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Old Jan 21, 2021 | 05:14 PM
  #16  
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Dylan Fileccia
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Originally Posted by tjc transport
for the burned plug, i just eliminated it. i used inline crimp connectors, but instead of crimping them i soldered them and used heat shrink tube after to protect the connections..
I figured thats what I would have to do. Also I was told that I could get more power out of the truck by turning the pump up how do I do that or is it not really recommended?
 
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Old Jan 21, 2021 | 05:29 PM
  #17  
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tjc transport
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turning the pump up is really a thing for after turbo is added. for a non turbo truck, you really will not see much improvement at all.
to turn the injector pump up. you remove the little window on the side of the injector pump, then stick an allen wrench in and turn the screw up a tad.
but you should really have an exhaust temperature gauge installed before turning up the pump because it is very easy to cause engine damage due to high exhaust temps.
i set pump to just a very slight haze of smoke out of the tail pipe at full throttle under load.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2021 | 05:33 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by tjc transport
turning the pump up is really a thing for after turbo is added. for a non turbo truck, you really will not see much improvement at all.
to turn the injector pump up. you remove the little window on the side of the injector pump, then stick an allen wrench in and turn the screw up a tad.
but you should really have an exhaust temperature gauge installed before turning up the pump because it is very easy to cause engine damage due to high exhaust temps.
i set pump to just a very slight haze of smoke out of the tail pipe at full throttle under load.
I was curious because I have heard a lot about it and was trying to see if its worth doing. it has stock injectors and is their a certain way to turn it? I don't know if you can do that with the engine running or not.

engine off. when it is running the part with the screw you turn is spinning.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2021 | 05:55 PM
  #19  
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Use fusible links on the big yellow wires. You can keep the rest in the plug. Those are glow plug wires. I had the same thing happen. Your truck must have been next to my 91 when it was built. All the probs you describe I went through. LOL. Turning up the fuel isn't going to do much , maybe some black smoke. You want power, you're going to want a turbo. Take care of the small **** first. Like those wires. Unscrew the plug from the IP tower, the big 1" nut with the 2 wires. Take that out and clean the magnet on the end. Might have metal crap on it and put back together. See if the tach works better. Those 2 wires get beat up from your arm laying across the motor when your working on it.. So if they look open, you probably need a tach sensor. The speedo reading low could just be the speedo- it's old. I replaced the VSS twice, and guess what? It still didn't read correct. Chances of it being off a tooth are practically nil. Check the heater hoses where they rub. Right at the alternator bracket coming out of the water pump, and where it it tees off at the block under the fuel filter. They will wear through from rubbing. All that little stuff you have to look over. And don't throw money at something till you know you have to. I learned alot on my '91. Settle in, read up. It might take a little time to work the bugs out.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2021 | 06:03 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by jjqllc
Use fusible links on the big yellow wires. You can keep the rest in the plug. Those are glow plug wires. I had the same thing happen. Your truck must have been next to my 91 when it was built. All the probs you describe I went through. LOL. Turning up the fuel isn't going to do much , maybe some black smoke. You want power, you're going to want a turbo. Take care of the small **** first. Like those wires. Unscrew the plug from the IP tower, the big 1" nut with the 2 wires. Take that out and clean the magnet on the end. Might have metal crap on it and put back together. See if the tach works better. Those 2 wires get beat up from your arm laying across the motor when your working on it.. So if they look open, you probably need a tach sensor. The speedo reading low could just be the speedo- it's old. I replaced the VSS twice, and guess what? It still didn't read correct. Chances of it being off a tooth are practically nil. Check the heater hoses where they rub. Right at the alternator bracket coming out of the water pump, and where it it tees off at the block under the fuel filter. They will wear through from rubbing. All that little stuff you have to look over. And don't throw money at something till you know you have to. I learned alot on my '91. Settle in, read up. It might take a little time to work the bugs out.
any good manuals out their on these? I can't seem to find one. All say except diesel.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2021 | 06:19 PM
  #21  
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Who needs manuals when you have Lonewolf?
I have a Chiltons. But you're not going to get everything you need . You come here.
 

Last edited by jjqllc; Jan 21, 2021 at 06:21 PM. Reason: add
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Old Jan 21, 2021 | 06:30 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by jjqllc
Who needs manuals when you have Lonewolf?
I have a Chiltons. But you're not going to get everything you need . You come here.
One thing . The tach sensor is obsolete from Ford. I don't trust aftermarket electronics on Ford vehicles due to bad experience in the past. I also know that the fanclutch and water pump are as well. Any idea if International might still have the tach sensor for the engine?
 
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Old Jan 21, 2021 | 06:32 PM
  #23  
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Old Jan 21, 2021 | 06:40 PM
  #24  
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BTW the 91 used a PSOM and they are very accurate unless tire size was changed or the Previous owner messed with the Calibration and Didn't back up the EEPROM first.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2021 | 06:46 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by lonewolf_
BTW the 91 used a PSOM and they are very accurate unless tire size was changed or the Previous owner messed with the Calibration and Didn't back up the EEPROM first.
it has Fire stone transforce HT LT245/75R16 up front and LT235/85R16 in the rear. I suspect that why. But the other problems I am having with it i want to fix so its reliable. The tach is a big one as is the oil leak I have. It leaks only on the passengers side and only when that side is at a lower angle than the driver side. I suspect the lower dipstick tube. Funny how that is still available but the tach sensor is not.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2021 | 07:03 PM
  #26  
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LOL

I can't tell exactly from the picture what connector that is ... being under or near the fuel filter maybe the Tach sender connector ...I'll have to look at my truck tomorrow..

in the mean time IF it is this connector then for sure it needs fixing as they often fry



 
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Old Jan 21, 2021 | 07:04 PM
  #27  
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The sensor doesn't have any juice running through it. Look on Rockauto. The leak is probably your valve cover gasket. Replace them so you have that out of the way. They're cheap. Could be the dipstick tube. On my 87 I put a small o ring on it and no leak. Yeah,and matching tires would be cool.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2021 | 07:08 PM
  #28  
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The two yellows go to the GP controller. All he has to do is pull them and add fusible links. Too many volts going through crappy connectors.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2021 | 07:10 PM
  #29  
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Why can't I delete a post? not the last one.this one
 

Last edited by jjqllc; Jan 21, 2021 at 07:11 PM. Reason: subtract
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Old Jan 21, 2021 | 07:25 PM
  #30  
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you can still find the OEM tach sensor E5TZ-17B384-A

Technically you could use an ABS Wheel sensor (you will have to adapt that one)

there is also Tach senders that work off the Alternator that will work too.
 
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