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I know it is always odd how others like spending other people's money, but if it were me, I would do 2x3s or 2x4s (whatever length you need) to span the steel supports on 24" centers and then it would be a breeze to shoot dry wall screws into the metal sheeting your planning on putting up, rather than trying to install the metal sheeting right to the steel supports.
It's more material cost, but in the end it will save you a ton of time / hassle / frustration than trying to drive sheet metal screws direct into the steel supports and then you'd eliminate sagging. The challenges of working over your head on a lift is one thing, but then to try to drive sheet metal screws into steel supports while holding up the metal sheeting is a whole other level of PITA.
Well. I hadn't even thought of that. That sure would make things a lot easier. I will go stare at my ceiling, take some measurements and calculate costs. This would really help on the walls as well.
Well. I hadn't even thought of that. That sure would make things a lot easier. I will go stare at my ceiling, take some measurements and calculate costs. This would really help on the walls as well.
When we put up the corrugated steel in the ceiling of our shop we used a scissor lift. My son made an "H" bracket out of 2x4s clamped to one side of the platform to hold the metal while he screwed the other end to the wood rafters. I stayed on the ground to cut panels as he called out the measurements.
BTW, I got lucky and found a used scissor lift I was able to get for $1500. The local rental place charges $100/day. If I had rented a unit I'd be under the gun to get the job done ASAP. We used the lift at least two weeks putting up electric and the tin on the walls and ceiling. Later I used it to install the ceiling furnace. I had planned to sell the lift after we were done to get most of my money back but I decided to keep it for future maintenance here at my shop and on the farm.
Why screw the panels or wood strips to the steel beams use a Hilti and shoot the panels to the beams.
With the wood you are working over head twice.
Once for the wood then the panels.
Just shoot the panels in place and move on.
Unless they have to come down later but with insulation there I dont think that's happening.
Dave ----
The pros of adding stringers
1 Not having to shave the highs on blown on insulation.
2 Backing for areas with no backing
3 Entry and exit points of electrical romex
4 Anchor points for electrical boxes that may pop up
5 Better fitment at the seams and joints {wife pleasing}
6 Faster installation of panels
The cons
1 material cost
2 Labor intensive
3 Added lift rental expense
I'm pondering stringers and wanted to go over this with my experts here.
My first thought was 2X4's between the purlins so the bottom is level with the top purlin. That seemed difficult. Then from suggestions I figured out that I would want to add my 2X4's on the bottom of the purlins. That would drop my ceiling 1.5". No big deal.
Although it might squeeze the space in the middle section with the X bracing.
I thought about maybe 1X4's instead of 2X4's but the difference in cost is so minimal that it wouldn't make sense. ($7.48 for 2X4X10 and $7.08 for 1X4X10) The distance between the three purlins on one side is 10' So the boards would go up nicely there.
That would leave a gap between the purlin closest to the wall and the wall. But there is a lip in the girt that a sheet could easily fit into for support.
Here is a picture with boxes for where the boards would go. Does this seem reasonable?
Any suggestion on attaching the boards? Long self taping screws?
I think each section would need 7 boards and there are 6 sections so 42 2X4X10 boards. Of course I will double check that.
Another thought. I just had a 24x40 metal building put up and it held a lot of heat. Two days back my cousin helped me install a roof mounted exhaust fan. With it and a cable fan it really makes a big difference in the temperature in the building now. Does yours heat up and if so you may want to install one before you cover the ceiling up.
I have had great success with these, they will pull themselves into the wood so the heads are flush woth the surface. I also suggest you turn your panel parallel to the sub purlins. You will use less lumber. You said your panels are 11ft long so your centers should be approx 5ft 6 inches, doing it this way might also allow for you to do this by yourself with the help of some clamps
An attic fan would be nice. I put up a fan on the wall. It does get hot in there. But that is out of my budget at the moment.
I hadn't thought about putting the panels the other direction. That comes with issues though. The panels are 11' long and the bay space is 13' So there may me a lot of waste of tin. Doing this I would need to measure the space between the purlins at the peak. I might need 2X4's between them as well. The harder part would be adding the lumber between the wall and the first purlin. I could use the same lip that I plan on resting the tin on....Time to do more measuring. I like the idea of less lumber. Less cost and less weight on the roof.
Although I will need three sheets to go completely across the other way and there will be some overlap there..... I need to count my sheets to see exactly how many I have.
If you can find this you could use only one self tapping screw through out the whole job. It come in 20 ft lengths, Start at the bottom and run up the pitch, when you reach the ridge you notch and bend down the return down the other side secure to the first purlin. Finish down the opposite side. Now your panels if ran horizontal will have backing at ridge. You will use the same amount of panels either way, the square footage does not change.
According to the drawings you have posted you have 4 bays at appox 13ft x 15ft 5 inches and 2 bays at 12ft x 15ft 5 inches.
Vertical Horizontal
1 13ft X 15ft 5" 10 sheets per bay 10 sheets per bay
1 12ft X 15ft 5" 9 sheets per bay 8 sheets per bay
Your 26 inch panels are figured at 24" of coverage because of the lap.
My panel usage is real rough and could be off by a couple sheets.
Using this hat track material you also could frame the vertical walls from your plywood tops to the roof line, Have no idea what the hat channel costs, last time I bought it it was considerably cheaper than wood.
