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I can't tell exactly from the picture what connector that is ... being under or near the fuel filter maybe the Tach sender connector ...I'll have to look at my truck tomorrow..
in the mean time IF it is this connector then for sure it needs fixing as they often fry
its right under the fuel filter on the inner fender. I also noticed that my tach will randomly work properly and then it will go to 0 when at idle
ok the OEM filter is mounted on the engine so you have had some modifications if the filter has been relocated.. so it is probably that connector that I posted the schematic for.
it was owned originally by the United States Air Forc and until around 2005 was on Wright Patterson Airforce base in ohio it was sold at auction and lived on a farm in Springfield Ohio till I bought it and I had to replace all the return lines and reseal all the injectors and put in all the glowplugs and a radiator. The fluid that came out of the transmission cooler when i did the radiator was red and did not smell burnt.. I refilled the trans with Motorcraft MercronV and that was that. Now I have noticed that when the tach is not working right it has a funky1st and 2nd shift that you barely feel and 2nd to 3rd feels normal but 3rd to 4th is a repeat of the 1st to 2nd shift and reverse comes on pretty quick. But when the tach is working normally it shifts like a normal truck. So I don't know. I really have not dove deeply into automatic transmissions.
there is at least 4 other Reluctance sensors you could use and way less problematic to adapt than the honeywell and way cheaper too.
the Amp is a simple fix for the OEM with Magnetic loss from Age and Heat.
simpler to just tap an alternator winding..... but I digress
ok the OEM filter is mounted on the engine so you have had some modifications if the filter has been relocated.. so it is probably that connector that I posted the schematic for.
The fuel filter is still on the engine and the fuel heater is not leaking. The farmer who owned it before me got rid of the stock fuel filter and put a Wix on it. So no sediment bowl or water drain on it. But that connector is what scares me. No fires please.
The fuel filter is still on the engine and the fuel heater is not leaking. The farmer who owned it before me got rid of the stock fuel filter and put a Wix on it. So no sediment bowl or water drain on it. But that connector is what scares me. No fires please.
So you mean you don't have the water separator on the bottom anymore, correct? Don't sweat it. I eliminated mine because it was letting in air. You can get a wix with the drain. The connector for the water isn't going to burn the truck up. The fuel heater has juice, so take care of that one if not used. You're overthinking dude. These are Flintstone trucks.
So you mean you don't have the water separator on the bottom anymore, correct? Don't sweat it. I eliminated mine because it was letting in air. You can get a wix with the drain. The connector for the water isn't going to burn the truck up. The fuel heater has juice, so take care of that one if not used. You're overthinking dude. These are Flintstone trucks.
_____________________________________ These are Flintstone trucks.
OK I looked at my 93.. while it may be a bit different than yours, The schematic is correct for either but my engine harness connector comes out under the Engine Fuse Box on the driver's side.
the harness on mine on the Passenger side is for Alternators and the Tach sensor
OK I looked at my 93.. while it may be a bit different than yours, The schematic is correct for either but my engine harness connector comes out under the Engine Fuse Box on the driver's side.
the harness on mine on the Passenger side is for Alternators and the Tach sensor
so thats probably why my tach is wonky. I am going to have to fix that today. I don't think the sender is the problem because all the wires are intact and when I pulled it it had zero metal on the pickup. The truck only has 146,500 miles on it. I also need to figure out how to rebuild my front factory lockers. The drivers side is wonky and sunk a bit but the passengers side works perfectly.
So you mean you don't have the water separator on the bottom anymore, correct? Don't sweat it. I eliminated mine because it was letting in air. You can get a wix with the drain. The connector for the water isn't going to burn the truck up. The fuel heater has juice, so take care of that one if not used. You're overthinking dude. These are Flintstone trucks.
yes it got down to 12 degrees F here in ohio last night and the fact the truck started without complaint on the first crank i believe is due to a working fuel heater and the brand new Motorcraft Glowplugs. My block heater cable is busted so I could not plug it in.. i want to replace only the cable is that possible?
_____________________________________ These are Flintstone trucks.
Hey.... I resemble that remark !
Hobo
Definitely a flint stone compared to my coworkers F250. Working at a Ford dealership can be beneficial but thats also how I found out I cant get the tach sensor any more. Obsolete as are the pads for trucks over 8500lbs mine is 8800lbs curb weight.
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