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The way it was mounted to the diff cover bolts sent too much shock through the small 5/16" bolts. In turn it hammered the differential cover causing them to loosen and start leaking diff fluid. I think a way around this is to use a solid welded plate diff cover similar to something used for off road use for the mount.
This way there is 100% bolt engagement in the housing instead of the top 2/3 bolts. May still have leaking issues due to the fact that the RTV compresses. Concept works good but not sure how well it can handle a prolonged beating.
Next plan is to likely build a bolted mount that is weldrd to the axle tubes and comes across the top of the differential. Plan to keep the traction bar and shackle in the location I have it now with a modified mount.
So an axle truss in place of the plate bolted on top of the diff cover? What if you modify what you currenty have with an additional brace that ties to the front of the diff housing up by the pinion seal?
So an axle truss in place of the plate bolted on top of the diff cover? What if you modify what you currenty have with an additional brace that ties to the front of the diff housing up by the pinion seal?
Something like that, its on my other truck so it will be revisited.
May change the title of this thread to orientate it more towards the Excursion as well since it is a "build".
Got the shackles and shocks installed. Huge improvement with off road ride quality, no more bottoming out. They are quite a bit larger than the stock shackles.
Brought the front up the perfect amount. Still a little high in the rear so I can tow a trailer without the front pointing in the air.
I noticed that I am missing one of the front bump stops and perhaps your choice of bump stops would have made a recent teeth shattering pot hole in TN less dramatic.
I wanted to thank you for sharing this find with us on the FTE and I will be ordering some this week or next.
The Excursion was missing all 4 of its bump stops. Got the new ones installed no problem. Have been spending a lot of time off road lately and the truck does awesome. The rear leaf pack is a little on the stiff side but is still smooth.
Grooved the Duratracs some more as well, they bite pretty hard.
Working on getting this thing to perform better off road. (Changing the thread title BTW). After the front end work it has been riding pretty good. Decided to stick it on a ramp and see how much suspension travel I can get out of it with the Sway Bar still attached.
A WEAK 13.5" before the pass. rear tire came off the ground.
Pulled the Sway Bar off (only has a front). Holy **** what a difference! A whopping 27.5" of suspension travel and the rear tire was still on the ground!
Thought about making a swaybar disconnect but dont see the need. This is the 3rd Super Duty based platform that I have gotten rid of the swaybars with no regrets. My F350 came with both front and rear bars, got rid of them and tow heavy with it, no regrets.
Thinking about a shackle flip in the rear along with removing 2 leafs from the pack to soften up the rear more. Will allow for more droop and stuff, still undecided.
One thing I noticed on my 2wd obs when I took off the front sway bar off the truck rode 100 times better and handles better than with the sway bar on.
I wouldn't recommend it to anyone as this is a "safety" part.
Dug around my misc. parts and had this 3.5-4" boot, will use it for connecting the low pressure turbo to the high pressure. Will reduce the 3.5" to 3" via reducer.
Redneck CAD. This is my plan for the high pressure turbo wastegate (for now). Drill and tap the compressor housing and add a 1/8" npt nipple that goes to wastegate actuator. Current actuator is a 22psi but can be change if it is too low. Similar WG setup to a Holset Hx35.
I don't see there being room under the hood on the driver side. Remounting both batteries along the frame rail may give more room but I'm not convinced it's usable room unless you're planning to move almost everything under the hood. If you try to drop the down pipe on the driver side you have to contend with the drive shaft. I've done that on a 5.0 ranger swap and it was tight with 2-1/2" pipe. I ended up having to oblong the pipe to give me a comfortable amount of clearance. I would go back to the drawing board.
@brokestroke I forget, what turbos are you going with again? You might be better off swapping the atmospheric over to the passenger side for easier downpipe routing. Since it's an Ex, you can also remount the batteries in the rear.
Also, please tell me you're going to stick those drawings up on the fridge with magnets.
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Got the new ones installed no problem. Have been spending a lot of time off road lately and the truck does awesome. The rear leaf pack is a little on the stiff side but is still smooth.
