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I used an exhaust gasket during my drivers side leak repair. It has around 30k with no known leak.
I’m planning on using one during the passenger side repair. This may be a mistake because I definitely respect SSJ’s opinion/experience but believe this is the route I’m taking for now. Unless the manifold needs changed then I’ll skip the gasket.
I respect all your opinions mainly cause this is all new to me. I'm assuming Jason has a professional shop because he is always talking about customers. Lots of experience there. I'm watching and reading as much as I have time for and I know I ask a lot of questions because I don't like to do things twice or ruin something that could have been avoided. Anyway I watched a video where a guy used copper RTV because his were pitted like mine. Now i never would like to use RTV in high temp areas like exhaust always concerned that it would burn off. Doing all this work and $ to get everything sealed up (hopefully for a long time) to get as much boost as possible.
@GotAll4 , the only thing you can do is sleep on it and go with whatever your heart tells you is the correct path. If it turns out not to be, so be it and you will recover knowing that you did what you felt was right in your heart. If it turns out to be right, then you can go on with your life knowing you made the right call based on what you heart told you to do.
My wife and I are firm believers in things like karma and going with your gut instinct. Also, when making a decision, one choice will give you more peace than the other and the more peaceful choice is the one you should make. Even if you feel it might be wrong in the back of your mind, go with peace...
Got my ceramic coated manifold and bolts back today. hopefully a cheap $90 insurance policy. Took a quick second and placed it on the head and there is a bit of a rocking to it. Don't know if that is normal and will come out with torquing? Anyway last piece of the puzzle and plan on assembling next week.
I could see with a straight edge that one of my ports was lower than the others. The gap was MUCH smaller than the gasket though so I went for it. So far it has sealed up and is holding. I know some more knowledgeable members do not like the gaskets and I respect their opinion and feel they are probably right. But for now it is working for me.
I did torque inside-out multiple times in increments up to final torque. Then multiple at final torque. Then let it idle and torque again with idling and some heat in the manifold. Was this the right thing to do? I have no idea but it’s working for now. I’m not making recommendations here, just sharing my recent experience.
When I was in small engine repair classes back in high school (1970) we were taught that when torquing say 1 bolt at 18 ft lbs set your wrench at 18 and go for it. 2 bolts you'd divide by 2 so 2 times first at 9 ft lbs second at full torque. 3 bolts or more divide by 3 in this case 6 ft lbs increments so 6 then 12 then 18 ft lbs.
I am going to use a straight edge and see if I can measure the gap. then Ill decide what to do. "If" I go the gasket route I'm torn of ether making my own copper ones or I see those graphite ones on Full Force diesel site. Don't know anything about graphite gaskets so some incite would be helpful. also locally what has been suggested was to use some hi temp copper gasket RTV sealer.
I forgot to order a EGT gauge and while the manifold is out I was planning to drill and tape the manifold for the probe. Are all of them the same size hole and thread so I can for now drill, tap and plug?
I don’t see copper anything holding up in that environment.
There is absolutely no sealant that will survive there. Lol.
The manifold and head should be FLAT. I have had a machine shop true manifolds for me. I’m sure the manifold can flex a little, but if the ‘gap’ is larger at that cylinder, that’s where I expect the gasket to fail first.
I think that Torque procedure is perfect and checking them again after some full temp runs should not hurt.
I agree with SSJ about sealant not standing the heat. And I would actually be less likely to run the graphite gasket than the Felpro metal coated ones I’m using. Not that I have anything to base this on besides just my gut feeling.
And I also agree any warpage is not ideal and I will be watching the one cylinder for gasket blow out. But when looking at the gap compared to my gasket it was very small. I opted for the easy way out for now which I may regret later. But my drivers side has been holding up for years.
I really think a retorque during or after heat cycle will help. Again, not advising you here just stating what I’ve done lately.
Did a quick check today between rains. The manifold is completely flat. The wobble is in the head. Used my tool in the pic and placing it between 1&2 no wobble. (actually don't know Fords cylinder order) Between 2&3 and doing it backwards 3&2 I get between 4 & 6 thousands. 3&4 are fine. Don't have a straight edge yet to place between all 4.
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