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You're a man on a mission. I'm following along and looking forward to the end result.
Thanks Scotty, the weather is my biggest motivator right now. I am trying to get the new chassis ready to the point where I can transfer my cab over to it. That would allow me to get my existing chassis to my nephew before winter. I won't have access to a heated shop this winter so I will likely have to store my bed, front clip outside.
i managed to sandblast the rims I found along with the 9" rear today. The centre section was bone dry, probably for a considerable length of time. I have it basting in WD-40 to see if I can get it to turn.
I hope to salvage it but am prepared to replace parts if required. It is 28 spline, so may think about converting to 31 spline if pinion, ring and side gears are compromised.
Hit that diff with a pressure washer to start. You'd be surprised at how clean it will get. I also use Klean Strip paint & concrete prep (phosphoric acid) in a spray bottle or pan to soak rusty parts. Will not hurt the steel like muriatic (pool) acid will. I got the inside of my engine looking like new using it. I also just restored an old milling machine from 1948 using it. Looks new again.
I'd go nuts without a heated shop in the north. I can't sit still for a day let alone a long winter. Good luck with your project.
Hit that diff with a pressure washer to start. You'd be surprised at how clean it will get. I also use Klean Strip paint & concrete prep (phosphoric acid) in a spray bottle or pan to soak rusty parts.
i did power wash the innards, then air and then WD40. I think I will use Rust Mort on the stubborn areas. I removed the pinion and ring gears and was able to free up the ring gear bearings. The ratio seems to be 39 teeth/,13 teeth, so 3:00 ? I will continue on the pinion tomorrow.
I asked Mr Google for answers on identifying the year and make of the case markings but this resulted in a circular trip. There is stamping of C7AW on the case it has 28 spline, axles 61 1/4" width flange,to flange on 5x 5 1/2 bolt pattern. I was told it came out of a 69-70 F100 . I want to order bearing and seal kit once model is confirmed. I may have to reach out to Number Dummy.
I did manage to paint my rims today.
And yes, winter is coming.
Ha yes a little better. Did I mention the drain plug is seized in the case? So far oil and heat with an easy out have failed. It may require drilling and tapping.
The C7AW is a very common carrier, used for years. If you got the whole axle assembly with the truck axles and housing, it's likely the diff is original to that. On the 3rd member you should be able to find the casting date code, which will narrow down the year for you. The little metal tag that was once attached to the 3rd member attaching studs/nuts is the only accurate way to decode application.
That's it, the casting date of the pumpkin. 8 Feb, '67. Most likely then from a '67 F100.
Thanks Wayne. I tore the pinion assembly apart today removed the bearings. The ring and pinion gears have pitting due to rusting. I am going to take them into a gear shop for forensics this week. At this point it may be more cost effective to order a drop in 3rd member with different gear ratio and limited slip, retaining the 28 spline axles and case. I have 5.0L with AOD and 15" rims so thinking 3:50 or 3:73 ratio.
Thanks Scotty. I tore the pinion assembly apart today removed the bearings. The ring and pinion gears have pitting due to rusting. I am going to take them into a gear shop for forensics this week. At this point it may be more cost effective to order a drop in 3rd member with different gear ratio and limited slip, retaining the 28 spline axles and case. I have 5.0L with AOD and 15" rims so thinking 3:50 or 3:73 ratio.
Actually, that sounds like a good plan. If you're buying bearings, gears, a LS carrier, and any other miscellaneous parts necessary, plus labor if you need to farm it out, it probably isn't that much more to order one done with your choice of ratio and be good to go.
PS, I'm Wayne, not Scotty. Although I'm sure us Yankees down south all look alike, right? LOL
I have been moving parts around, putting things in storage and still hoping to transfer cabs between frames before the snow flies. The challenge is going to be finding room for the front clip, box and hood body parts off my project. The goal is to complete this so that I have my cab on the rolling chassis for winter.
The 9 inch rear I found has a trashed centre section so I may be running with the stock rear axle for now, and wait for Spring when the money tree starts to bloom again.
I am also toying with dropping a 239 back into it. it is getting more difficult to source quality parts for the 5.0L, so why not go with the cool factor and try to build a 239 for it.
Fingers crossed, both frames and cabs will be stored indoors before Winter.
I'm just fresh off a little first hand experience with a couple of stock flat head trucks. They have a unique sound and look. Modern 5.0L Fords are everywhere. I'd go with something rare and authentic to your truck if you can. Good luck and I hope you can keep on your schedule for getting your truck back on the road.
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