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Leaking coolant again :(

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Old Dec 5, 2024 | 11:19 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by texastech_diesel
What's the flow route out of the oil cooler with your system?

A j-hook EGR delete would still have the nipple cap seal at the oil cooler base, a hose, and an o-ring in the bottom of the intake manifold.

IPR Research is a solid bar so no hose, but removes the cap and has o-ring seals on both ends.

BPD is either a hose to a j-hook delete or a hose run somewhere.
This is what the delete looks like:


 
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Old Dec 5, 2024 | 01:50 PM
  #32  
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Usually, the delete kits are notorious for leaking.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2024 | 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by TooManyToys.
Usually, the delete kits are notorious for leaking.
There's no leak coming from the black silicone hose where it meets the J tube and the leak has to be coming from the very front of the engine as the truck is on an incline and there's coolant at the front cover so I'd assume it's that intake doughnut that's leaking, but can't get a good enough look without removing stuff first. I haven't ran the truck in weeks and it's STILL pizzing coolant so I'm going to get the engine up to temp on Saturday and see if the leaking stops and if it does I'll hight idle for 30 minutes or so to burn off the coolant on top of the engine then see if it starts to leak again when cold.

Curious if it would be safe to put some coolant dye in the degas bottle to help me track down the souce of the leak or would that not be advisable?
 
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Old Dec 5, 2024 | 03:32 PM
  #34  
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J-Hook delete. Most common leak points are the hose/clamps coming off the oil cooler, and the o-ring on the bolt side that goes into the underside of the intake. If it's not the hose, still might be good to check underneath where it goes up. That's where my leak was. IMO pull it out and check the o-ring anyways as part of loosening the intake and lifting to access the donut.

 
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Old Dec 5, 2024 | 08:36 PM
  #35  
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The connection under the intake manifold was always a problem on my last truck. It leaked with the stock EGR cooler, and it leaked with the Dieselsite delete. That's why I had a threaded lug welded into it and screwed an elbow in. No leaks there now, but I'll always be waiting for the connection at the oil cooler to leak, at least until I spring for BPD's new hose barb adapter:

https://bulletproofdiesel.com/collec...r-4c4z-8592-aa

But I may wait long enough for them to figure out how to machine a round, consistent barb.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2024 | 06:57 AM
  #36  
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Yesterday evening I cold started the truck(-12c)which it DID NOT like very much then ran it on high idle till EOT/ECT got to above 150f and once it got to that temp there was no more coolant dripping and I shut off the engine. After that I started it up again and put it back into high idle for the purpose of burning the coolant off of the block and then the engine experienced a good deal of surging while high idling. For a while now I've noticed a very faint surging during normal idling and every time I check FORSCAN all the numbers are well within the norm such as FICM volts, IPR/ICP, FICM sync, battery volts and so on and I've posted the data here numerous times and been told everything looks good, but even so I believe it's time to replace my ICO and IPR with OEM units as the one's in the truck I can't confirm are OEM and even though the numbers look good I've seen multiple video's on 6.0 surging being caused by either a faulty ICP or IPR or both. I figure replace the ICP first and if surging goes away then all is good and then I can replace the IPR come spring. Thoughts?

Videos of surging with both EOT/ECT above 150f:


 
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Old Dec 6, 2024 | 07:33 AM
  #37  
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Read a few more posts on here about rpm surging being caused by a faulty vgt solenoid so that's something else I'll need to look closely at seeing as how the IPR and ICP numbers always look good.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2024 | 10:36 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by texastech_diesel
J-Hook delete. Most common leak points are the hose/clamps coming off the oil cooler, and the o-ring on the bolt side that goes into the underside of the intake. If it's not the hose, still might be good to check underneath where it goes up. That's where my leak was. IMO pull it out and check the o-ring anyways as part of loosening the intake and lifting to access the donut.


If it is the egr delete pipe that's leaking it would be the smaller O ring on the right side correct?


 
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Old Dec 6, 2024 | 12:12 PM
  #39  
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Yes. The other seals the hole in the intake where the exhaust would enter through the cooler.

I went to the dealer looking for that o-ring when the joint leaked, but they said there was no call-out for it. Just like the power steering hose seals.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2024 | 12:37 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Fuzzpuss
Yes. The other seals the hole in the intake where the exhaust would enter through the cooler.

I went to the dealer looking for that o-ring when the joint leaked, but they said there was no call-out for it. Just like the power steering hose seals.

I checked that J shaped delete tube and it's bone dry on both ends so the leak must be coming from the intake O ring which would make sense seeing as there coolant on the front cover itself. As mentioned earlier the truck is on a slight incline so if the J shaped delete pipe was leaking there wouldn't be any coolant on the front cover.

No call out, does that mean the intake O ring is something they don't stock?
 
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Old Dec 6, 2024 | 01:37 PM
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100% confirmed that it's the intake to front cover seal/doughnut!

I've got the alternator and right side CAC tube off thus far and will pull everything else off the top of the engine so tomorrow I can hopefully replace that seal and put everything back together. Tomorrow has a unheard of high of +4c so I want to get it all said and done by sundown.




 
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Old Dec 6, 2024 | 01:57 PM
  #42  
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Almost looks like someone used our TV instead of the donut, unless I’m miss reading the image.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2024 | 02:06 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by TooManyToys.
Almost looks like someone used our TV instead of the donut, unless I’m miss reading the image.
Looks like the black O ring just chewed up a bit, but could be some RTV perhaps. Called around and I won't be able to get my hands on the part till early next week when it will be back down to -20c so now I'm wondering If I want to try some RTV or something while the weather is nice.

What exactly do I have to remove to be able to lift the intake just enough to get the old seal out and slide a new one in there?
 
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Old Dec 6, 2024 | 02:22 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by wpg_250
I checked that J shaped delete tube and it's bone dry on both ends so the leak must be coming from the intake O ring which would make sense seeing as there coolant on the front cover itself. As mentioned earlier the truck is on a slight incline so if the J shaped delete pipe was leaking there wouldn't be any coolant on the front cover.

No call out, does that mean the intake O ring is something they don't stock?
No call out on their schematics means they don't even have a part number.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2024 | 02:25 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by wpg_250
Looks like the black O ring just chewed up a bit, but could be some RTV perhaps. Called around and I won't be able to get my hands on the part till early next week when it will be back down to -20c so now I'm wondering If I want to try some RTV or something while the weather is nice.

What exactly do I have to remove to be able to lift the intake just enough to get the old seal out and slide a new one in there?
Jack covered that earlier, but if there's RTV in there, I would plan on removing the intake in order to clean it out.

DieseltechRon's oil cooler video covers intake removal if you aren't familiar with the procedure.
 
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