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I don’t think tire size should have any effect on toe.
We have been down this discussion path further up the thread. The at home toe adjustments were not cutting it, however tires were being cut regularly.
IMHO it was time for a visit to the “experts.” The original alignment shop visit found toe way out and corrected. The plan was for them to also find any other issues with the front end of the truck. Which they seem to have missed in my opinion.
My feeling is there is something wrong they are overlooking. The toe should not change so much in a few weeks. What is letting it move around?
U bolts? Ball joints? Wheel bearings?
”Good” alignment shops will check for slop in the front end before starting the job. Did they look it over good or just throw it on the machine?
^^^
All of this said by Jason summarizes my thoughts on the matter as well.
I have no clue. Here's a picture of the new papers. The only thing they could tell me was it was because of the bigger tires after the alignment was done with small tires. I don't know if there's any truth to that or not. Sounds like crap to me but I could be wrong.
I agree with you there. Sounds like they forgot to tighten the tie rod adjustment sleeve.
I also agree with Jason's remarks.
When I get off work today I'm going to make sure the tie rod adjusting sleeve is tight. I rotated my back driver tire to the front and vice versa this morning. I also retorqued my u-bolts. The driver side u-bolts were very loose. Passenger side was fine. My truck appears to be leaning down on one side again but I had the wheel turned when I was looking at it so I can't really judge that. I'll post pictures this afternoon if I remember. If I still have problems after this I'm going to go to a different shop. I would rather do everything myself but I have no way of telling if I have a bent axle or leaf spring.
That shop was supposed to be one of the good one around these parts or so I thought.
I had a truck once that had a broken front spring,2-wheel drive, always looked odd dipping on the driver's side, I went to do brakes and found the broken spring, the light went on! LOL
But I'm curious about this, so when you took it back to the shop did, they readjust things??
are you sure your front bearings are good?
I agree with Jason too, tire size should not affect the alignment
I would almost take it to another shop to double check everything over again, cheaper then burning up an even got a great deal on tire! Cause you're going to have to pay full price for the replacement!
I had a truck once that had a broken front spring,2-wheel drive, always looked odd dipping on the driver's side, I went to do brakes and found the broken spring, the light went on! LOL
But I'm curious about this, so when you took it back to the shop did, they readjust things??
are you sure your front bearings are good?
I agree with Jason too, tire size should not affect the alignment
I would almost take it to another shop to double check everything over again, cheaper then burning up an even got a great deal on tire! Cause you're going to have to pay full price for the replacement!
They readjusted toe. Yes my hubs bearings are good. I just redid them with all new hub and axle/dust seals. They were not brand new hubs, they were sent to me so they are used but they were in very good shape with low mileage. I have new rotors and brake calipers and mounting brackets so that I can convert to a 2000 style hub instead of the e99 hub. Just haven't had time to do it. I plan on doing that with all new seals again soon. No broken leaf spring but it could be bent and I wouldn't know. The shop should have told me if it was. I will look into some other shops.
I think it's more likely to have a bent axle tube from the previous wreck that the axle was in before I got it. That wreck bent the frame and totaled the truck. It could be a leaf spring. There's a whole bunch of things that could be..
The donor axle was from a totaled wreck that sustained enough front end damage to bend up the donor truck's frame?
Dana 60 axles have been bent before. If yours is bent, you'll have to pull your front axle off again to deal with it, so maybe don't run your soft compound BFG AT tires until you get this sorted out.
The rock crawler community is the most conversant in both conventional and creative ways to determine how much bend deviation exists, as well as methods and means to straighten D60 axles at the lowest cost.
Yes the later hubs will bolt right on, but you have to replace the brake rotors with later model also. The flange thickness is different so without the matching rotors the brakes will drag and wear out.
If the drivers u bolts were loose that could cause your tire wear issues. I'd keep a close eye on them and if it happens again hit them with some red thread locker. I'd pull a tape on the front end now too. Make sure the toe is still at least close. If you want to get fancy you can put it on stands and pull the front tires. Then mount a straight edge across the hubs and measure front and back. You can set one on the money like that.
Yes the later hubs will bolt right on, but you have to replace the brake rotors with later model also. The flange thickness is different so without the matching rotors the brakes will drag and wear out.
If the drivers u bolts were loose that could cause your tire wear issues. I'd keep a close eye on them and if it happens again hit them with some red thread locker. I'd pull a tape on the front end now too. Make sure the toe is still at least close. If you want to get fancy you can put it on stands and pull the front tires. Then mount a straight edge across the hubs and measure front and back. You can set one on the money like that.
I have new rotors, mounting brackets and calipers for a 2000 model truck. All I need are the hubs and I already found the ones I'm going to get. Jason pointed me in the direction he likes to go with the brand he likes to get. The hubs that are on there were sent to me and they have low miles and there is nothing wrong with them. They were just a get me by until I get mine thing but right now, I still owe Joel his hpop which means I need to buy mine, still have to deal with all these front end issues, at the moment it just seems like there's too much stuff going on to buy hubs at the moment if mine or not bad. Although it would knock another thing out.
The donor axle was from a totaled wreck that sustained enough front end damage to bend up the donor truck's frame?
Dana 60 axles have been bent before. If yours is bent, you'll have to pull your front axle off again to deal with it, so maybe don't run your soft compound BFG AT tires until you get this sorted out.
The rock crawler community is the most conversant in both conventional and creative ways to determine how much bend deviation exists, as well as methods and means to straighten D60 axles at the lowest cost.
You're going to send him to those savages? They'll eat him alive. Those dudes can be harsh. Not saying they don't know their stuff but you better have some thick skin with that crowd.
A simple method that should at least raise a flag if one exists to park on flat ground. Download a angle finder app to your phone, then start checking the angle each hub is at, the differential housing, and a few places on the tubes. The numbers should all be pretty close. If not then something is either bent or broken.
The donor axle was from a totaled wreck that sustained enough front end damage to bend up the donor truck's frame?
Dana 60 axles have been bent before. If yours is bent, you'll have to pull your front axle off again to deal with it, so maybe don't run your soft compound BFG AT tires until you get this sorted out.
The rock crawler community is the most conversant in both conventional and creative ways to determine how much bend deviation exists, as well as methods and means to straighten D60 axles at the lowest cost.
It's a bit complicated. I have a Dana 50 axle though I believe. I believe it was you who told me that when I first got it home. As you may remember I got my whole front axle/leaf spring setup from joel. He needed the motor out of a truck so he bought a wrecked truck to get the motor out of. In exchange for a day of my labor helping take the cab and the bed off and cut the frame up to haul off, he gave me everything to do with the four wheel drive that was still usable. The only thing that wasn't usable was the transfer case . The transfer case got pushed by the drive shaft which left a little crack in the case. It bent the tie rod adjustment collar and bent the frame just a little bit. I have pictures on my phone somewhere and Joel has a forum showing off pictures of the wrecked truck. Driver side frame rail was bent outward a couple of inches.
Also, I currently have toyo open country m/t's on my truck, Not bfg a/t's.
These model dana 50's and 60's are externally identical. Only the guts are different. Ball joints, hubs, rotors, brakes, even the outer stub axles are the same.
These model dana 50's and 60's are externally identical. Only the guts are different. Ball joints, hubs, rotors, brakes, even the outer stub axles are the same.
If the donor was a single rear wheel it's a Dana 50 if it was a dual rear wheel it's a Dana 60. You can also check the ID number on the lower left side of the third member if I remember right which should give you all pertinent information.
A dana 50 and 60 are not the same externally. The housing where it extends out to the yoke for the front driveshaft is different.
That said. Yes the hubs, ball joints, u joints, outer stub shafts etc. are interchangeable.
But if it is a 60 or a 50 isnt important. If it is bent or the springs are, or if the u bolts holding it on arent torqued enough, or if the spring hangers are bent, this is what is important at this point
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