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I personally don't think that slight bend is causing an issue, I'm focused more on the rust where those hangers push up into the factory hangers, that appears to me as possible movement spot. You can probably straighten out the bend some with a good crescent wrench. Its hard to speculate without being able to put hands on it.
Is it pulling to the right on all roads? Remember the crown of the road varies alot but generally slopes to the right. If your able to find a less traveled road have you tried running over the middle of the crown to see if its still pulling?
I don't think the lift bracket is causing my alignment to be bad to be honest. I think it's just what's making my cab hang down. I have driven about 2,000 miles since my last alignment and my tires look great. I just recently did that chalk test and it turned out great it's just that my truck is pulling to the right now. I'm not wearing tires weird anymore from what I can tell. Just that the truck is pulling to the right. And it is definitely pulling to the right. I did kind of like what you just said but I got on the opposite side of the road where the slope should make me go off the left hand side of the road but my truck still wanted to go to the right so it actually evened out and went straight but it should have been going off the left hand side of the road because of the slope on that side of the road.
Even though that lift bracket I'm sure is probably not causing my alignment troubles, I still don't like that style of lift kit anyway because of the weird attachment style of just having one bolt holding the lifted part up. Kind of a junkie style to begin with. I want my cab to sit level so I feel like I should replace the known bent brackets anyway. Personally I think my tire wearing issues are behind me. The truck didn't pull the right before I went to the shop so I don't know what they did to make it pull to the right. I think I'm going to check my toe in this afternoon if I have time.
I don't think the lift bracket is causing my alignment to be bad to be honest. I think it's just what's making my cab hang down. I have driven about 2,000 miles since my last alignment and my tires look great. I just recently did that chalk test and it turned out great it's just that my truck is pulling to the right now. I'm not wearing tires weird anymore from what I can tell. Just that the truck is pulling to the right. And it is definitely pulling to the right. I did kind of like what you just said but I got on the opposite side of the road where the slope should make me go off the left hand side of the road but my truck still wanted to go to the right so it actually evened out and went straight but it should have been going off the left hand side of the road because of the slope on that side of the road.
Even though that lift bracket I'm sure is probably not causing my alignment troubles, I still don't like that style of lift kit anyway because of the weird attachment style of just having one bolt holding the lifted part up. Kind of a junkie style to begin with. I want my cab to sit level so I feel like I should replace the known bent brackets anyway. Personally I think my tire wearing issues are behind me. The truck didn't pull the right before I went to the shop so I don't know what they did to make it pull to the right. I think I'm going to check my toe in this afternoon if I have time.
When the truck is pulling to the right where is the steering wheel spokes as far as level.
let’s assume your truck has a 5 full turn of the steering wheel from lock left to lock right where is the steering wheel when the tires are poor f straight ahead? Are the top spokes at 9-3 and the bottom spokes at 7-5? Or are they cockeyed eyed? Could the shop possibly not set the steering wheel to straight so while we’re all
assuming it’s pulling it’s just a matter of the steering wheel location being what’s the problem?
as far as the cab the suspension has nothing o do with cab not being level on the frame. That’s usually a worn collapsed body bushing.
jiat so you know the front sprig hanger is held to the frame by the three bolts that hold the tow eye. So if you only have one bolt holding that bracket it may be that it’s moving around as you drive
Edit: one of those is not on PMF's website. I'm gonna order from them. Should I get a bash bar?
one is a 2 inch one is a 3 inch.
the front crash bar that’s on the 2001s? My 2001 has it and I freaking hate it. Yiu cN see it cause I have a Ranch hand style bumper I made and when I designed the sides I made them sweep up so yiu can see the corners of the crash bar.
When the truck is pulling to the right where is the steering wheel spokes as far as level.
let’s assume your truck has a 5 full turn of the steering wheel from lock left to lock right where is the steering wheel when the tires are poor f straight ahead? Are the top spokes at 9-3 and the bottom spokes at 7-5? Or are they cockeyed eyed? Could the shop possibly not set the steering wheel to straight so while we’re all
assuming it’s pulling it’s just a matter of the steering wheel location being what’s the problem?
as far as the cab the suspension has nothing o do with cab not being level on the frame. That’s usually a worn collapsed body bushing.
jiat so you know the front sprig hanger is held to the frame by the three bolts that hold the tow eye. So if you only have one bolt holding that bracket it may be that it’s moving around as you drive
When I hold the steering wheel straight the truck goes straight and when it pulls the right the steering wheel turns to the right a little bit.
All I'm saying is that lift bracket being bent is going to make that whole side of the frame sit lower on that corner.
I know how the front hanger is held on. The lift bracket for the lift kit is bolted into the original leaf spring bolt hole. So that means there was only one big bolt holding the lift kit bracket in place. That is how it was designed. That's why I was saying earlier it was a crappy design to begin with.
When I hold the steering wheel straight the truck goes straight and when it pulls the right the steering wheel turns to the right a little bit.
All I'm saying is that lift bracket being bent is going to make that whole side of the frame sit lower on that corner.
I know how the front hanger is held on. The lift bracket for the lift kit is bolted into the original leaf spring bolt hole. So that means there was only one big bolt holding the lift kit bracket in place. That is how it was designed. That's why I was saying earlier it was a crappy design to begin with.
If there is only one bolt holding that lift bracket your whole axle may be shifting. What is locating the bracket to the frame? Are there tabs that overlap the frame outer section?
i guess I’m not picturing the current lift bracket you’re running .
If there is only one bolt holding that lift bracket your whole axle may be shifting. What is locating the bracket to the frame? Are there tabs that overlap the frame outer section?
i guess I’m not picturing the current lift bracket you’re running .
I made a short video showing off the lift brackets. I did not buy these they were already on the axle when I got it and I actually did not know they were installed until after I put the truck together and had way too much space above my tires. It was my first time messing with the front leaf springs on these trucks so I did not know how it was supposed to be and thought those brackets were factory. Of course now I know ALOT more about these front axle setups thanks to these awesome forums with all of you awesome people!
Ok I see what it is now. It’s basically like a lift block. The top bracket is the factory bracket the “lift bracket” just spaces the mounting point of the spring eye down x inches to achieve the lift.
why don’t you just weld the two brackets together at that groove. That’s basically what the new lift brackets are gonna do anyway.
there may be just enough slip there to create the movement that shifts the axle enough to make it wonder about
Ok I see what it is now. It’s basically like a lift block. The top bracket is the factory bracket the “lift bracket” just spaces the mounting point of the spring eye down x inches to achieve the lift.
why don’t you just weld the two brackets together at that groove. That’s basically what the new lift brackets are gonna do anyway.
there may be just enough slip there to create the movement that shifts the axle enough to make it wonder about
I would love to do that but, that side of the frame hangs an inch lower than the other side. We know the lift bracket is bent but where did the other bit go? That lift bracket is not bent enough to lose an inch So, I would have to straighten everything and find where my 1-in went before I could weld the brackets together. I guess if I took it off I'd be able to see it better. I'm just worried that that bracket won't be structurally sound if I bend it back. I have access to a oxy acetylene torch but, I know the lift bracket is not Bent enough to lose a whole inch, so that means we've lost some height somewhere else. Which would mean the factory spring hanger. I don't know if I'll be able to bend that one back because I haven't seen the bend yet. To be completely honest I'm not sure how I will find the bend in the factory bracket.