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I can't answer that. I was not concerned about it when I bought the truck. Connections were hiding under cross-members anyway. I just saw that they were not going to be wrenched off so I cut them off and discarded them.
Seems to me they were designed to keep constant spring pressure on the joint connection. If it's not a big deal I was hoping to just throw in two 3/8 x 3" bolts in there and be done. Looks like the rest of the system will last for a couple of years so for now I'll need to save the $300 for a new steering box.
Hear"s what I was talking about. OReilly's had it. 10mm bolt reduced to 8mm creates a shoulder keeps constant pressure on the connection. I was in one of my Ford dealers today and had him look up the exhaust system and it shows the bolts part of the forward piece.
Hard to believe the difference between the two manifolds. Passenger side just has rust pits all over but no deterioration of the bolts. Don't know if it was the right thing to do but I blasted the surface lightly and painted it with a 2k degree manifold paint.
Dropped the tank tonight to do the hutch and harpoon mods. I had a discussion with someone here that thought it might have already been done because I'm down below 1/8th tank and no problems with fuel pick up. Here everything inside has been replaced with new in OEM set up. I watched a video of a tech doing a hutch mode and he showed how he did his back 16 years ago where you remove the filters, extend the pick up with a 90* bend past the float for the gauge. You put it on the bottom of the tank. I was going to do that but know that I have a new pick up foot I'll probably do the newer version. Wonder why whey chance it?
Also found more corroded parts. Metal filler neck has a hole in it and looks like a vent tube of some kind was completely corroded off.
The pickup foot will deteriorate and fall off eventually. Replace it with a piece of tubing with a 90* bend that rests on the bottom of the tank and you’ll never have to go back in there.
Replace the filters with a WIX 33972 just before pump the way I do in the In-tank and pre-pump mod write up I did (in the tech folder).
The tube laying on top of the tank fell off when I removed the tank. Looks like it goes from the vent on the top up to the frame into a metal pipe which is completely corroded along with the rubber hoses that
are cracked and falling apart. Ford was no help and if I wanted that part I had to buy an entire tank. Where does this go and what does it do?
So they should connect from one vent on top of the tank side to the other vent on the other side? There was a 1/2" tube that went along the frame and was secured by those plastic clips but it was heavily corroded and fell apart in my hand. Looked like maybe the rubber hose went up and connected to it then ran down the frame for a couple of feet and into the other vent hose which still had some of the corroded metal tubing left in it. Don't under stand why there needs to equalize the tank. There are no baffles in it or is it because there are no baffles? That will play with your declining minds! LOL
Maybe if the tank is full and your on a large incline that fuels got to go some where or maybe it helps unlock a possible vacuum lock in that situation? There is a vent tube just below the fill cap for the tank.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
