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I have to give credit to USAA, they're the ones who I got it from years ago.
We have been with USAA for almost 25 years now and they have been and continue to be very good to us.
GFML!
The sun is fully out and the ATOTO A6 Pro is up and running with a switch in the 12v accessory wire. I am installing the updates, applications and customizing the interface.
EDIT: 28.5 seconds from flipping the switch to on after hooking up power, I could navigate through the display. After turning the unit off from being on for a moment, turning it back on the display was ready in 1 second.
I made a very rudimentary spreadsheet for the proposed, current and competitor dash cameras that were in my line of sight.
I first considered what I knew and already have in the truck after using the KDLinks X1 dashcam for the past several years. As seen above, the KDLinks X1 has a 1080p/30FPS camera and has done a good job at keeping the field of view through the windshield recorded. At timestamp 30:00 below in the video, I have clear view of what is happening in the light of day on a test run after installing an upgraded turbo.
I have set the video to start at 30:00 if anyone is interested in seeing the KDLinks X1 in action during the daytime.
I then decided to see what other dashcams that were limited to 30FPS were seeing and if there was much of a difference between 30 FPS and 60 FPS in a real world application.
The image below is taken from a YouTube channel by BC Hobbyist and I could tell a difference, but not to the point where I was saying "oh ya, I need a 60 FPS camera".
***Note: If you watch the video by BC Hobbyist, please ensure that the resolution is set to 1080p HD by clicking on the cog in the lower right of the window.***
Now that I have surmised from my own video footage and from the footage by BC Hobbyist that 30 FPS was probably good enough during the daytime, I needed to figure out if 30 FPS was good enough during low light situations. I don't typically drive my truck at night, but it can and does happen occasionally. I drive like I have nowhere to be and that place that I don't need to be to can wait until the sun comes up, during most cases.
I found our good friend Vladimir Lolinco on YouTube and he was kind enough to upload a 1080p 30 FPS video while driving at night on different occasions.
If anyone is interested in seeing the video, it is linked below. Just be mindful that he has music from his stereo and even has a phone conversation during part of the video. Watch the volume level!
Vladimir was kind enough to show me that even during low light situations and in the city a 1080p 30 FPS camera is good enough for my application. The camera resolution and FPS for my application may not be good enough for someone else, but there is something to be said about Blackvue offering a new model (in the spreadsheet above) with 1080p and 60 FPS for the front camera and 30 FPS for the rear camera. A camera like the Blackvue would work with the ATOTO A6 Pro once an Android app was downloaded and installed, but the price is beyond my scope of utility.
Because the ATOTO AC-44P2 is cheap at $45, designed to work with the integrated app on the ATOTO A6 Pro and can store hours worth of HD video on a 128GB card that costs $17, that makes it very appealing. For just over $60, I can have a dashcam for the truck and move the current dashcam from the truck to the Subaru and be done with it. There is a price that is put on simplicity and ease of use at times and that price sometimes outweighs the burden of going deeper into the rabbit hole.
Now on to figuring out how to get a wireless charger into the little compartment I have circled in yellow below...
***Not my image***
This is where I normally store my phone when driving the truck and I would like to have the ability to slip the phone in there with the face up and it be charging wirelessly. Since I have a LifeProof case on my phone, I don't suspect that a Qi wireless charging signal would pass through the phone case and the plastic of the dash bezel in order to charge the phone. That is yet to be tested...
I could use something like this Scosche cradle like we have in our Subaru in order to bring it out of 2008 and into the 2020 era, but I prefer to have a clean and simplistic dashboard. The Schoshe cradle works great in the Subaru and we use it to travel the country and if I need to install one in the truck I will, but I am looking to get outside of the box on this.
More to follow even though that was WAAAAAAAAY more than 10 paragraphs....
I am creating this post from the Android ATOTO A6 Pro head unit and the speech to text feature.
After fine tuning the settings and applications I am very happy with the purchase. Sometimes my big fingers have a difficult time pushing a little button or link, but I can change the font and buttons to two sizes larger from normal to huge if I need to. In addition, once I am using this in the truck instead of on my kitchen table I will only be using the large buttons and the common and easy to access features of those buttons and applications.
This head unit is very much like a smartphone in the way it needs to be set up and has access to the Google Play store and all the applications that reside there. Once I signed into the Google Play store and downloaded all of my apps that I wanted to, set up was quite easy.
Here is a screenshot of the home screen as I have it set and ready to go in the truck.
I disconnected the ATOTO A6 Pro from battery power at about 1900 last night just after posting the screen shot above. The ATOTO A6 Pro (thankfully) remembered all of its settings and customized features that I set up yesterday. I was very pleased to see this. When I reconnected the ground, I started the stopwatch immediately after that and it took 43 seconds for the display to be ready for navigation from the user. It took another 10 seconds for the WiFi to reconnect. So, within 60 seconds from being totally disconnected the head unit is ready to go.
Keep in mind, when the key/ignition is turned off, the ATOTO goes into a sleep mode and turns back on or is ready for display navigation within 1 second. The Website claims 2 seconds, but I feel it is faster than that, almost instantly from the time I flip the small 12v switch in the wiring which simulates the ignition cylinder.
I wrote ATOTO support at 0944 yesterday morning after finding the box soaked from the rain storm the night before. I politely asked for a soft copy or link to the "Owner's Manual" in case the freezer trick provided by Mark did not work. They replied back this morning at 0445 with a link and their appreciation for the order. They also mentioned that they were glad the stereo was working well despite sitting in the rain all night.
I was chatting with BWST a bit yesterday since he has one of these set up in his Yukon. I am not sure if I like the background to the icons/shortcuts in the bottom of the screen. From left to right the buttons are...
BT Phone ---- Radio ---- Brave Web Browser ---- All Apps ---- Pandora ---- FORScan ---- Google Maps
These are customizable just like a smartphone display is. Although, there are some limitations on the colors built into the operating system or the "launcher" that ATOTO uses. BWST told me about some custom launchers which are free or cost a small fee to install and use. I have not decided to go this route quite yet, but it is worth a consideration. Launchers like Nova, Agama, Car Launcher Pro, Carwebgurus, etc... A couple of images are below of what they can do, but they are HIGHLY customizable.
I plan to use the ATOTO launcher for a while at least as I prefer the minimalist look of the subdued American flag in the background and the row of buttons along the bottom. I have everything set up as much as I can right now on my kitchen table and will be ordering the dash camera and 128GB MicroSD today or tomorrow. I will then set those up on the table and find out how they work so that when I get the head unit into the truck I will be familiar with the operation of the device and only need to sort out the rear view camera being on all the time. The rear view camera is already powered all the time, I just don't know which video input to use quite yet on the ATOTO.
I will also get the head unit mounted to the dash the SkySkiJason method which is also similar to the method that BWST posted above.
I plan to move my FORScan profile from my Android tablet over to the ATOTO A6 Pro in an effort to simply load it with the push of a couple of buttons instead of having to set things up again, but we will see. If that works as I think it will, I will update the FORScan/FORScan Lite Class and Q&A thread created by BWST.
The proposed location for a wireless charger in the image below measures 1.75"H x 7"W x 5"D.
The available space should provide adequate space for a 12v wireless charging non-slip mat to be installed using one of the rear USB cables from the ATOTO A6 Pro. So far, my top two choices for wireless charging are below.
It measures 6.7"W and 3.7"D and remembering the space constraints are 1.75"H x 7"W x 5"D. Height is not a real factor as the charging pad is thin and the Samsung S7 in a Lifeproof case is also thin. The POLMXS pad has a non-slip surface on the underside, but I also have some VHB 3M double-side thin foam reinforced tape in my inventory of crap. The top surface of the charging pad is clearly non-slip and designed for use on dashboard or center consoles. The USB cord leaves the charging pad at the bottom, which would be pointed toward the steering wheel or the head unit and going through a small hole in the bezel in order to hide the wires from the head unit and charging pad out of sight.
The depth of the charging pad indicates that there will be an extra 1.3" - 1" of space in the back of the space in the bezel. I have some semi-rigid phone used in creating custom gun case cut outs and may insert a 1"D x 2"H piece of foam into the space in order to aid in the non-slip function of the pad while driving down the road. By moving the charging pad toward the front of the bezel and to the driver, I will have a somewhat decent view of the screen on the phone at a glance in order to verify the "charging" light is illuminated. At least until I can trust the charging pad.
At $22, I believe this is a solid contender to get the job done. I would prefer a charging pad with multiple coils, but they do not seem to be in popular demand in a 12v configuration. I have seen many that require an AC 120v supply though.
It measures 4.5"W and 3.8"D and remembering the space constraints are 1.75"H x 7"W x 5"D. With this wireless charging pad I would most definitely need the semi-rigid gun case foam in the rear and possibly on one side. Since this pad does not have a true non-slip surface on the top where the phone sits, I may have to create a wedge of some sort in order to bring it to a more horizontal and level angle. The cubby hole space is at a slight angle. The wave pattern on the pad are somewhat non-slip though and we are familiar with them. The CLEOTECH brand is what we have been using at the house and camper in several locations for many years now, at least the last 4 years. They are reliable and work very well.
The bottom of the charging pad has 4 small rubber feet, but they look to be easily removable if I decided to use VHB 3M double-side thin foam reinforced tape in order to hold it in place better. Also, the microUSB connector would require a smaller hole to be drilled into the bezel. The LED on the pad is not bright at all and would present a "charging condition" very easily. If needed, I could reduce the output of the light with a semi-transparent tinting procedure.
This pad also has 3 coils in it instead of the one and a light on the front corner to indicate if it is functioning properly. The charging pad must be plugged into a "quick charge" USB adapter when used in an automobile. Luckily the ATOTO A6 Pro has a quick charge USB cable as one of its two available cables.
There is a silver bezel around the CHEOTECH, but I can easily paint that with plasti-dip or matte black paint.
At $17 with a 15% off instant coupon it seems like a solid choice as well.
Neither of these is required, but a nicety that I have grown accustomed to when charging my phone at the house or when camping. I have a wired fast charger and 2 additional USB outlets that provide a fast charge, but I am lazy at times and prefer to just set the phone down and let it do it's thing. Charging capability is key for my application in the truck as I plan to use the WiFi hotspot feature on the phone in order to for the ATOTO A6 Pro to run live maps and stream music, podcasts or audio books while traveling. The ATOTO A6 Pro is capable of running FORScan, Google Maps and a podcast from YouTube at the same time. I usually don't have any sort of audio in the truck when traveling less than 6 hours or so, but as we prepare for our next trip cross country to the northwest and back to GA via the southwest, I may like to do so. Especially when we get out in WY, MT or SD.
I am getting a bit closer to having the head unit project planned out and purchased.
For years, I’ve wanted to design something for the panty hanger/ash tray space. Like a modular insert that contains a small inverter and Edison plug???
I thought about installing a small inverter, but after parts and installation supplies costs, it was cost prohibitive for my application.
I ended up placing an order today and got 15% off one piece and 50% off another. I will post the list later for anyone that is looking to do something similar or for future readers.
I have been looking for a deal on the OBDLink MX or OBDLink MX+. Based on the savings already realized by shopping at opportune times, the dashcam is free and the 256GB microSD card was free.
I have an ashtray instead if the panty hanger and use it to store miscellaneous small items. Your idea might be a hood kick start for someone else though and I appreciate you sharing it here.
I’ve had a little inverter like this in the truck forever. It’s just ugly sitting on the floor... I needed it to run laptop and printer in the truck for old job, but you’d be surprised how often you’d use AC power if you had it.
I’ve had a little inverter like this in the truck forever. It’s just ugly sitting on the floor... I needed it to run laptop and printer in the truck for old job, but you’d be surprised how often you’d use AC power if you had it.
A pure/true sine wave inverter should be used for sensitive electronic equipment like laptops. Modified sine wave can damage the power supply of said equipment. Chances are it would be fine, but there is a chance of damaging the device with a sub-par inverter.
We have 120v in the Subaru which we have owned since 2010 and driven cross country in it from GA to ID and back 6 or more times. Never really needed the 120v power that I can remember. We have 120v power in the Escape, but since it is only used for short trips, we never had the need for it. That is not to say we wouldn't enjoy using, just saying we haven't needed to for the past 11 years of traveling.
Before we owned the Subaru, we had a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee. If we wanted to use a laptop in the vehicle during traveling like when we were on a 10,000 mile trip around the country. We used a 12v power supply plugged into the cigarette lighter. Most all modern laptops and and even older laptops had 12v power supplies available for purchase. In modern times, tablets and phones are replacing laptops for a lot of functions.
The truck has a small 7" netbook that I installed windows 7 on. It stays under the passenger seat and has the FSM on it and FORScan. It also has a 6 hour battery, but would require a 120v source to be charged.
The camper has a 2000w pure sine wave inverter, 400w solar, 500ah of battery power and a 2500w generator. So, for my application, installing a small inverter is not the right move. 90% of the time the truck is rolling down the road, the camper is strapped to it. If I absolutely need a 120v power source, I have plenty of it to use.
120v power and inverters can be a good purchase and use for some, but I don't see the value in my application. I am trying to minimize the gadgets and things in the cab. For example I will be getting an additional OBDLink MX in order to leave it in the truck for use by the ATOTO A6 Pro. I don't want to have to remember to plug in the scan tool just in case I might want to use it.
One main reason I am installing the ATOTO A6 Pro is because I want FORScan in the dash and running with the push of one soft button. I don't want to travel with my tablet sitting on the passenger seat anymore.
Leonard, you can run Apple CarPlay on these, at least I am pretty sure you can. With the Android version, you can run FORScan Lite and whatever other applications transcend the Apple to Android universes. Why does the device need to be Apple iOS?
I haven't seen any iOS head units out there, but I wasn't really looking either since I don't use Apple products.
I made a couple more purchases last night in order to progress the project.
This is my current spreadsheet of costs versus savings:
I am hunting and on the lookout to find the OBDLink MX/MX+ on sale, but have not been lucky enough to find one yet. I made a couple of offers on eBay, but no takers yet. I feel that the project is progressing nicely and I will have an easy to use and very informative setup around Christmas.
Below is a list of the items I have purchased for those interested. I have received a couple of PM's asking for specifics about what items I decide on, so instead of sending multiple PM's, I will post them here.
