engine oil.
The use of correct oil viscosities for Diesel engines is important for
satisfactory operation. Determine which oil viscosity best suits the
temperature range you expect to encounter for the next service interval.
A symbol has been developed by the American Petroleum Institute (API)
to help you select the proper engine oil. It will be included on the oil
container you purchase. The top section of the symbol shows the oil
performance by the API designation.
This should match the owner guide recommendation. The center section
will show the SAE viscosity grade. The lower section will state energy
conserving if the oil has proven fuel saving capabilities.
Last edited by SBV45; 07-27-2004 at 04:27 PM.
#74
#75
Originally Posted by johnsdiesel
That seems like a mandate to me, although maybe more indirect than my owner's manual. "Should" is not the same as "it would be a good idea" or "it is recommended."