Just to add a bit of my own experience to what Chris and Cody have said above. I run 65 PSI in the front and 75 in the rear for my truck that tows heavy 90% of the time it is moving. I do this because after testing and evaluating various PSI settings on both the front and back, I found this to be the best marriage between comfort, capability and confidence in towing.

My Cooper S/T MAXX may not be a true MT like the Toyo tires you are running, but they have ~60,000 miles on them and I am on track to get 75,000 or a bit more. Proper inflation, rotation and monitoring is essential to the life of the tires and that is critical because these tires cost too much to just burn through them.

Picture of the S/T MAXX is below for tread reference sake.

 

I have had the same success with the Cooper S/T Maxx as well but with all four tires at 80psi. When you get the proper alignment YOU WILL know! The 99-04 trucks wear the front tires remarkably well. I am no Saint, sometimes I will go 12,000 miles between rotating the tires. When I do, the front tires are almost completely flat, MAYBE a little feathering on the edge lugs after 12k. Alignments and front tires are funny, some people have problems with them, others never have problems. I am the "others" never had a truck aligned on racks and have never had a problem either. My OBS has a Dana 50 TTB front axle (notorious tire wearer) that has had everything replaced and aligned by myself, it can go 10k EASY without rotating tires.

 

I added air to the front tires up to 65 PSI, and I put the back at 60. I'm probably going to put those at 65 but, for now I'm going to try it at 60. When I tow, I'm usually only towing no more than 6,000 lbs. That's including the trailer. Usually less than that. But I do it every week for work. Sometimes it's hard numbers than that but usually not.. I will see how it goes. I really have bad feelings about that shop that I went to and I think I'm going to take it to another alignment shop just have everything gone through by a better shop one time. It would give me peace of mind. I do think I have a very slight pull to the right. It's very hard to tell, almost just me being nitpicky about it. But I want to be able to take my hand off the steering wheel and not have to hold it to go straight. I will definitely ask around and find a better shop. But even if I do that, all they're going to adjust is toe incorrect? How would that cause my truck to pull to the right? Don't really know how to feel about it. That's all the other shop adjusted was toe in but now my truck pulls to the right whereas it didn't before.

 

People way smarter than me have mentioned that camber? on the right side helps control the drift to the right due to the crown on the road. Mine does it too. enough to where I think when I get new shoes for it, I'll have it aligned.

I run the same tire as Sous...will I get 75k? I don't think so....but I'll get 60k.

 

when was the last time you checked the camber/caster bushing

 

When I changed out ball joints a month ago. It may have been longer than a month but it was just done within a couple of months ago. The bushings looked fine.

Except for, the bushing on the driver side looks like it was sitting up a 16th of an inch after the ball joint was put in. The video I posted in this forum a couple pages back showed it off but I will post a picture in a little bit. the bushing itself is like a 16th of an inch off of the knuckle but the ball joints and everything are tight.

It may be worth me taking that knuckle back off and resettling the bushings after cleaning.

Edit:

 

did you reinstall it back in the exact same position? They should of adjusted that sleeve for camber and caster. Or installed a new one. Your sleeve has a degree setting stamped on it already. A new ball joint is great but if the sleeve isn’t adjusted right you’re still gonna wear the tire out. The tie rod misadjusted or loose would wear the tire out as a cupping/rubbing but it would be across the whole tire tread surface as that adjustment is used for steering adjustment not camber or caster.
If you can get your truck on a flat surface you can use a magnetic angle finder guage to adjust the camber yourself. But the shop should of adjusted for camber especially after yiu complained about wearing out $450 worth of tires

 

The particular bushings on my truck are non-adjustable. The bushing is a D shape and the flat side since against a flat piece of steel. It can only go back in one way. So by that I mean it is in the exact same position as it was when I took everything off to begin with. Sure the sleeve may be able to be changed but it is not adjustable at least on this early 99 axle. But, the bushings are all in one piece and in good shape from what I can tell.

 

The more I think about it, I just don't see how that 1/32 - 1/16 of an inch Gap in that bushing could cause my alignment to be jumping out of place that bad. Especially since I retort the ball joint after driving and everything I would think that bushing settled in where wants to be. That is the same position the ball joint sat in with the old ball joints. It may not be exactly the same but it had that Gap with the old ball joints on that specific one.

I did a lot of driving today for work and my alignment seems to be getting worse. The truck is swaying around on the road again. Hard to keep it centered. I'm trying to decide if I should just take it to a better shop and see what they say. Obviously I'm overlooking something after everything I've done trying to diagnose my problem. I will post a video of it pulling to the right in a few minutes.

 

those bushings can be purchased with varying amounts of degree settings. It may not be adjustable on the truck but you can buy them with different degree. If you were here I would throw it on my rack. Have you done the axle shaft u joint? If those are seized they can cause the wonder you are talking about.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...+bushing,13508

 

 

they should of never let it leave the shop and you shouldn’t of accepted their reason as to why they can’t fix it. If it didn’t do that before either something they did or you did caused the issue.
I’m confused as to what wheels you have on the truck and what wheels were used when you aligned it. Usually it doesn’t make much difference unless you have some steamroller wide wheels/tires which will track the road surface more than a stock thinner width wheel/tire
i have two of these trucks and overall had aboit 6 of them over time and my 99 is doig a bit of wondering but it’s a old steering box that I gotta swap out. Did they by chance adjust the steering box? If they over tightened it it could cause the wondering too.

 

I do know that you can buy different bushings with different degrees of camber but, the truck was not pulling one way or the other before. That's what I'm confused about. The pothole I hit on the interstate busted my ball joints and the hub bearing was ruined. That was on the driver side that all of that happened. Everything is new now. So the hit was on the driver side but I'm pulling to the right. Besides that, after the first alignment at the shop my truck wasn't pulling to the right anymore. But I was still wearing tires. After the second alignment, I don't appear to be wearing tires but my truck is pulling to the right. And I don't see how a toe in alignment can cause all of this. All of the after papers from the alignment shop say caster and Camber are within factory spec. To be honest Im torn on what my next step should be. Take it to a better shop? Try new camber bushings? Take it to an axle shop and have them inspect everything? I'm kind of stumped.

 

When it does this does it feel like it's the front wandering or the rear walking out from under you? I know you said something about new bushings in the springs. Was that front and rear and did it include the shackle bushings also? Have you given the bushings a close inspection recently? I know they're new but I wouldn't rule anything out right now. The gearbox could also be to blame. It's not like they have the best reputation to start with.

 

Toe caster and camber can contribute to wondering . And “within factory spec” means crap because your truck is no longer new so there are varying degrees of wear. Personally I think the bushing is worn out and causing a bit of the issues. You ever have a shopping cart where one of the front wheels wobbles as you’re pushing it? Those caster wheels do that when the bearings wear out.

what’s the psi on the tires. I run mine at 70.

I would also check the axle. I know Dana’s are tough but if you slightly bent the axle tube no amount of new parts is gonna make up for it. Grab a straight edge and check the tube. Look where the tube goes in the center housing any fresh looking metal where the tube is pressed in the housing?

What didn’t you change on the truck as far as parts in the front suspension/steering?