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Jack covered that earlier, but if there's RTV in there, I would plan on removing the intake in order to clean it out.
DieseltechRon's oil cooler video covers intake removal if you aren't familiar with the procedure.
I think what looks like spilling over RTV is just the gasket/seal falling apart. So "Disconnect the CAC tube at the elbow and the fuel line bolt to the manifold. Loosen all the intake bolts" is what Jack mentioned, now would I have to pull the EGR valve as well?
For posterity/ future searches: Yes the smaller seal on the delete. One issue with it is that it's not bolted together, the exhaust port is where the bolts are. Looks like you're good there there and have found the issue though.
I've re-sourced Viton rings for several vehicles instead of buying OEM. Things that used to leak don't with the better seal installed, like fuel pressure schrader valves, Fumoto plugs, etc.
I think what looks like spilling over RTV is just the gasket/seal falling apart. So "Disconnect the CAC tube at the elbow and the fuel line bolt to the manifold. Loosen all the intake bolts" is what Jack mentioned, now would I have to pull the EGR valve as well?
There are four lines coming off the fuel filter housing. Two are the intake and return lines that go down about 18 inches and then connect to hoses and are flexible. The other two are hard lines from the housing to the banjo bolts in the front of the heads.
Loosen the two hard lines to lift the intake: (red #1 and #2, green are input and return) I guess maybe there's a chance you don't have to loosen #2 to the driver's side head, but #1 that goes across the front of the block you'll need to take loose for sure, at least from the intake as Jack mentioned but there's not a ton of play in the line to move the intake around inside of what's essentially a cage made by the hard lines and filter housing since they're bolted to the oil cooler base. Maybe it is enough to sneak the seal in, I've honestly never tried to replace just the donut. For intake gaskets I needed more room than I could get with the line in place.
There are four lines coming off the fuel filter housing. Two are the intake and return lines that go down about 18 inches and then connect to hoses and are flexible. The other two are hard lines from the housing to the banjo bolts in the front of the heads.
Loosen the two hard lines to lift the intake: (red #1 and #2, green are input and return) I guess maybe there's a chance you don't have to loosen #2 to the driver's side head, but #1 that goes across the front of the block you'll need to take loose for sure, at least from the intake as Jack mentioned but there's not a ton of play in the line to move the intake around inside of what's essentially a cage made by the hard lines and filter housing since they're bolted to the oil cooler base. Maybe it is enough to sneak the seal in, I've honestly never tried to replace just the donut. For intake gaskets I needed more room than I could get with the line in place.
I have a fuel bowl delete as well as a fuel pressure regulator setup so that will complicate things I'd imagine.
I have a fuel bowl delete as well as a fuel pressure regulator setup so that will complicate things I'd imagine.
Ahh yeah it might. At this point with how much you've done for down maybe just take the four bolts out of the oil filter housing and lift the entire mess clear. At that point you can pretty much remove the whole intake if you wanted.
I didn't see it anywhere on this page, there are also two 13mm bolts that go through the stator into the front of the intake IIRC.
Ahh yeah it might. At this point with how much you've done for down maybe just take the four bolts out of the oil filter housing and lift the entire mess clear. At that point you can pretty much remove the whole intake if you wanted.
I didn't see it anywhere on this page, there are also two 13mm bolts that go through the stator into the front of the intake IIRC.
I won't get the new O ring till next week and it will be back down to -20c by then so I might just put everything back together and put up with the leak till spring.
I didn't remove the fuel lines; I just removed the bolt holding the clamp for the line. This is not inclusive of everything you need to do, but I made this short out of a longer video not published for a person who was replacing the front cover. Yeah, there's a story behind my video.
Does one of you fellas know if the turbo has to be removed to get the intake manifold out completely? Nobody mentioned that, but I've read a few posts about the turbo blocking access to some of the intake manifold bolts so I'm just trying to get a game plan figured out here so I can get done as quickly as possible.
Also if anyone know all the socket sizes required to get this all done that would REALLY help speed things up
Your '03 probably still has the back portion (crossover) of the intake, unless you have modified it - so "yes", remove the turbo. This assumes you are removing the intake as you seemed to indicate you were going to do in posts 45 and 46.
